Upgrading Englander 18-TR to 30- NC

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CHRISSR

New Member
Sep 14, 2016
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44076
Hi, this is my first post and on any forum, let me apologize if I am doing anything wrong!

I have an Englander 18-TR I have used for the past two years to heat my 1500ft double wide no basement. This thing works fairly well and it is my only heat source. But there are a couple problems like I can't get it to burn more then 4-5 hours and there is not much control just a damper in the pipe about 1' above the stove. A couple times with the damper closed to much a large puff of smoke came out of the air intake into the house.

So I want to upgrade but I am afraid to pull the trigger on one of these 30-nc or possibly the 13-nc. I am afraid they won't radiate the heat as well being double wall? Or that they just won't heat as good as this old one.

I have about 15' of 6" chimney pipe from the stove to the top is this enough for a bigger stove or will it not draft as well? My current setup drafts great.

Thanks in advance! I probably forgot something
 
Welcome. The issue may be the wood supply. Backpuffing usually happens when the fire snuffs out and smoke fills the firebox, then reignites with a whoomph when a flame reappears. That can mean the wood is not fully seasoned or that the fire is being damped down too soon. The 30NC is fairly radiant. It should easily provide overnight burns, but it will be even fussier about having dry wood. With 15 ft of stack there will be no need for a stove pipe damper. That is the minimum height for the stove.
 
Thanks for the reply, I was just reading the manual for the 30-nc it looks like minimum is 15' from bottom of stove to the top of chimney, I have 17' measured that way so should be good there I hope?

One more simple question? Do you guys think I will see a noticeable difference with a 30-nc as far as heat output?
 
Use 12-15 % dry wood and it will blow you out with heat. 18-20% it will still do fine ,but the former is a magical difference. My 30 has been heating my 2000sq ft home for the past 5 years using good hardwoods. It will keep the home above 65 for around 10 hours ( 65 is the gas furnace kick in point) as I do not always make it back there in 10 hours. You being in OH weather is somewhat similar. To many variables to guesstamate much else. Note I use to heat a an old ( 1980) 900sq ft mobile with a 2 cf unit same type of combustion system challenge getting heat to the backend as that hallway was narrow on the other hand there were a few times when it was close to zero out and 90 in. I would get around 8 hrs before the gas unit would be needed. All depends on your insulation. Don't know how newer units are put together but in mine the water lines were run next the heat ducting so it was necessary to keep warm air moving in those or suffer frozen lines ( I did have them freeze once ) repairing that was a nightmare.
 
So I want to upgrade but I am afraid to pull the trigger on one of these 30-nc or possibly the 13-nc. I am afraid they won't radiate the heat as well being double wall? Or that they just won't heat as good as this old one.

The nc30 is not double wall. It is a single wall steel plate stove and is the biggest stove you can get from Englander, it's also quite cheap and well built. If you can't stay warm with the nc30 in a mobile home then something must be wrong.
 
I heat 3000sq ft with a 30 and softwood. My furnace never came on last year. You will not have an issue!
 
You can buy side and rear shields to reduce clearances. IIRC the side shields are partial and don't go all the way to the front.
 
30-NC side heat shields.

[Hearth.com] Upgrading Englander 18-TR to 30- NC
 
I always wondered why the shield didn't cover the whole side. I made some that do cover the whole side.
 
Chrissr, you are about ten miles from me(I'm in New lyme)!
I went from an old smoke dragon (the wondercoal/wonderluxe at tractor supply) to an nc-30 two years ago. Almost bought a d.s. stove at cherry valley but couldn't turn the home depot spring sale price down.
My 1700 sq. Ft. house is insulated like Swiss cheese with poor circulation between rooms.. even in that worst cold two years ago I don't think my heat kicked on more than a handful of times, even with those negative temps we had. After 10+ hours between loads of slabwood (I work in cleveland), I always have plenty of good hot coals for a restart.

Sent from my SM-S820L using Tapatalk
 
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NC30 has rear heat shield installed out of the box. only extras are the two side ones kinda pricey.
 
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