Tips on Making a Hearth Pad

[kingfisher]

I want to make my own hearth pad for my stove, It's a corner pad. Anyone have some tips on what it should be made out of.
any info would be helpfull.

 

[SlyFerret]

I used metal framing studs to make the structure underneath and create an air space (for better R-Value). The air space was about 1.5 inches. To make the metal studs stronger, I mated two of them together to make them form a box, and then used sheet metal screws in the sides to fasten them together. They were placed flat, and spaced 6 or 8 inches on centers (I can't remember off the top of my head).

I screwed three sheets of durock on top to give me a good solid surface.

Ceramic tiles were used as the finish material.

-SF

 

[begreen]

The stove just calls out for a non-combustible barrier in the manual. You can either buy a hearth pad or attach some cementboard of the proper dimension to the floor and tile it. Or you could place a layer of bricks on a metal sheet and surround them with a trim cleat. What would fit best visually?

Here's an article on building a hearth. It's overkill for you stove's requirements, but looks great. There is no harm in overbuilding or preparing the space so that it can be used by a different stove in the future.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/stove_hearth_construction

 

[asylum575]

If you can find some Micore 300, that's the way to go with a layer of wonderboard and some tile. Micore 300 is made by US Gypsum and has a very high R-value. If you go this way, stay away from Durock, also a US Gypsum product. The new Durock has some styrofoam that hurts it R value.
A Micore/wonderboard/tile pad can be made for under $100

 

[begreen]

Durock "Next Generation" and Easyboard that have styrofoam pellets in it. They may actually have better insulation value, but has not been tested or approved for high heat applications to my knowledge. Original Durock and Wonderboard are cement backer boards and acceptable for hearth and wall shields. For the Regency 2400, Micore would be overkill. But no harm in using it underneath a cement backerboard, especially if you want to build for a future stove that may have higher hearth insulation requirements.

 

[kingfisher]

So if I used 3/4 plywood and put the Durock on that and then tile with a nice trim around, that would work.

 

[Michael6268]

Most likely 3 or 4 layers of durock would be needed. You really need to know the R value required and then calculate accordingly.

 

[edthedawg]

Read Begreen's post #2: "The stove just calls out for a non-combustible barrier in the manual."

Kingfisher - yes, your plan is fine. Good luck w/ it.

 

[firefighterjake]

So if I used 3/4 plywood and put the Durock on that and then tile with a nice trim around, that would work.

That's pretty much what I did with my Oslo which also only required ember protection.

I did use two layers of plywood though for more strength and to give it a little more height and then fastened the 1/2 Durock (listed as floor protection) to the plywood and then laid down some slate tile . . . I still haven't got around to putting the trim around the edge though since my wife and I are working on the house and we needed a break from the work after going at it fast and furious back in the Fall.

 

[gman1001]

whats your budget? If you have a few bucks to spend check out my last project . I don't have a pic of the underlayment of my hearthstone but the pics kind of show how high off the ground I made the stove.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/21581/

I went with 2x4's then a sheet of durarock then the 2" custom cut bluestone. Don't care how hot the stove gets, I have no idea what the R value is, there is no way those 2x4's are in danger from the heat...

To me, with the mess of a woodstove, a sheet of bluestone is the way to go... Tile is to messy and the groutlines will dirty up no matter what... Of course they all look good at first!

My 2cents...