using radiant balancing manifold

[barnartist]

I did not use one for the first half of my install. seems to work fine. I may however have to add a few feet to each radiant circuit thus add to the least resistance path. I already have the straight forward copper manifolds with shut off valves. Looks like a 3 circuit balancing manifold will cost me 150. The one I see has temp gauges, air purger and fill up valves on board. (broken link removed to http://www.pexuniverse.com/store/product/radiant-heat-manifold-ssm003)

Worth it or an unnecessary investment?

 

[in hot water]

I did not use one for the first half of my install. seems to work fine. I may however have to add a few feet to each radiant circuit thus add to the least resistance path. I already have the straight forward copper manifolds with shut off valves. Looks like a 3 circuit balancing manifold will cost me 150. The one I see has temp gauges, air purger and fill up valves on board. (broken link removed to http://www.pexuniverse.com/store/product/radiant-heat-manifold-ssm003)

Worth it or an unnecessary investment?

If you have different loop lengths, by more than 10%, it is nice to have balance valves and indicators to dial in the flow. It can also be done with snap on temperature gauges on both S&R.

Some brands and models offer air vent installation, temperature gauges, isolation valves, and pressure bypass valve options.

Also that type of manifold allows you to install 24V actuators to control the zones, or loops. Basically this type of manifold offers more control-ability.

hr

 

[barnartist]

can you tell me more about the 24V? Not up on that one. It would be nice to control the water temp rather than cycle a pump on and off with a preset temp. It would run even quieter I think.

 

[woodsmaster]

I installed those for my slab and they work nice. Made it really easy to purge the air out one loop at a time. I have the same length loops but have one loop under my office and bath
that I run faster to keep it warmer than the rest of the shop.

 

[in hot water]

Here is a look at a manifold. Generally they ship with those white plastic caps. The cap can be screwed down tight to shut off the flow. Back it off or remove it to open flow. Just a valve handle really.

This is what the valve mechanism looks like removed from the manifold. And a 24V actuator screwed onto the manifold. Actuators are available as a two wire, or 4 wire which includes an end switch to trip a relay or pump contact.

Usually these actuators wire to a ZC zone control module. ZC modules include a transformer that supplies the 24V. A shot of a Taco 404 is in another post here

hr

 

[barnartist]

Ok, but I am unclear on what it does... only one is needed for each manifold? This will control...the water speed/flow? Flow for the whole manifold I imagine, not each circuit.