Ussc 6041i

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Fordguy64

New Member
Aug 11, 2025
3
Okeana,ohio
So I just picked up a ussc 6041i, I was doing the research on the fresh air kit to run up the chimney next to the exhaust liner. I too the back panel off the stove today and found that the 6041i is a bit different than the 6041s. The fresh air hook up on the back of the stove goes in below the stove and it looks like it’s just open to everything under there. I found the fresh air intake hole on the back side of the burner chamber, looks like I’ll have to add my own connector like they do on the regular 6041’s. Anyone worked around this before? I also just thought about leaving the whole back panel off and connecting the 3” intake to the port on the back of the burn chamber.

Anyway this is my first pellet stoves for and I’m very excited to get it in the fireplace and replace my old wood stove.
 

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I'm not sure I understand the issue. On the back is the exhaust outlet, and fresh air intake coming out of the rear cover.
I guess you are saying that fresh air tube does not go directly into the stove, but just brings air under the stove?
You want to hook up directly to the firebox fresh air inside the covered area?
I personally would leave it as be and keep the cover on.

Is there no way you can bore a hole for fresh air from outside? If your cleanout is outside you can use that path.

From Manual:
Termination must exhaust above air inlet elevation

Why do you want to run the fresh air up the chimney? That does not sound like a good idea.
 
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so the stove i have is an insert. so its slightly different than the pedestal version. if you look at the first post in this thread you will see a short section on pipe welded to the back of the stove for the fresh air intake. mine is in the very bottom and has no way to connect to the pipe on the inside of my stove that goes to the bottom of the burn pot. My ash clean out goes into my basement with no easy way to run it to the outside. My thought was to get a "co liner" cap and run the 4" exhaust up with a 3" Fresh air. chimney is only about 13feet or so. Ive done a lot of air sealing and insulating to my house and im worried that it wont leak enough air to feed the stove.

 
Why do you want to run the fresh air up the chimney? That does not sound like a good idea.
Whitenuckler
There is a chimney made that has both exhaust and air intake in set-up (pipe)

 
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Whitenuckler
There is a chimney made that has both exhaust and air intake in set-up (pipe)

That looks good. I did know those kits exist for through-the wall applications. I guess through roof too.
The OP appears to want to run another separate pipe up his chimney
OP "the fresh air kit to run up the chimney next to the exhaust liner"
Would that even be allowed?
 
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While I have never installed a 6041i , I have installed many 6041's. Are you saying under the burn pot between the ignitor and the slide damper there is NOT a cap? (air 3) This cap is removed for the Outside Air Kit. A piece of flex pipe is installed from the back of this cap hole (air) to the back of the air outlet in the frame. (air 4) Then flex pipe is installed from the front of air outlet (air 2) to the outside of your house and yes you can run it up the chimney as long as the outlet is below the exhaust outlet. (air 5)
 

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While I have never installed a 6041i , I have installed many 6041's. Are you saying under the burn pot between the ignitor and the slide damper there is NOT a cap? (air 3) This cap is removed for the Outside Air Kit. A piece of flex pipe is installed from the back of this cap hole (air) to the back of the air outlet in the frame. (air 4) Then flex pipe is installed from the front of air outlet (air 2) to the outside of your house and yes you can run it up the chimney as long as the outlet is below the exhaust outlet. (air 5)
i do have a cap like pictured in air3. there is no opening to connect the capped fresh air intake to the cold air intake in air4. the cold air hook up on the back of the stove is open to the whole bottom where the ash pan is, lots of openings and holes in that lower pan pictured in air4. thats where my question comes in. in air2 just above the arrow you can see the little half circle on the main frame of the stove where the pedestal outside air intake would be. hopefully that makes sense. the only way to get true outside air is to put a hole in the back panel pictured in air2 or take that panel off all together and connect the outside air right to the intake pictured below the igniter in air.
 

I found a kit but no instructions. I guess the kit comes with instructions

Edit: This is only good for the stove I think....

This link has some good info: Really Good.
 
