Top damper or glass doors

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

ConfusedOwner

New Member
Dec 29, 2019
4
California
I have a 1960s home with a heatalator unit. Had two chimney specialists come out and perform an inspection on the fireplace.

The throat damper is rusted out. It doesn't close all the way and sucking all the heat out. Due to the design of the heatalotor it's too difficult to replace the damper. One is recommending to seal it from the top (top damper) and have the chain come from the top through the chimney. The other is recommending to seal it from the fireplace by installing glass doors.

I've searched around the forums but it's not clear what the best way to seal the fireplace when not in use. Thoughts?
 
I have a 1960s home with a heatalator unit. Had two chimney specialists come out and perform an inspection on the fireplace.

The throat damper is rusted out. It doesn't close all the way and sucking all the heat out. Due to the design of the heatalotor it's too difficult to replace the damper. One is recommending to seal it from the top (top damper) and have the chain come from the top through the chimney. The other is recommending to seal it from the fireplace by installing glass doors.

I've searched around the forums but it's not clear what the best way to seal the fireplace when not in use. Thoughts?
Did both tell you the fireplace is unusable regardless of either of those "fixes" right?
 
First one said that it had rust and shouldn't be used -- repair would require removing the heatalator unit from the rear of the chimney by taking the brick apart

The 2nd one said only the restplate is rusted and could continue to be used. Is that not the case with these units?
 
The 2nd one said only the restplate is rusted and could continue to be used. Is that not the case with these units?
By the description of the throat damper rusted out too, it sounds worse. You might consider installing an insert there for peace of mind and better heating.
 
First one said that it had rust and shouldn't be used -- repair would require removing the heatalator unit from the rear of the chimney by taking the brick apart

The 2nd one said only the restplate is rusted and could continue to be used. Is that not the case with these units?
Well I haven't seen it but I have never seen one that had a rusted damper without also having a rusted smoke shelf. If that smoke shelf is compromised it could allow flue gasses into that chamber and out the vents. But no it doesn't have to come out the back. It can be cut apart from inside then replaced with masonry. Or have an insert and liner installed
 
Here are the pictures from the inspection report, if it helps at all.
 

Attachments

  • Fireplace.png
    Fireplace.png
    1.1 MB · Views: 120
OK good to hear that confirmation.

In that case, I will call around if anyone can repair the smoke shelf from the front as that should bring down the cost. I am open to them cutting out the heatilator tubes and welding them off. I believe the obstruction from the heatilator tubes was the reason the chimney specialists wanted to go through the rear.

It will be less efficient than installing an insert but we plan on using the fireplace mainly for ambiance anyway. It never gets below 40* and for heating I prefer the central gas as it warms all rooms evenly. We prefer the look of the open fireplace too.

The cost of going through the back to get to the smoke shelf and fixing it is nearing what it would cost to install a new insert.
 
OK good to hear that confirmation.

In that case, I will call around if anyone can repair the smoke shelf from the front as that should bring down the cost. I am open to them cutting out the heatilator tubes and welding them off. I believe the obstruction from the heatilator tubes was the reason the chimney specialists wanted to go through the rear.

It will be less efficient than installing an insert but we plan on using the fireplace mainly for ambiance anyway. It never gets below 40* and for heating I prefer the central gas as it warms all rooms evenly. We prefer the look of the open fireplace too.

The cost of going through the back to get to the smoke shelf and fixing it is nearing what it would cost to install a new insert.
You don't be repairing the smoke shelf you will be cutting out all of the metal and rebuilding a firebox with firebrick.