Troy-Bilt 27 ton needs a new control valve

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tomc585

Member
Jul 3, 2012
107
Long Island, New York
Been searching to find a replacement control valve.
The over priced Troy-Bilt / MTD # is 918-0481A which is an Energy valve (MODEL 0C000908, I think, It says Energy 326890) on the detent cover is $97
Is there any other replacement options I'm not finding?
Rebuilding isn't an option since the casting has a crack at the inlet port.
 
Thanks, I saw that but that's $30 more than direct from Energy ($121 with shipping, looking for a coupon code)
 
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thats how mine is mounted. looks like it would work. I was just a little weary of the quality of this valve.
 
Ordered it, will post a follow up after it arrives and is installed.
 
So the new Speeco control valve came and its identical. I am very pleased with it so far. It even looks like a better quality, raw casting is much better than the original Energy brand.
The only thing was that the valve spool assembly was inverted for my splitter. All I had to do was take it apart and reassemble it the other way. Its installed and ready for new hydraulic fluid.
 
So the new Speeco control valve came and its identical. I am very pleased with it so far. It even looks like a better quality, raw casting is much better than the original Energy brand.
The only thing was that the valve spool assembly was inverted for my splitter. All I had to do was take it apart and reassemble it the other way. Its installed and ready for new hydraulic fluid.

Tom...i need to replace my valve (rather than rebuild it). I had a couple questions i was hoping you could answer.

1) How difficult was it to invert the valve spool assembly on the Speeco control valve?

2) How difficult was it to install the Speeco once that was done?

Any advice wood be great appreciated.

Jim
 
Tom...i need to replace my valve (rather than rebuild it). I had a couple questions i was hoping you could answer.

1) How difficult was it to invert the valve spool assembly on the Speeco control valve?

2) How difficult was it to install the Speeco once that was done?

Any advice wood be great appreciated.

Jim
If it is identical to the energy/nortrack valve it is not hard. On my lift spools, after removing the handles, all I did was remove the two bolts holding the handle support and spin it down into the opposite position, did not have to disassemble the actual valve, reinstall bolts. Make sure the system is off and any pressure is zeroed. Bolts had Allen heads.
 
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Tom hasn’t been on the site since 2016 - so I wouldn’t hold my breath for his response. As Mr. Iron stated above, it is basically just spinning it around. Should be pretty straight forwards.
 
Sounds like Tom is long gone, but for benefit of others, a cracked inlet port is very likely overtightened NPT pipe threads trying to stop a leak. NPT needs teflon tape or sealant. It wedges outward and can crack ports, distort housings, or bind up spools. I hate NPT. Use SAE ORing boss when you can.
 
Sounds like Tom is long gone, but for benefit of others, a cracked inlet port is very likely overtightened NPT pipe threads trying to stop a leak. NPT needs teflon tape or sealant. It wedges outward and can crack ports, distort housings, or bind up spools. I hate NPT. Use SAE ORing boss when you can.
I have found hemp to be the best for NPT threads,you score the threads with a chisel wrap with hemp apply a little dope to hold the hemp in place and tighten.If you do happen to have a leak the hemp swells from contact with liquid and the leak is gone.
When i built my system i had over 150 threaded joints,some of them recycled fittings,zero leaks when tested with 80PSI air.
It takes a little longer to do each fitting properly with hemp... No leaks Priceless
 
I have found hemp to be the best for NPT threads,you score the threads with a chisel wrap with hemp apply a little dope to hold the hemp in place and tighten.If you do happen to have a leak the hemp swells from contact with liquid and the leak is gone.
When i built my system i had over 150 threaded joints,some of them recycled fittings,zero leaks when tested with 80PSI air.
It takes a little longer to do each fitting properly with hemp... No leaks Priceless

Hemp? Dope? None of that is legal around these parts.
 
Hemp? Dope? None of that is legal around these parts.
Fortunately for me, the level of dope dissipates as I move away from the machine- ha ha.
 
Hemp? Dope? None of that is legal around these parts.
Not the kind you smoke.
It is strands of hemp fiber like used to make rope.Go to an older plumbing shop and they should have it.
When i was building my storage i thought i would do some comparisons because i was skeptical about the time required to use the hemp properly,and of hemp it's self.The guy that helped me design my sytem was amendment that it was better that any other methods of sealing threads.He was right.
My tanks had multiple holes i had to plug to test the welds.
I tried just Teflon. tape,just pipe dope and the hemp method.I had 6 holes per tank to seal for the test.The hemp ones were the only ones that didn't leak,i was able to get some the others to seal with extra tightening,except for a couple of the Teflon treated ones.
Good enough test for me to use hemp from then on.I even use it on the air line fittings on my trucks.Any threaded fitting that i touch now gets hemp on the threads.
 
Having worked (4th generation) for my family’s plumbing business when I was young, and working on a lot of old houses, I’ve seen folks use all sorts of combinations of tapes, ropes, and dopes. I never seem to have trouble with the right number of turns of a good Teflon tape, on a quality fitting, so I personally don’t get it.

Buy good quality fittings, get tape of the right type (they’re color coded now, folks) and width, and learn to put the right number of turns on the fitting. The only time you need to resort to dope on tape is when dealing with poorly-cut threads, like threaded copper sweat fittings.

If you prefer dope, that’s fine alone, but I’m not familiar with many rated for oils at hydraulic pressures. I use Rectorseal No.5 all the time, on PVC fittings for water, or other fittings for gas. It is not rated for hydraulics.

The only surprise I found when switching the valve out on my Speeco splitter was how ridiculously tight they had most of the fittings. Since they’re using the fitting as the mechanical means of holding a valve on which the operator will be yanking, I guess they went at least a full turn beyond what would be normally required. I think I had a 48” pipe wrench on that valve body, before I got it to turn, which is stupid tight for a 1/2” NPT fitting.
 
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If it is identical to the energy/nortrack vale it is not hard. On my lift spools, after removing the handles, all I did was remove the two bolts holding the handle support and spin it down into the opposite position, did not have to disassemble the actual valve, reinstall bolts. Make sure the system is off and any pressure is zeroed. Bolts had Allen heads.

I installed the SPEEDCO value and the handle works in the opposite manner!!!! I believe this is because the Ports A and B are reversed on the SPEDDCO. I believe the was what TOMC see was referring to about disassembling the SPEEDCO and reversing the value body Can you or anyone tell me how to do this?!?!

Thanks in advance,

Jim
 
No. I cannot. Sorry.
 
You mean Ports A and B?
Yep. If the direction is backwards just swap the hoses around (That is.. If I am understanding your issue correctly).
 
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Yep. If the direction is backwards just swap the hoses around (That is.. If I am understanding your issue correctly).

Hold on, there. Speeco uses a short nipple one working port as the mount for this pump, and I don’t think you’d want to reverse inlet and outlet. Your only option is to re-mount it on the other working port, and spin the valve 180 from its current orientation.
 
The valve spool can not be reversed.

Thank you for your response but I'm confused because this user TOMC said the following...

"So the new Speeco control valve came and its identical. I am very pleased with it so far. It even looks like a better quality, raw casting is much better than the original Energy brand.
The only thing was that the valve spool assembly was inverted for my splitter. All I had to do was take it apart and reassemble it the other way. Its installed and ready for new hydraulic fluid."

Are you saying it cannot be disassembled?