USSC 6039 issue..

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

mustangwagz

Feeling the Heat
Oct 5, 2014
259
Western PA
sup folks,

Ive already messaged Owen and Sidecar flip as they are the goto guru's that ive encountered on here. Owen is probably away from work for the weekend so sadly i wont be able to get a response from him till monday more than likely. As for flip, he's working with me the best he can.

Seems as though i have a control board issue (its new, about a month old..) Here's the issue... Irregardless of what setting i put my stove on, i still have a small flame. My Auger turns for 3 seconds..Thats it. Ive cranked the PPH up in order to achieve more pellet output, however my auger On and Off times are NOT changing. Its almost as if its STUCK on 1 specific setting. Ive tried Factory resets, Powering down, unplugging, etc. Everything ive tried gets me no successful results.

Has anyone else with a USSC, 4 button board, ran into this issue or something similar? Luckily, the board is still under warranty. lol i have a sad feeling im going to need another board. Almost as if the board has gotten a "flat spot" in its performance, or a "jam" lol All the HR settings can be gone through, i can go to HR1, and HR-9...however the auger run times do NOT change..

No, its not a combustion issue, OR a vacuum issue, if it was, my pot would be overflowing (correct?) I can manually feed pellets by holding the "on" button and i can achieve Huge flames like it should on the higher settings. however, those eventually die down to the smaller flames im currently getting.

Is the stove clean?...yes, i perform routine weekly cleanings. (every sunday). its cleaned very meticulously. using the shop vac, leaf blower trick, an air compressor and many other various tools.

Please, feel free to ask further questions, and maybe i can get this thing figured out before the weekend is up? Lets hope! lol

Thanks to all who can possibly help! Your time and suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

-Zac
 
sup folks,

Ive already messaged Owen and Sidecar flip as they are the goto guru's that ive encountered on here. Owen is probably away from work for the weekend so sadly i wont be able to get a response from him till monday more than likely. As for flip, he's working with me the best he can.

Seems as though i have a control board issue (its new, about a month old..) Here's the issue... Irregardless of what setting i put my stove on, i still have a small flame. My Auger turns for 3 seconds..Thats it. Ive cranked the PPH up in order to achieve more pellet output, however my auger On and Off times are NOT changing. Its almost as if its STUCK on 1 specific setting. Ive tried Factory resets, Powering down, unplugging, etc. Everything ive tried gets me no successful results.

Has anyone else with a USSC, 4 button board, ran into this issue or something similar? Luckily, the board is still under warranty. lol i have a sad feeling im going to need another board. Almost as if the board has gotten a "flat spot" in its performance, or a "jam" lol All the HR settings can be gone through, i can go to HR1, and HR-9...however the auger run times do NOT change..

No, its not a combustion issue, OR a vacuum issue, if it was, my pot would be overflowing (correct?) I can manually feed pellets by holding the "on" button and i can achieve Huge flames like it should on the higher settings. however, those eventually die down to the smaller flames im currently getting.

Is the stove clean?...yes, i perform routine weekly cleanings. (every sunday). its cleaned very meticulously. using the shop vac, leaf blower trick, an air compressor and many other various tools.

Please, feel free to ask further questions, and maybe i can get this thing figured out before the weekend is up? Lets hope! lol

Thanks to all who can possibly help! Your time and suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

-Zac


Have you checked the T stat jumper on the control board?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Michael6268
Is there a way to do a factory reset of the control board ?

If there is, has this been done ?
 
Is there a way to do a factory reset of the control board ?

If there is, has this been done ?
yah, did it 3 times already, its been unplugged and everything.
 
OK I responded to your PM be4 reading this. The only things I can suggest that you haven't done is this:

-Use a jumper wire on the Tstat posts, to ensure the jumper "box" is not at fault.

-Check test the pressure switch that it is functioning correctly (our electrical Eng. suggestion)

-Double check you don't have a slight vaccum issue
 
OK I responded to your PM be4 reading this. The only things I can suggest that you haven't done is this:

-Use a jumper wire on the Tstat posts, to ensure the jumper "box" is not at fault.

-Check test the pressure switch that it is functioning correctly (our electrical Eng. suggestion)

-Double check you don't have a slight vaccum issue
i have many jumpers from doing PC work in the past, i replaced it with one of mine (new from a package) to ensure the contacts hadnt lost their tightness. Same deal.

As for pressure switch, according to the diagnostics all is well. Port is cleaned and open, free of debris.

All cleanout plates are in place, Door seal is good and tight (cannot see light through it, and paper wont pull through) OAK is clean, Chimney is clean.

Im personally outta ideas. I even attmped to adjust the PPH higher to see if it would compensate at all? And it wont. Everything i do keeps the auger feeding at same ratio irregardless of what is done. Only thing i can do to achiceve more pellet feeding is manually go over and press the "ON" button. thats it.
 
