Using UL103 for a masonry chimney liner

[k9mtn]

Hello-
Does anyone see any problems with using Super Vent double wall insulated factory built chimney (rigid stainless steel) to line an existing masonry chimney for a new Hampton H1200 insert? The material is UL103 certified whereas the manual suggests UL1777 (no liner is required as I understand).

Additionally, I can get a tax break in Oregon if I use outside air, but this insert will replace an interior fireplace with a solid (I think) brick/concrete chimney foundation. One suggestion was to bring outside air from the top of the chimney, any other suggestions?

Thanks so much,
Jim

 

[cgarmor]

The stovepipe you are referring to is used to connect a stove to an approved chimney. As such, it is not insulated. That is done so it gives up some of the heat in the flue to the room. It is not rated to pass thru a ceiling or a wall as it has a 6 inch clearance to combustibles...and it is not rated for use as a liner. If I were to reline a masonry chimney, I would use the double wall insulated stainless liner. An insulated liner will retain a lot of the heat in the flue thereby minimizing creosote build-up and helping make a strong draft. I guess the final argument against is that it will not meet code requirements.

Chris

 

[jtp10181]

Soapstone: UL103 chimney is what is often called "Class A". It is double wall and insulated.

I would not use it, use proper components. It would probably be less cost to use a UL1777 flexible liner kit.

 

[webbie]

I would see possible problems with long term condensation.
I agree with jtp.....
use regular liner and insulation with a insulation covering.
If the chimney is straight, use rigid pipe like heat-fab...it will last much longer than flex.