Is it safe to vent my insert straight up my chimney without any elbows or bends? I thought this would be unsafe as the creasote may run srtaight down on top of the fiberboard and create a fire hazard....Please advise as any help is wonderful!
This is a can I do this question....
- Thread starter confused dude
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1 - Where is the fiberboard?? What is it?
2 - When operating properly, creosote should be minimal and definitely not the gooey, dripping, liquid kind.
What kind of insert, chimney, liner???
2 - When operating properly, creosote should be minimal and definitely not the gooey, dripping, liquid kind.
What kind of insert, chimney, liner???
Of course it is completely safe to go straight up! If you're burning right, there will not be any liquid creosote to drip onto the fiberboard!
Thanks for the responses so far!! I am new to the woodburning world and very "Dumb" with some of the stuff! It is a rigid 6 inch pipe up the existing masonary chimney and the said fiberboard is an insulation directly inside the top vent on my englander wood burning insert.
Venting straight up with no elbows is the ideal situation, and most are unable to. if you can, absolutely go for it!
As a side note, I don't consider it a "hazard" when the fire is in the firebox! :coolsmile:
As a side note, I don't consider it a "hazard" when the fire is in the firebox! :coolsmile:
Thanks everyone
I was just concered with the creasote getting on top of that fiberboard which is actually the fire box! But based on the responses here it seems this may very well be an ideal option! Now if I can talk my wife into believing that it looks great without a pretty faceplate then I will be all set!!
I was just concered with the creasote getting on top of that fiberboard which is actually the fire box! But based on the responses here it seems this may very well be an ideal option! Now if I can talk my wife into believing that it looks great without a pretty faceplate then I will be all set!!
confused dude said:
Not only is a straight up chimney safe, it is generally considered to be the preferred method when possible as there are no elbows to restrict draft which is the "engine" which drives the fire and an added benefit is the ease of sweeping the chimney with no elbows.
Most stoves and inserts are set up so that they either vent out the back or top (but these are generally located towards the back of the stove) and in either case . . . burning well seasoned wood and cleaning the chimney will prevent cresote from coming down on to the baffle board . . . more to the point, when you've got creosote running down the stove pipe (and not just the dry popcorn-like, potato chip-like or dust-like build up) you've reached the point where you've got a serious problem -- either water is penetrating your chimney, you're burning at temps far too cool for your stove or your wood is way, way underseasoned.
Confused Dude - Are you running regular black stove pipe up the chimney or are you running Stainless Steal Rigid pipe up?
Are you the pipe all the way up the chimney or just enough to get passed the damper?
Are you the pipe all the way up the chimney or just enough to get passed the damper?
Are you sure it's fiberboard? What I think is fiberboard is actually a flammable material. I would be surprised if it were used on top of a stove/insert
The fiberboard is a baffle inside the stove and intended to take the heat. Any creosote that falls on it will burn safely. In fact, having a straight up is the safest way to go. If there is any creosote that builds up on the flue, dries, curls, and drops down, if is immediately burned rather than collecting in a Tee or elbow to be ignited later.
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