to install or not to install a flex liner

[LONDONDERRY]

So here is my situation. I have a 1402 Napolean stove insert in my fireplace. The dims of the flue are 6-1/4" x 10. The chimney is 15' tall. The cly tiles are not perfectly stacked one on top of each other. I wanted to use a 6" diameter flex liner, but because the tiles are offset, I don't think I can snake on down. I contact Napolean and asked if a 5-1/2 can be used, they said they would not reccomend undersizing because my chimney length is at the minimum code in length. NExt I called two stove shops and they said that because the flue tiles are small to begin with I don't need a full lenght liner and to just run a 6 foot length of flex liner into the chimney and make a bottom block off plate and have a rain cap and everything should be fine. I have the oppertunity to buy a 16' ss flex liner from Z-flex for $85.00. But I can't make a decision if what I'm going to do is correct or not, so I need some advice is 6 ft length of flex liner is okay or not.


Thanks
Frank

 

[branchburner]

Firstly, if you need 15 feet and get 16, you might end up like me: I thought I needed 19, I got 20, and came up a liiiiiiittle short. Everyone with any experience suggested I get 25 ft. So take my advice, 'cause I'm sure not using it. (On the other hand, $85 bucks is not a lot of scratch for 16 feet, so it might be worth a shot - was that an ebay deal? I paid $400 for 20 feet!)

You might be able to ovalize your 6inch and squeeze it through, but the offset tiles will be a pain - use a pulling cone and a friend.

Everything on this forum suggest the halfway-up option makes sweeping a real chore, I would think especially for an insert.

 

[saichele]

I'd be very tempted to get the 16' and try to ovalize it. You'll lose a little cross section, and it may adversely affect your draft. I had a similar install (Napoleon 1402, 1 story chimney), and it didn't draft for c&*p. The best thing would be to get a rectangular liner, but it might cost $85/ft, instead of $85 for the whole shot.

Steve

 

[estreeter34]

Another option, although much more work, is to remove the flue tiles with a heavy steel plate offset on a drill rod with several rod sections to knock out the flue tiles. Then the 6" liner will slide right in and you can insulate it to code. I do this often in cases like you have described for customers to make sure the install is correct and safe.

 

[LONDONDERRY]

So now a different issues. I purchased the liner last night. There was a 6 foot section that came with it. I ovalized it a bit and snaked up the chimney from the heart, what a pain. So then I was going to connect it to the appliance connector and it turns out that the stove collar is close to the dampener housing. So because the dampener has a angle on it I can connect dirrectly to the stove because of clearance issues. Any suggestions?

Frank

 

[estreeter34]

It sounds like you may have to remove the dampener to achieve the clearance neccessary. This is common on many firplace insert installs.

 

[LONDONDERRY]

It sounds like you may have to remove the dampener to achieve the clearance neccessary. This is common on many firplace insert installs.

I was thinking the same. Not to get comfused, we are not talking about removing just the dampener plate, which I did, bu also the housing. I don't know if I can do that because its been cemented in at the flanges.

 

[estreeter34]

London:
You are right about the "housing". Sometimes a oxy/acet. torch is required. Most of the time I can get enough room by cutting it with a sawz all or circular saw with the right blades. Just keep in mind you want the proper clearances.

 

[LONDONDERRY]

Well I was thinking th esame. Using a Sawzall and cutting out sections of the damper. However, before I do that, I'm thinking about seeing if a adjustable elbow and seeing if that works out okay, I'll start simple first. However, if I want to remove the damper throat, how is that done? I've removed the plate


Thanks
Frank

 

[branchburner]

Removing the throat may be tough, as you said it's cemented in. I had a similar situation, and just cut the middle section out of the front piece. Started with a sawzall, but found a hacksaw easier (thanks to Brother Bart on that).

 

[LONDONDERRY]

Removing the throat may be tough, as you said it's cemented in. I had a similar situation, and just cut the middle section out of the front piece. Started with a sawzall, but found a hacksaw easier (thanks to Brother Bart on that).

Well I just called the CFO (Chief Family Officer aka Wife) and I was basically told to try the adjustable elbow first. I'll see how this goes if it does not work them out come the power tools. Its reasons like this I never say or argue with some one when they say "how hard can it be" or "piece of cake"


Frank

 

[olskool53]

I had the same problem. I decided to remove the old Cast Iron dampener with a sawzall it came out pretty easy, and if I ever remove the stove I'll put a more efficient top dampener in.

 

[LONDONDERRY]

I had the same problem. I decided to remove the old Cast Iron dampener with a sawzall it came out pretty easy, and if I ever remove the stove I'll put a more efficient top dampener in.

--

 

[LONDONDERRY]

So last night I installed a 6 ft long section on flex liner up the flue. to connect it to the stove was the hardest part. I had to buy a adjustable elbow fitting. After figthing with it and the wife as well I finally got it connected. So now I hav to make the block off plate. I was thinking alot about what everyone has posted about a liner installed the full length. Next year I will do that not because the flue tiles are cracked but because the ease of cleaning. However, I have too much on my plate between work and other house repairs and car repairs as well. So does anyone think this setup of snaking a 6 ‘ section of flex liner in a 6 x 10 flue tiles with a block off plate be okay for one burn season?

Thanks
Frank

 

[estreeter34]

I think this is only half fixing the issue. I'll put it this way...If you have 4 bad tires (all flat and unrepairable) are you going to replace only 2?
I also understand the issue of time and money. Personally I would not do this for a customer. Just my .02

 

[branchburner]

So does anyone think this setup of snaking a 6 ‘ section of flex liner in a 6 x 10 flue tiles with a block off plate be okay for one burn season?

Burn dry wood and keep an eye on creosote buildup.

 

[LONDONDERRY]

So does anyone think this setup of snaking a 6 ‘ section of flex liner in a 6 x 10 flue tiles with a block off plate be okay for one burn season?

Burn dry wood and keep an eye on creosote buildup.

All the wood I have is 8-10 months old, so its been seasoned. We plan on cleaning the stove once a month when the colder weather sets in. I realize that I'll have a ton of work cleaning the stove, and chimney, because I basically have to pull it out once a month to clean everything out. I would be doing this regardless. However, I tried snaking a flex liner all the way down from the top. I spent 2 hours and basically unless I undersize to a 5-1/2 flex liner I'm not going to be able to do this. Why?, because the flue tiles are offset which seems to cause the liner to hang up, even if I ovalize the liner. So I think I might be stuck with what I have, but I'll try again in the spring