VC Resolute Acclaim Damper

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FrenchCrick

New Member
Jan 20, 2009
2
Rural WA
Hello, I'm new to the Forum and hope to be enlightened...
We're in our second winter using a Resolute Acclaim that was purchased used..it is our primary source of heat for a small (830 sf) off-grid home. No problems so far, except the one I am shortly to describe.
I was able to learn from the previous owner that it is an early 90's model that sat unused in an out-of-business restaurant for many years before he picked it up and replaced the refractory. I replaced the gaskets on door and lid before using, and have not replaced anything else. Starting to wonder what might need replacing come spring, hopefully not sooner!
This winter we've been home a lot more (new baby!) and have been using the stove more or less continuously since early December. It has done a great job except that for the last couple weeks, the damper has developed a problem with opening itself at random. Thankfully, this is something that happens loudly so we notice it, and we have mostly been able to correct it by putting it back (sometimes it takes a few tries to get it to stick). I've checked and found nothing blocking the opening when it happens, so I wonder if it's just "loose" somewhere from being used so much.
We're naturally concerned about having the damper open while we're away or outside, and have wondered about installing a second damper in the chimney as a backup. Of course, we'd prefer to solve the damper problem correctly.
I appreciate any thoughts from the experienced cadre!
 
Hmm,, I have to try and remember......

Ok, here is the parts diagram:
http://www.discountstove.com/0041.html

Two items of note....

On the Acclaim and on even the regular Resolutes, you have to close the damper and then keep pushing on the damper actuator rod. You are probably already doing this, but I am noting it for others also. Many people just put the damper into the closed position, but do not continue the pressure which is what puts it in a locked position.

If you are locking it, and it still opens, then you have to adjust the V shaped wedge that the damper rod rides up upon. I think there is a set screw and nut of some sort to make it so that the rod hits it harder. The parts diagram should help - see part #19
 
Most likely the reason it is looser is that the gasket is worn out.
There is an adjustment screw you could move to tighten it up a bit until you can get a new gasket but you'll still need to remove the flue collar to get at it.
If you can't shut down then I'd try to rig a length of pipe or metal conduit to keep it from opening when you don't want it to, like when you're sleeping.
19" long x 1/2"or3/4" diam. should be about right.
 
Thank You!
Soon as the stove cools down in the a.m. we will check it out and try these suggestions. Any idea what part # (on the diagram) the gasket would be? Sounds like we need to remove the flue collar to adjust the wedge the rod rides upon...meaning it's not accessible thru the front. Murphy's law for stove owners in January, I guess. Could be worse - most folks we know up here are dealing with frozen pipes and no water...
Thanks again for your prompt responses!
 
I don't think there's a part # for the gasket. I think I used the 5/16" with braided metal sheathing that they sell for the griddle. Most dealers stock it.
Be forewarned...it can be a bear to dig out all the old cement, and the access is awkward, so your stove might be down for a while. A dremel with a wire brush and goggles/dust mask will make it go quicker. Then you need to let the cement dry.
I think you might be okay finishing the season with the pipe trick I suggested. Just my $.02
 
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