utilizing liner heat, not insulating the 5 feet of flex to come out of heatilator holes...........

[woodsie8]

So here is a picture of the heatilator fireplace. I am putting in a insert with insulated double liner. It will be rigid till the last 5 feet, then flex. I was thinking of having the last 5 feet covered in k-wool but now am wondering if I should leave that 5 feet un-insulated so the heat from the liner can come out the holes from the heatilator. What do you think?

 

[struggle]

I do not know exactly what your set up is like but I have a completely unisulated 5.5 liner on an outside chimney and have had no issues so I cannot see 5' being an issue at all. I would think it will radiate heat as well.

 

[woodsie8]

Couldn't figure out how to post the picture of my heatilator, but anyway, it just makes sense that the heat would radiate out those holes, above the insert.............

 

[struggle]

There is going to be some type of a block off plate though?

To prevent the heat from just going up the chimney cavity.

 

[jtp10181]

Your "heatilator" is pretty much going to be rendered useless by the new insert. Most of the time we have to cut one or more of the tubes out in which case you should NEVER turn it on again.

I don't see any harm or bad side effects in leaving that last section uninsulated and trying your idea, but I don't think it will have very good results.

 

[woodsie8]

I did know that they will be cutting out one of the tubes, but the holes will still be there, so I thought some of the heat from the pipe could escape thru the holes. If I have them insulate that lower pipe, then the heat would not radiate out. I actually don't understand much about the block off pipe,tho.............. can someone explain more about this?

 

[STOVEGUY11]

Well if there running a full liner, then there will be a "Top Plate" on the top of the chimney. Which will be sealed and bolted to the top of your flue. Some installers do not use the block off plate at the damper.Which is just usually sheet metal cut to the size of your dmaper and bolted up into the damper frame around the pipe. Some people just use insualtion as well. Should you use a block off plate? That in itself is a debate. I have heard tons of people say yes, while others say it is not needed if it is sealed on top.

 

[Todd]

I know what your talking about. I have a heatalator fireplace with 3 tubes and if I was to put an insert in there I would definitely cut all the tubes out, and put a block off plate with insulation at the damper area to let that extra heat trapped inside to come out.

 

[woodsie8]

Pyro Extraordinaire, I thought that would be a good option! Thanks for validation I can't wait for this stove to get in....................
I actually want the winter extended, so I can burn the stove.................. lol.............
no throwing tomatoes at me ................

 

[stoveguy13]

what kind of linner system are you running that changes from rigid to flex? iam unawre of any system that you can do that with and still keep it listing.

 

[BrotherBart]

what kind of linner system are you running that changes from rigid to flex? iam unawre of any system that you can do that with and still keep it listing.

One word. DuraLiner. The UL marked instructions show flex connected to rigid in a masonry chimney installation. No different than using single wall black pipe to connect to Class A.

 

[jtp10181]

what kind of linner system are you running that changes from rigid to flex? iam unawre of any system that you can do that with and still keep it listing.

One word. DuraLiner. The UL marked instructions show flex connected to rigid in a masonry chimney installation. No different than using single wall black pipe to connect to Class A.

Yeap... that is some nice stuff. There is even a crazy $100 insulation boot you can get for the flex piece... too bad if you are doing oval liner in a 6x12 flue the flex with the insulation wont fit. We only got it down on one of them and it was because the whole chimney was block except for the very top had one 6x12 tile in it.

 

[stoveguy13]

what kind of linner system are you running that changes from rigid to flex? iam unawre of any system that you can do that with and still keep it listing.

One word. DuraLiner. The UL marked instructions show flex connected to rigid in a masonry chimney installation. No different than using single wall black pipe to connect to Class A.

Yeap... that is some nice stuff. There is even a crazy $100 insulation boot you can get for the flex piece... too bad if you are doing oval liner in a 6x12 flue the flex with the insulation wont fit. We only got it down on one of them and it was because the whole chimney was block except for the very top had one 6x12 tile in it.

I am not talking about a ridgid reline system it seem to me he is talking about droping a class system then converting to a flex for the last five feet

 

[jtp10181]

He is talking about doing a liner for a wood insert. What he describes perfectly matches DuraLiner (or something very similar). He could also be describing a Class "A" system as you mention, but I doubt it.

 

[BrotherBart]

"So here is a picture of the heatilator fireplace. I am putting in a insert with insulated double liner."

Seems pretty clear. Insert in a Heatilator.

 

[stoveguy13]

depending on what "heatilator is " is it an old generic term being used or is it a newer fireplace that wont except that chimney to it period.

 

[STOVEGUY11]

Thats a good point, heatilator has become such a generic term these days. I have people tell me almost every day they have a heatilator. When in fact they just have a pre-fab of another make, or a metal box built into there masonary. In this case it does sound like a heatilator or something similar, with vents cut out like he describes, what else could it be?

 

[woodsie8]

It is a masonary internal fireplace, with holes in the stone, above the opening, with three tubes behind them, and a fan wired in. house built in 1976.

 

[woodsie8]

yes, putting a double liner in, rigid, then flex piece to get through the damper area. I will have them put a block plate in above the heatilator holes with insulation, then if there is any heat to escape off of liner it will come out the holes. thanks for all the feedback................ I think I am ready to just hire someone and get it done..............

 

[STOVEGUY11]

yea better safe than sorry, not to say you are not capable of doing the install. Your going to love the Hampton. They kick butt.