Tips for working with this non-EPA stove WITHOUT adjustable air intake (before I go mad)?

[WinterBeach]

Hi all-- I'm not brand-new to heating with wood, but it has been 25 years, and that stove had almost NOTHING in common with this thing. It was a German ceramic stove, which kept the whole house warm all day while using the most minimal wood (plus my wood was extremely dense European hardwood, and my walls were like 4 feet thick).

What I'm working with now feels like child's toy compared to that, but I'm down for the challenge (especially since I have no choice-- I'm renting and this is the stove that is installed.)

That said, it is DRIVING ME MAD to not be able to limit the air intake and solely use this built-in flue damper!! I am burning through wood so quickly as I try to get familiar with the stove before things actually get cold. ALL TIPS WELCOME. I've read through the forums, but not too many posts with this sort of constant airtake situation. Can I bolt something over the holes to reduce the airflow? Or are their issues I am not anticipating? This setup just seems completely bonkers and I cannot understand the logic. Why on earth would there be a bunch of holes just constantly drawing in air? What are my best practices with this thing? What can I do to increase burn time? I know it's a trade-off with creosote formation, but I cannot have this thing running through wood full-pelt like this with all the heat escaping through the flue.

Lastly, my place is only about 400sf but it has high vaulted ceilings and gigantic drafty windows that I will be weatherizing with plastic sheeting to the best of my ability, but it's still not ideal. I'll be heating exclusively with wood. Any tips welcome!

 

[Todd]

Get rid of it and find a small EPA approved stove. Till then try covering the holes with magnets.

 

[WinterBeach]

Get rid of it and find a small EPA approved stove. Till then try covering the holes with magnets.

Trust me, I would if I could. But I 100% cannot replace it. I have to live with this thing for this winter at least. Maybe next year I can convince the landlord to let me switch things up.

Also, I thought magnets have a fairly low temperature limit.

 

[WinterBeach]

Also does anyone have thoughts about top-down fires in this stove, given the constant air intake? My understanding is they only make sense in the context of EPA stoves, and that my air intake will be burning things up too quickly anyway.

 

[begreen]

Yes, that stove will eat wood like candy. It's just a step above a fireplace with a door.
Maybe experiment with some wads of aluminum foil in some of the holes to see if that regulates the fire better?

Is it legal to rent out a place with a woodstove as the sole heat source?

 

[Todd]

Trust me, I would if I could. But I 100% cannot replace it. I have to live with this thing for this winter at least. Maybe next year I can convince the landlord to let me switch things up.

Also, I thought magnets have a fairly low temperature limit.

Magnet Source® 1-7/8" x 7/8" Ceramic Block Magnet - 2 Count

These rectangular blocks are perfect for do-it-yourself projects like making your own magnets. Glue them to the back of any light to medium weight item and place on refrigerators, lockers, whiteboards, or any ferrous metal surface. Perfect for home, school, and office use, these hard ceramic...

www.menards.com

This is what I use to partially block my secondary air.

 

[gthomas785]

To control the fire you either limit the air or limit the fuel. Use fewer/larger pieces of wood. Don't stuff it full. Yes, you will be feeding it more often, think of it like an open fireplace.

As for limiting the air. Be aware that restricting the air intake will lead to incomplete combustion which will cause smoke, creosote, and lower overall efficiency. Nevertheless, many people find it desirable to limit the heat output by choking the fire down to increase the time between reloads. If your flue damper is closed all the way and it's still sucking too much air, try adding a second or more solid flue damper. Or do as the others have suggested and wad up some tinfoil or ceramic wool in the intake holes.

 

[Hoytman]

Aluminum foil in some intakes will help as will pipe damper or two, but make sure those pipe dampers have holes in them. Do NOT even consider solid pipe dampers…as they’re creosote accidents waiting to happen.

As some others mentioned, amounts of wood as well as size of wood pieces will help you regulate the temperature. On cold starts top down fired are your friend. Near impossible for a top down fire on a bed of red hot coals, so just add a piece or two.

Plan on waking up a lot at night to feed that stove and be prepared to buy a moisture meter to check moisture content of wood supply … you’ll want that wood as dry as you can possibly get it somewhere below 18% and preferably much dryer if you can get it there.

Also be prepared to have a chimney cleaning brush and to use it at least once monthly throughout the winter, or have someone inspect and sweep it for you monthly. Obviously, it’s cheaper to do it yourself.

 

[begreen]

Looks like there's a damper already on the stove pipe. That's the primary control.

@WinterBeach is there a baffle in the stove above the firebrick?

