VC Intrepid II 2070 (1996) Help

[Woodchip Elf]

We have recently acquired a Vermont Castings Intrepid II, 2070, from 1996. Two owners, minor enamel scuffs.

I've replaced the gasket at the stove pipe flue, reorientated vertically. The others were done a year ago by previous owner. No light from any seems, no major rust pockets, catalytic combster looks clean (waiting to see how it burns).

I have new dvl double wall 6" from the stove to the existing terracotta thimble and chimney. The house had a wood stove in it 25 years ago, same orientation and pipe layout. Chimney looks solid, planning on a liner next year after tax return. Terracotta is encased in brick with mortar between.

My questions are so.. I'm using a telescoping piece vertically straight from the stove into a 90° elbow. Then another telescoping piece horizontal into the chimney masonry adapter. How can I tell if the vertical piece is safely attached to the stove? I have light coming from the prefab holes in the stove, implying the pipe isn't down fully on the flue. An adapter didn't work because of the excess stove backing coming 1/3 of the way into the flue, preventing the adapter from going all the way down/in.

Secondly, the masonry adapter is dvl and snaps into the horizontal telescoping pipe, then slides smoothly into the thimble and barely daylights into the terracotta chimney liner. I've encircled the adapter and double wall seem with 5/16 gasket rope, no glue, but feels snug. Is this air tight enough and creosote/fire safe? I used double wall for the 8" clearance, that is actually 10" from pipe to ceiling.

 

[begreen]

A modern stove is much less likely to like this setup. The long horizontal run is discouraged. This looks like a potential creosote producer.
Two questions: How tall is the chimney and does the chimney have a 6" stainless liner?

 

[Woodchip Elf]

Unfortunately we cannot block the doorway with the stove, and the masonry wall is exactly where we have it sitting. I'm putting a slight slope in the horizontal piece to encourage creosote to fall back towards the stove.

The chimney is terracotta lined, 107" from daylight to bottom. 79" from daylight to where the terracotta thimble housing our newly added stainless adapter comes through. We cannot afford to use stainless liner this winter but hopefully will remedy that in the spring.

 

[bholler]

Unfortunately we cannot block the doorway with the stove, and the masonry wall is exactly where we have it sitting. I'm putting a slight slope in the horizontal piece to encourage creosote to fall back towards the stove.

The chimney is terracotta lined, 107" from daylight to bottom. 79" from daylight to where the terracotta thimble housing our newly added stainless adapter comes through. We cannot afford to use stainless liner this winter but hopefully will remedy that in the spring.

I am very doubtful that stove will work with that short of a chimney and that much horizontal run. Even if it was lined with insulated stainless I don't see how you will have enough draft to run any modern stove much less a draft sensitive one like that.

 

[Woodchip Elf]

Then it sounds like I either replace the stove with an older one, or extend the chimney upwards. Or roll the dice and see if it has a sufficient draft as is.

My original questions about the union of pipe to the stove are unanswered. Granted pointless if the chimney is too short, but I'll never know for sure if I can't ever test the setup.

 

[bholler]

Then it sounds like I either replace the stove with an older one, or extend the chimney upwards. Or roll the dice and see if it has a sufficient draft as is.

My original questions about the union of pipe to the stove are unanswered. Granted pointless if the chimney is too short, but I'll never know for sure if I can't ever test the setup.

It looks like you need a stove adapter