Seal on the combustion fan at the flange?
Pipe sealed well at fan and connections....
get me the order info on the board then

Edit: Hose on Air switch
 
Silicone air hose is free of holes and sealed at the switch. (smoke tested it) i bottle brushed IT and the port that goes into the burn chamber. Vacuum switch seems to be workign properly as stove doesnt flash the lights and act as if its lost vacuum.

Gaskets are all good, replaced and stock spares of all my gaskets (they're cheap, so why not! lol)

its freaking weird..it acts like its stuck in thermostat mode in MY OPINION..it doesnt ramp up but my jumper is in place. I dont understand it, and im sure no one else does either. Even Flip said he was stumped. its really odd. Worked great, had a fairly decent warm week for the most part, then once the temps dropped i really really noticed it wasnt burnign correctly so i started watching my auger feed...then i realized it wasnt changing, no way, no how..so now im at this point. The ole stove does freakign GREAT in this dumpy ole school house. Thank god its still feeding at a medium rate though or id be super duper cold! lol
 
why was the board changed in the first place?
Could it be a t-stat issue, t-stat not changing state? can the signal from the stat be jumped to call for heat?
Also guessing that owen and sidecar suggfested these already
 
Board was changed cause original one was bad. Had a crack in it, wouldnt start the combustion blower unless board was already warm.

No T-stat hooked up, running without one. Owen and Flip have both tried to figure out everything they could, but none of us came up with anything at all as to WHY this board is acting the way it is. We've all agree'd that its acting like its stuck in thermostat mode...but iver never hooked up thermostat to this new board...so we're not sure. Its been reset a few times now, unplugged, shut down, etc etc..it still runs flat out as if its on HR5 irregardless of what settings i change. Freaking ODD!

Owen got in direct contact via PM, and even though its saturday, he went outta his way to get me a new board on its way. A HUGE shoutout to him for that, along with the rest of USSC. Thanks again on that note owen!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Owen1508
I had a board on my 5660 that had two cold solders on it,this is where the solder was hot enough but not the wire to make a connection I used a magnifying glass and was able to spot fine cracks in the solder joint around the wire on the board,I learned this because I had a 2000 F150 that had the famous Ford blackout on the odemeter took the dash out and after fix all was well same as the stove, Fords idea then was to replace the whole boards instead of fixing the solder joint and same as USSC,that's why now I have a spare control board free of charge for my pellet stove.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: mustangwagz
That's was mine was doing except there wasn't enough heat to keep the proof of fireswitch from shutting the stove down when it was on setting one,all of the other settings same low flame called USSC and they told me to bypass the proof of fire switch,which I had already done with an automotive fuse,they told me they recommended a paperclip,I said an automotive fuse should be better shouldn't it they had no clue what too say then.If you are handy take a look at your solder joints on the board,get a soldering pencil 2.99 at Menards and electrical solder1.99 and have a five dollar fix and the assurance of knowing you also have an extra control board for a spare.
 
Last edited:
That's was mine was doing except there wasn't enough heat to keep the proof of fireswitch from shutting the stove down when it was on setting one,all of the other settings same low flame called USSC and they told me to bypass the proof of fire switch,which I had already done with an automotive fuse,they told me they recommended a paperclip,I said an automotive fuse should be better shouldn't it they had no clue what too say then.If you are handy take a look at your solder joints on the board,get a soldering pencil 2.99 at Menards and electrical solder1.99 and have a five dollar fix and the assurance of knowing you also have an extra control board for a spare.
ill have to look at it once i tear it apart. As of now, it still keeps house warm, i just have to run the elctric heaters to help compensate for the way its running. Thanks for the info though!!
 
ill have to look at it once i tear it apart. As of now, it still keeps house warm, i just have to run the elctric heaters to help compensate for the way its running. Thanks for the info though!!

Sounds like you will get it figured out and part replaced with Flip and Owen. Do you have the Manual Draft Kit with clean outs installed? Just curious.
 
Sounds like you will get it figured out and part replaced with Flip and Owen. Do you have the Manual Draft Kit with clean outs installed? Just curious.
i do not have the manual draft slide on mine, however i do the the cleanouts installed PROPERLY on mine. They seal up very well. i had to modify them, as they would suck air a little bit when i first got it. but thats take care of. Mines from 2004, before the manual air dampner kit was available or installed from factory.
 
Oh yah, between owen and flip, the issue is being resolved. Like i said ealier, owen went outta his way to get me a board coming even though its saturday. And flip, he ALWAYS puts up with me. ALWAYS...that poor guy has always gotta pm from me. Not about the stove lately, just B/S-ing about different things. Both Of these guys are great, knowledgable ppl! Both have helped me numerous times.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.