 

[brenndatomu]

Looks like there's a damper already on the stove pipe. That's the primary control.

Looks to be closed in that pic too...might need the holes in the damper plate closed up some too...

 

[begreen]

Looks to be closed in that pic too...might need the holes in the damper plate closed up some too...

That is not recommended.

 

[bholler]

That is not recommended.

Nope to much restriction there and co will pour out those open vents

 

[WinterBeach]

Magnet Source® 1-7/8" x 7/8" Ceramic Block Magnet - 2 Count

These rectangular blocks are perfect for do-it-yourself projects like making your own magnets. Glue them to the back of any light to medium weight item and place on refrigerators, lockers, whiteboards, or any ferrous metal surface. Perfect for home, school, and office use, these hard ceramic...

www.menards.com

This is what I use to partially block my secondary air.

Thanks so much for the rec. I will almost definitely use this.

 

[WinterBeach]

Yes, that stove will eat wood like candy. It's just a step above a fireplace with a door.
Maybe experiment with some wads of aluminum foil in some of the holes to see if that regulates the fire better?

Is it legal to rent out a place with a woodstove as the sole heat source?

I have two little electric baseboard heaters, but with all these windows and high ceilings and how drafty this place is, there is literally no way I can afford to use those things except on dangerously cold days to keep the pipes from freezing. Landlord is meagerly subsidizing three months of electric heat for the pipes. So wood and hot water bottles and an electric blanket are going to have to get me through a very frugal winter.

 

[WinterBeach]

Aluminum foil in some intakes will help as will pipe damper or two, but make sure those pipe dampers have holes in them. Do NOT even consider solid pipe dampers…as they’re creosote accidents waiting to happen.

As some others mentioned, amounts of wood as well as size of wood pieces will help you regulate the temperature. On cold starts top down fired are your friend. Near impossible for a top down fire on a bed of red hot coals, so just add a piece or two.

Plan on waking up a lot at night to feed that stove and be prepared to buy a moisture meter to check moisture content of wood supply … you’ll want that wood as dry as you can possibly get it somewhere below 18% and preferably much dryer if you can get it there.

Also be prepared to have a chimney cleaning brush and to use it at least once monthly throughout the winter, or have someone inspect and sweep it for you monthly. Obviously, it’s cheaper to do it yourself

Aluminum foil in some intakes will help as will pipe damper or two, but make sure those pipe dampers have holes in them. Do NOT even consider solid pipe dampers…as they’re creosote accidents waiting to happen.

As some others mentioned, amounts of wood as well as size of wood pieces will help you regulate the temperature. On cold starts top down fired are your friend. Near impossible for a top down fire on a bed of red hot coals, so just add a piece or two.

Plan on waking up a lot at night to feed that stove and be prepared to buy a moisture meter to check moisture content of wood supply … you’ll want that wood as dry as you can possibly get it somewhere below 18% and preferably much dryer if you can get it there.

Also be prepared to have a chimney cleaning brush and to use it at least once monthly throughout the winter, or have someone inspect and sweep it for you monthly. Obviously, it’s cheaper to do it yourself.

Aluminum foil in some intakes will help as will pipe damper or two, but make sure those pipe dampers have holes in them. Do NOT even consider solid pipe dampers…as they’re creosote accidents waiting to happen.

As some others mentioned, amounts of wood as well as size of wood pieces will help you regulate the temperature. On cold starts top down fired are your friend. Near impossible for a top down fire on a bed of red hot coals, so just add a piece or two.

Plan on waking up a lot at night to feed that stove and be prepared to buy a moisture meter to check moisture content of wood supply … you’ll want that wood as dry as you can possibly get it somewhere below 18% and preferably much dryer if you can get it there.

Also be prepared to have a chimney cleaning brush and to use it at least once monthly throughout the winter, or have someone inspect and sweep it for you monthly. Obviously, it’s cheaper to do it yourself.

The one piece of good news here is that I managed to get a face cord of kiln-dried wood from someone who was moving away in my community. Also, I also have a chimney brush.

Any thoughts on how long a face cord could be expected to last in the shoulder season, for a 400sf place? I'm hoping 2 months, but would love any thoughts on that

Any thoughts on how long a face cord could be expected to last in the shoulder season, for a 400sf place? I'm hoping 2 months, but would love any thoughts on that

Aluminum foil in some intakes will help as will pipe damper or two, but make sure those pipe dampers have holes in them. Do NOT even consider solid pipe dampers…as they’re creosote accidents waiting to happen.

As some others mentioned, amounts of wood as well as size of wood pieces will help you regulate the temperature. On cold starts top down fired are your friend. Near impossible for a top down fire on a bed of red hot coals, so just add a piece or two.

