Tiling questions

[begreen]

We have a couple of projects that need to get done this year. The first is tiling the first floor bathroom. There is currently linoleum down. Can this be tiled over?
The second project involves the other bathroom shower. It was built and tiled 20 yrs ago. After about 10 yrs, mold started showing up in the grout, especially in the shower pan, in spite of always squeegeeing down the walls after ever shower. We attacked it with aggressive bleaching and cleaning and that worked for a few years. Then about 4 yrs ago I had to attack it again, this time with power brushes, bleaching, hydrogen peroxide, and baking soda. After that it was sealed with a high end sealant. Fast forward to now and the damn stuff is back. We've had it and are seeking a remedy. We are even ready to tear out the lower tile and replace if there are modern solutions or grouts that work better. Or is this an inevitable problem with grout in a wet area? Solutions?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I think you’ll have to either pull up the linoleum or cover it over with Hardie.

If you like the tile, why not scrape it out and regrout?

 

[bogieb]

Although you can tile over linoleum, there are special processes that need to be done in order to get the bond right. And, I'm not so sure it would last as the linoleum would probably shrink and expand at a different rate than the tile/grout. Linoleum should be fairly easy to remove, especially if it is floating, so in that case I would remove it.

Now, if it is those self stick squares, that is a huge PITA to remove (I know personally). IF you believe that the wood below is in good shape and can bear the weight, it might be worth it to think about tiling over. I removed the self stick tiles that were in the bathroom when I bought this house. First and foremost was that the bathroom stunk during summer (hot and humid weather) - apparently a certain older guy couldn't hit the toilet while standing and refused to sit down to reduce the mess. Those squares WILL eventually absorb nasty stuff. Once I got the squares up, I could tell the top layer of wood wasn't in good shape in about a 3x4 area in front of the toilet so replaced that section.

 

[EbS-P]

We have a couple of projects that need to get done this year. The first is tiling the first floor bathroom. There is currently linoleum down. Can this be tiled over?
The second project involves the other bathroom shower. It was built and tiled 20 yrs ago. After about 10 yrs, mold started showing up in the grout, especially in the shower pan, in spite of always squeegeeing down the walls after ever shower. We attacked it with aggressive bleaching and cleaning and that worked for a few years. Then about 4 yrs ago I had to attack it again, this time with power brushes, bleaching, hydrogen peroxide, and baking soda. After that it was sealed with a high end sealant. Fast forward to now and the damn stuff is back. We've had it and are seeking a remedy. We are even ready to tear out the lower tile and replace if there are modern solutions or grouts that work better. Or is this an inevitable problem with grout in a wet area? Solutions?

I would start the shower by regrouting. Will the epoxy paint bath restoration companies spray over tile??

I’m a big fan of LVP. You can get any style you want. My parents put down some that looks like marble and it looks good.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I epoxied the 20+ year old fiberglass shower surround in a rental we sold last year. 2 kits from HD transformed a weird mustard color to a really impressive white! I think it cost around $40 to do.

I have no idea on the durability. Nobody showered in it until after I sold the place.

The countertop epoxies from Rustoleum are pretty impressive too, but they blotch a little with water on them. I wouldn’t put them in a shower.

 

[Prometeo]

I reccomend regrout by mapei

KERACOLOR U UNSANDED GROUT​

mixed with

UltraCare Grout Maximizer​

if the grouts are very thin as I imagine. Dig them out as much as possible before regrout.

 

[blades]

if mold keeps coming back then you have issues with the support structure behind the tile. typical construction wood be drywall over studs, but back in the day that was not a water proof dry wall board. Tiled counter tops suffer the same symptoms mostly because the tile was just grouted down on plywood no provisions made for water proofing . I have had five homes over the years , 3 kitchens and 8 baths redone- sure am tired of it-
walls, floors, counter, tops, & plumbing( realy realy dislike the plumbing ). Current place only had to pull one leaking stool seal ring, & cheated on the on the modular? shower assembly which had a cracked floor - clear epoxy solved that for now. someone else can have the Fun? of replacing that as it sits in a alcove. If the valve goes south then it will be a some what major renovation as the is no rear side access to it. It will require demoing two walls and part of the ceiling to replace.

 

[begreen]

if mold keeps coming back then you have issues with the support structure behind the tile. typical construction wood be drywall over studs, but back in the day that was not a water proof dry wall board. Tiled counter tops suffer the same symptoms mostly because the tile was just grouted down on plywood no provisions made for water proofing . I have had five homes over the years , 3 kitchens and 8 baths redone- sure am tired of it-
walls, floors, counter, tops, & plumbing( realy realy dislike the plumbing ). Current place only had to pull one leaking stool seal ring, & cheated on the on the modular? shower assembly which had a cracked floor - clear epoxy solved that for now. someone else can have the Fun? of replacing that as it sits in a alcove. If the valve goes south then it will be a some what major renovation as the is no rear side access to it. It will require demoing two walls and part of the ceiling to replace.

The support structure was cement board, coated with 4 layers of a thick black sealing medium designed for wet area tiling. The issue appears to be that the grout is porous in spite of being sealed.

 

[begreen]

If you like the tile, why not scrape it out and regrout?

The bottom section is 2x2 tiles. Lots of grout.

