Trailering a splitter

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FuzzyOne

Burning Hunk
Nov 30, 2006
150
Central NJ
My brother-in-law is having 2 large ash trees cut down due to the ash borer. I want to take my splitter over his house which is about a 30 minute drive...all highway. I'd rather not tow the splitter at those speeds and was thinking of putting it on my tandem axle landscape trailer. Anyone done this?

One idea is to add a hitch ball on the front. Maybe reinforcing the trailer's angle iron top member. Mind you, this is a pretty heavy duty trailer made in 1991. My biggest fear is something happening and the splitter shooting forward into my pickup.

The other idea is to mount the ball on the side between the two axles. The splitter would then ride perpendicular....if that makes sense and even the load out. The trailer is already a little tongue heavy.

Either way, I'd use decent ratchet straps front and rear.

Any other suggestions? I also weld by the way. Thanks.

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ratchet strap the crap out it , check your straps after driving 5-10 minutes
 
I've pulled one on my larger open 2 axle dovetail along with my utv and equipment when I was doing some logging out of town for a friend on his property. I just used the quad to back the splitter up to the front of the trailer, chocked the wheels and strapped it down. No issues. Maybe you could tip yours vertical if it helps with stabilizing it, depending on the trailer. I always trailer mine when it's more than a few miles away.
 
Going to do the same to my trailer and weld a ball on in the middle of the front top rail. My safety chains are long enough to wrap around the rail as added insurance and then I will use a heavy duty ratchet strap to keep the rear end of the splitter from bouncing around...
 
Thanks everyone. I think I'll go with the ball mounted in the front rail. May even weld on a 2" receiver there so I can change out to a winch I also want to add to drag up large rounds.

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If you have a trailer, that's the best way to get it there. I've done it for a 75 mile trip. I get it on the trailer move it forward and put the hitch up against the front of the trailer. All the tie downs pull it forward. if there's an issue with the splitter hitch damaging what its resting against put wood in between.

Also you can build out of 2x4 a wood frame that lays on the floor and chocks the wheels. I have done this moving motorcycles.

But you can tow it. Run the gas out or turn it off and run it dry. Don't hit pot holes. I know you can do 45 -50 MPH. I've done it.
 
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If you have a trailer, that's the best way to get it there. I've done it for a 75 mile trip. I get it on the trailer move it forward and put the hitch up against the front of the trailer. All the tie downs pull it forward. if there's an issue with the splitter hitch damaging what its resting against put wood in between.

Also you can build out of 2x4 a wood frame that lays on the floor and chocks the wheels. I have done this moving motorcycles.

But you can tow it. Run the gas out or turn it off and run it dry. Don't hit pot holes. I know you can do 45 -50 MPH. I've done it.
Good advice. Thanks. I like idea of choking the wheels.

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Going to do the same to my trailer and weld a ball on in the middle of the front top rail. ....

With a couple straps and possibly some wheel chocks, I don't know that the splitter would be any more prone to going anywhere than any other load. Though the second ball for trailering a trailer is a neat idea. I'd recommend against welding the actual ball, though. The ball and shaft are likely some type of alloy steel...probably similar to a grade 8 bolt. If not welded with the proper filler metal and pre / post heat treatments, the steel could end up brittle or soft... either way, the ball could shear off just at the time you need it the most. Would be much better to weld mild steel reinforcing as needed, then install the ball as designed...probably a bolted shaft?
 
With a couple straps and possibly some wheel chocks, I don't know that the splitter would be any more prone to going anywhere than any other load. Though the second ball for trailering a trailer is a neat idea. I'd recommend against welding the actual ball, though. The ball and shaft are likely some type of alloy steel...probably similar to a grade 8 bolt. If not welded with the proper filler metal and pre / post heat treatments, the steel could end up brittle or soft... either way, the ball could shear off just at the time you need it the most. Would be much better to weld mild steel reinforcing as needed, then install the ball as designed...probably a bolted shaft?
With a couple straps and possibly some wheel chocks, I don't know that the splitter would be any more prone to going anywhere than any other load. Though the second ball for trailering a trailer is a neat idea. I'd recommend against welding the actual ball, though. The ball and shaft are likely some type of alloy steel...probably similar to a grade 8 bolt. If not welded with the proper filler metal and pre / post heat treatments, the steel could end up brittle or soft... either way, the ball could shear off just at the time you need it the most. Would be much better to weld mild steel reinforcing as needed, then install the ball as designed...probably a bolted shaft?[/QUOTE
IMG_3847.JPGThere is no need to weld the ball...in my case I will weld a 2 in. receiver tubing to the top of my 2 in. heavy wall top rail on my trailer and use it the traditional manner and ratchet strap the rear end down good so it doesnt get side ways on me....and it will if you dont..
 
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Well, I finally got around to doing this. Thanks for all the suggestions. I added 4 tie-down points, purchased some straps and a hand ratched to get it on the trailer. I also added a tow ball on the front of the trailer. It didn't budge.
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Dont know if your splitter is the same. My DHT log splitter with a Kohler motor manual states:

"Turn the fuel shut off valve on the engine to the “OFF” position before towing"

lf this is not done, gas will make its way into the oil. Even when rolling the splitter from barn to the work area I turn off the fuel.