Top Venting Oslo Recommendations

[CJRages]

I'm in the beginning stages of chimney installation and I'd like to design the chimney system so that I am able to top vent my Jotul Oslo before taking a 90 back - through a wall thimble to at T and up the exterior of the house.

How much height off the top of the stove must I have before taking a 90 elbow to the T? The reason I ask is: there is a wooden mantle above the stove which limits clearance to the black stovepipe (even with double wall). I probably could only go up 15-18" before I would have to elbow back and keep the 8" clearance to the wood mantle! Would this be a mistake? Everything I've seen has recommended using 2ft of vertical run before the elbow.

Thanks.

 

[mikepinto65]

Mine goes up 34" before hitting the 90 to thimble. Do you have a manual to check? I can't remember if there is a min recomendation.

 

[summit]

Put it 48" inches up the wall. Period. This will accomodate ANY kind of future changes on your hearth. W/ a class a 6" chimney, you can make just about any application (wood, coal, gas, pellet) work inside of your existing system. It's easier to have the exiting chimney be at a 48" height now, than move it later if you ever change. It'll also give you flexabitlity to install a 30 deg or 45 deg elbow to avoit a stud without compromising your stove's position. The best laid hearths are wrecked because you are not able to install the unit EXACTLY there because you don't have flexability in the vent.

 

[CJRages]

Mine goes up 34" before hitting the 90 to thimble. Do you have a manual to check? I can't remember if there is a min recomendation.

Yes. I have checked the manual. Here is the quote: "For the best performance the chimney connector should be as short and direct as possible, with no more than two 90° elbows." The chimney connector is defined as "a single walled pipe used to connect the stove to the chimney."

So that confuses me somewhat... the "as short as possible" part makes me scratch my head. Maybe someone with more experience than me could help me understand why this is true?

 

[CJRages]

Put it 48" inches up the wall. Period. This will accomodate ANY kind of future changes on your hearth. W/ a class a 6" chimney, you can make just about any application (wood, coal, gas, pellet) work inside of your existing system. It's easier to have the exiting chimney be at a 48" height now, than move it later if you ever change. It'll also give you flexabitlity to install a 30 deg or 45 deg elbow to avoit a stud without compromising your stove's position. The best laid hearths are wrecked because you are not able to install the unit EXACTLY there because you don't have flexability in the vent.

Summit, I agree with you 100%. That reason is why we are top venting the Oslo instead of rear venting. Once the class A pipe is installed it shouldn't need to be modified for a LONG TIME.

Now so that we are clear about the 48" height... I am assuming you mean at least 48" above the floor level or do you mean 48" above the top of the stove?

 

[begreen]

Can you post a quick picture CJ to be sure we are not missing something here?

 

[CJRages]

Can you post a quick picture CJ to be sure we are not missing something here?

The best I could do with an older picture I have here at work. And we do not have internet at home so new pics are not available for the time being.

 

[begreen]

That was a link to the file in your personal gmail account. It is not visible by us. I deleted the link in case there might be privacy issues. Copy the image to your desktop, then post it using the forum tools for posting an image or attach it in a PM to me if you need assistance.

 

[summit]

Put it 48" inches up the wall. Period. This will accomodate ANY kind of future changes on your hearth. W/ a class a 6" chimney, you can make just about any application (wood, coal, gas, pellet) work inside of your existing system. It's easier to have the exiting chimney be at a 48" height now, than move it later if you ever change. It'll also give you flexabitlity to install a 30 deg or 45 deg elbow to avoit a stud without compromising your stove's position. The best laid hearths are wrecked because you are not able to install the unit EXACTLY there because you don't have flexability in the vent.

Summit, I agree with you 100%. That reason is why we are top venting the Oslo instead of rear venting. Once the class A pipe is installed it shouldn't need to be modified for a LONG TIME.

Now so that we are clear about the 48" height... I am assuming you mean at least 48" above the floor level or do you mean 48" above the top of the stove?

48" from floor

 

[grommal]

I'm in the beginning stages of chimney installation and I'd like to design the chimney system so that I am able to top vent my Jotul Oslo before taking a 90 back - through a wall thimble to at T and up the exterior of the house.

How much height off the top of the stove must I have before taking a 90 elbow to the T? The reason I ask is: there is a wooden mantle above the stove which limits clearance to the black stovepipe (even with double wall). I probably could only go up 15-18" before I would have to elbow back and keep the 8" clearance to the wood mantle! Would this be a mistake? Everything I've seen has recommended using 2ft of vertical run before the elbow.

Thanks.

With our Oslo, I had to go with the 90 elbow coming right out of the top vent so I could take the short horizontal run through the existing thimble into a masonry chimney. The idiot who built the chimney put the thimble so low to the hearth, there were many stoves that were ruled out just because they were too high. The Oslo just fit, fortunately.

Even with this lack of a vertical run before the elbow, our still drafts just fine.