 

[begreen]

I’m a big fan of LVP. You can get any style you want. My parents put down some that looks like marble and it looks good.

I showed my wife LVP options and she said no go. I wanted to put down marmoleum tiles (Forbo), but she was lukewarm on this due to the 12" sized squares. It's a long narrow bathroom and she wants 6" tiles.

 

[EbS-P]

I showed my wife LVP options and she said no go. I wanted to put down marmoleum tiles (Forbo), but she was lukewarm on this due to the 12" sized squares. It's a long narrow bathroom and she wants 6" tiles.

I wouldn’t give up yet. There are LVT options like these.
Chevron Blackstone/Satin 0.05-mil x 20-in W x 20-in L Water Resistant Interlocking Luxury Vinyl Tile Flooring (16.7-sq ft/ Carton) https://www.lowes.com/pd/Perfection...-Commercial-Residential-Vinyl-Tile/1002513628

 

[begreen]

I wouldn’t give up yet. There are LVT options like these.
Chevron Blackstone/Satin 0.05-mil x 20-in W x 20-in L Water Resistant Interlocking Luxury Vinyl Tile Flooring (16.7-sq ft/ Carton) https://www.lowes.com/pd/Perfection...-Commercial-Residential-Vinyl-Tile/1002513628

Thanks. We've looked at a ton of options and she has rejected most. I have found a few LVT she will maybe accept, but it's a short list.

 

[EbS-P]

Thanks. We've looked at a ton of options and she has rejected most. I have found a few LVT she will maybe accept, but it's a short list.

Remind her how much warmer it feels under foot than tile

 

[begreen]

We have tile in the primary bathroom. She's never complained about floor temp.

 

[EbS-P]

We have tile in the primary bathroom. She's never complained about floor temp.

Then she doesn’t know what she’s missing out on all kidding aside it’s a very noticeable difference. Feels 8 degrees warmer. (If I Had to put a number on it)

 

[blades]

Grout I have always used has been fortified with what ever to make it non pourous. I know you can get just the fortifier by itself to add to the grout, doesn't change the color. makes it water proof. Could be acrylic based don't remember.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Then she doesn’t know what she’s missing out on all kidding aside it’s a very noticeable difference. Feels 8 degrees warmer. (If I Had to put a number on it)

Yes, but you’re a guy. To a lady it would only feel 6.275 degrees warmer. The thermostat would still have to be bumped up almost 2 degrees. Lol

 

[EbS-P]

Yes, but you’re a guy. To a lady it would only feel 6.275 degrees warmer. The thermostat would still have to be bumped up almost 2 degrees. Lol

The guy who insisted that we pay for the in floor electric heat in the master bath.

 

[DuaeGuttae]

Then she doesn’t know what she’s missing out on all kidding aside it’s a very noticeable difference. Feels 8 degrees warmer. (If I Had to put a number on it)

That is the reason we chose to have LVT in our bathrooms and kitchen in the specifications for our new build. I got so tired of cold, hard tile on our floors in Texas. I do prefer the aesthetics of porcelain tile, so I understand where is your wife is coming from, @begreen . There are more choices of shapes and size. I was told just the other day at the tile distributor when we were picking shower tile that “grout has come a long way in the past twenty years.” There are apparently products that are more mold and mildew resistant these days, but I didn’t get any names because she told me that was a conversation to have with the installer.

I’m curious about the linoleum in your first-floor bath that you mentioned. Is it actual real linoleum made out of linseed oil, or is it a vinyl product that’s just called linoleum? I’m afraid that I don’t know the answer to the question about tiling over either, but I’m always curious when someone mentions having a linoleum floor.

 

[Tonty]

I would not tile directly to a linoleum or vinyl floor. Best way would be to take out existing floor covering and underlayment (if there is), install hardi-backer, then tile.

 

[Prometeo]

those plastic products pollute the air inside the house

 

[Wooden Head]

those plastic products pollute the air inside the house

?

 

[Prometeo]

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/The-concentration-VOCs-emissions-for-linoleum-flooring-over-time-The-emissions-of-VOCs_fig3_347270442

 

[EbS-P]

https://www.researchgate.net/figure/The-concentration-VOCs-emissions-for-linoleum-flooring-over-time-The-emissions-of-VOCs_fig3_347270442

Study not went out to 100 hours. We live in these houses for years. I’m guessing cooking has a much larger negative VOC impact on health than a bathroom with an exhaust fan that could easily ventilate the space for the first week or two after install. Have you looked at the VOCs in paint?

 

[Prometeo]

Study not went out to 100 hours. We live in these houses for years. I’m guessing cooking has a much larger negative VOC impact on health than a bathroom with an exhaust fan that could easily ventilate the space for the first week or two after install. Have you looked at the VOCs in paint?

Homes are now full of polluting things, sometimes we simply don't consider this when we choose materials. A bathroom won't make a difference but if I have this knowledge I can choose with more criteria. I ordered PVC windows, now I wouldn't do it again. Luckily I haven't ordered paint yet, I was choosing a plastic-based type, I'll get a glass-based one instead. If I'm not mistaken you also indicated in another thread that the air in the house should be changed several times in a day, I am convinced that a greater awareness of materials can improve this aspect, for the benefit of health.