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I guess the kit comes with instructions
No instructions with kit either unless they have include since I stopped installing stoves, 10 years ago. Video shows what is in the kit. Take the complaining on vid with a grain of salt as for normal thru the wall install of USSC 6039, 6041 the two pieces of hose are enough one piece goes from back of firewall to hole in frame the the other piece goes from hole in frame to the thimble on outside house wall. Kit is not for all stoves. Most installs I did I used automotive exhaust flex pipe or carburetor preheater hose both can be purchased at local auto parts stores.

https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Pre-Heater-Diameter-Compatible-Buggy/dp/B00FB7XO6E

https://www.autozone.com/emission-c...OIX4TzcMJndjkaAiPuEALw_wcB&new_store_set=true

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No instructions with kit either unless they have include since I stopped installing stoves, 10 years ago. Video shows what is in the kit. Take the complaining on vid with a grain of salt as for normal thru the wall install of USSC 6039, 6041 the two pieces of hose are enough one piece goes from back of firewall to hole in frame the the other piece goes from hole in frame to the thimble on outside house wall. Kit is not for all stoves. Most installs I did I used automotive exhaust flex pipe or carburetor preheater hose both can be purchased at local auto parts stores.

https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Pre-Heater-Diameter-Compatible-Buggy/dp/B00FB7XO6E

https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/exhaust-repair/p/surebilt-1-1-2in-flex-exhaust-repair/402396_0_0?spps.s=5073&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:GEN:22350391884&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22356757832&gbraid=0AAAAADkcoVuRtNrBtdyj24TRFjU0bds6_&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzOvEBhDVARIsADHfJJSBJR-TcVqw99ECovZ-2MOBe0AfgXjA1BMM2MqTJVOIX4TzcMJndjkaAiPuEALw_wcB&new_store_set=true

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Ya I saw that one - not helpful except if you have the stove and want some metal pieces.
Did you have time to look at that link I posted? It seems there is a round cover they want you to punch holes in, but others take it out and install a ball valve to control air flow. For an insert I don't see that happening.
 
It seems there is a round cover they want you to punch holes in
That link is great. Cap is pictured in air 3 pic. On my 6039 I drilled four 3/8 inch holes and put cap back on. If I burn straight pellets I do not have slide damper open, control board controls how much air is being pulled through the 4 holes. If I am burning corn or corn/pellet mixture I have to open slide damper 1/2 inch for more air or use the control board to increase draft. I tried the ball valve in the cold air intake but could never get the draft tuned in right. I tried leaving the cap completely off but it burned with to much draft sucking the heat out the exhaust even though I turned down draft with control board. I think I have to much natural draft to leave cap completely off.
 

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That link is great. Cap is pictured in air 3 pic. On my 6039 I drilled four 3/8 inch holes and put cap back on. If I burn straight pellets I do not have slide damper open, control board controls how much air is being pulled through the 4 holes. If I am burning corn or corn/pellet mixture I have to open slide damper 1/2 inch for more air or use the control board to increase draft. I tried the ball valve in the cold air intake but could never get the draft tuned in right. I tried leaving the cap completely off but it burned with to much draft sucking the heat out the exhaust even though I turned down draft with control board. I think I have to much natural draft to leave cap completely off.
Boy what a difference in stove types. On my P43 all I did was twist some filler piece out and connect aluminum duct. There was a flapper valve on mine. I guess my stove has variable combustion blower speed, and likes as much air as it can get (or wants). All direct connected.
 
I guess my stove has variable combustion blower speed
The USSC 6041 has variable combustion blower speed too. No flapper but a slide damper which set at 11/2 inches out burns pellets great. The cap under the burn pot is if you want to add outside air, ie house to tight and can't draw right, house to loose and creates to many drafts, or mobile home installation (outside air required by law most states) The USSC four button control board is what makes this stove a good choice, you can control feed rates, drafts, room blower, stirrer speeds among other things. Price wise it was around $1500 when first introduced 2009 still $1700 if you can find a new one not a bad price point for a midrange multifuel burner. I think they made the outside air intake so big to burn corn as you need more air then when burning pellets and most users burn pellets now.

Your Harman is no doubt a better stove as Harman is a high quality stove maker.
 
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