Plan on waking up a lot at night to feed that stove and be prepared to buy a moisture meter to check moisture content of wood supply … you’ll want that wood as dry as you can possibly get it somewhere below 18% and preferably much dryer if you can get it there.

Also be prepared to have a chimney cleaning brush and to use it at least once monthly throughout the winter, or have someone inspect and sweep it for you monthly. Obviously, it’s cheaper to do it yourself.

The one good piece of news here is that I got 90% of a face cord worth of kiln-dried wood from someone moving away from my neighborhood.

I'm hoping that lasts Nov and Dec, but maybe that is too optimistic considering what a wood guzzler this thing is. Any off-the-cuff guesses on how long a face cord might last in a 400sf place using this goofy stove?

 

[WinterBeach]

Looks like there's a damper already on the stove pipe. That's the primary control.

@WinterBeach is there a baffle in the stove above the firebrick?

Yes, there is a baffle.

And I wish that damper seemed like it was doing much of anything, but it's barely having any effect-- presumably because the stove is just sucking in new air constantly through those holes.

 

[WinterBeach]

And thanks all for taking the time to think about this and offer advice. I've been dreaming of having a woodstove again for many years-- and I'm honestly just grateful to burn wood again (it completely changes the experience of winter for me). But yeesh, it is definitely disappointing to be working with such an inefficient, wasteful stove.

(Also, oops! It looks like I accidentally posted this whole thing in the classic stove forum, which this is certainly not. Sorry about that.)

In the meantime, I am just going to stare at the Woodstock Fireview and other efficient, lush-looking stoves and dream.

 

[Hoytman]

Far too optimistic I believe. That face cord won’t last a month…may not make it to beginning of week 3.

 

[begreen]

(Also, oops! It looks like I accidentally posted this whole thing in the classic stove forum, which this is certainly not. Sorry about that.)

The posting was moved to the classics forum. This is definitely a pre-EPA stove.

This forum is for discussion of older stoves - many built during the stove boom of the first oil shocks up until the EPA regs started to take hold. Brands include Fisher, All Nighter, Timberline and many models of current makers like Vermont Castings, Jotul, etc.

 

[WinterBeach]

Far too optimistic I believe. That face cord won’t last a month…may not make it to beginning of week 3.

Oh. Well okay, that's not good. So much for the naive excitement.

I won't be able to buy more wood for a couple of months until my new job starts and money starts coming in.

Thanks for the information though. I used some firewood calculators, but I was really not anticipating how inefficient this stove would be.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

A face cord could last days or weeks depending on how you burn. An electric blanket might keep you warm for less money.

 

[Heat Maxx]

Continue with your set up, just get a different stove. Facebook marketplace is a great source if you don't want a brand new one.

 

[gthomas785]

This is definitely a pre-EPA stove

Is it? I've never seen a pre-EPA stove with so many air intakes. Looks like this one was discontinued a few years ago.

Vogelzang VG450ELGB Frontiersman Wood Stove

The Frontiersman wood stove is constructed of heavy gauge reinforced plate steel with welded seams to insure years of service. Heavy cast iron door with air washed ceramic glass window allows a magnificent view of the burning fire. Nickel-Pewter trim accents satin black finish. High speed blower...

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[brenndatomu]

Is it? I've never seen a pre-EPA stove with so many air intakes. Looks like this one was discontinued a few years ago.

Vogelzang VG450ELGB Frontiersman Wood Stove

The Frontiersman wood stove is constructed of heavy gauge reinforced plate steel with welded seams to insure years of service. Heavy cast iron door with air washed ceramic glass window allows a magnificent view of the burning fire. Nickel-Pewter trim accents satin black finish. High speed blower...

hvacdirect.com

You are right...not only is that an EPA stove, its one of the "newer" fixed rate burn stoves. But VZ is not known for fine controls, even on the non fixed rate stoves...I had a Defender for a while, had to close half the various air holes off to control it, and our chimney is not even that tall (17') but it ran pretty nice after that. The current Drolet 1400i is better though, for sure.

Nope to much restriction there and co will pour out those open vents

How is it any different than using a pipe damper on any stove...close it too much and you gonna get smoke/co in the house...

 

[WinterBeach]

A face cord could last days or weeks depending on how you burn. An electric blanket might keep you warm for less money.

Yes, I have an electric blanket and an electric mattress heater, and I'll be bundling up as much as possible. Thanks for the advice though, I appreciate it. I'll be burning as little as possible to extend the wood as long as possible.