VC Resolute Acclaim Gasket question

[Qcgirl]

Hello Wise Men and Women,

When I opened my stove to make my second fire of the season, the damper gasket came loose as I opened the damper door to start the fire.

I don't recall having seen this gasket before, which leads me to believe that it must be stuck on the fireback wall that surrounds the damper.
Parts # 1203588 and 1301805 on the VC Pdf parts replacement diagram, which I can't seem to find a link to.

It is hanging on one side, and preventing me from having that final click when I close the damper to lock it in place.

Is this gasket usually on the damper flap itself and I never noticed?

How to re-glue it, or replace it? If its on the back wall cast iron surround, must it be removed to re attach it?

Don't think I am up to such a repair. With heating season quickly arriving I am bumming with this development. I keep the stove in good
shape, replacing firebrick, other gaskets etc. This has me stumped and a bit "Oh No!!".

Ideas, Information? Encouragement?

Thanks,
Donna

 

[dougand3]

On my Resolute Acclaim 41, the bypass damper gasket is flat rope on the vertical wall - the damper presses against it when closed. When you open the top load door, you really can't see it but can feel it. Bypass opening is ~ 13" x 4". I'd just get 40" of flat rope gasket and hi temp adhesive - then cut to fit. VC will want, like $200 for it. LOL

 

[Qcgirl]

How to get to the vertical wall?......The gasket which is there, the loose one, is flat as a pancake, and I doubt it was doing much "gasket" work. Would hellfire and death ensue if I were to run the stove without this gasket until I can replace it.
I agree about VC and their gasket prices. About all their prices actually.

Thanks.

 

[dougand3]

To get to vertical back wall - I just opened the top load door. You could remove the flue collar but that seems like overkill to replace that gasket. You can do it more by feel than sight. Running without gasket would mean it always operates on partial bypass - not terrible. It'd be less efficient, a little smokier. Some smoke will sneak around the bypass door but most should go thru the combustion box.

 

[Qcgirl]

Thanks Fire Honor............I am less paniced than I was a couple of hours ago............Hummm.....
I shall have a good look round when the stove cools off.......its down to embers now.

Many thanks.........I shall keep you posted as this adventure unfolds.

 

[Qcgirl]

Hi Again,

I replaced the gasket yesterday, done by feel through the damper door. It went quite easily, except for a cramp in my hand from being bent around at such an odd angle for the time it took.
Now the door is tight........too tight. I adjusted the screw in the middle of the damper, which doesn't seem to do too much.
I know the gasket will flatten out with time and pressure, but for now I have to give the door a nudge with a piece of kindling at the same time I am putting pressure on the handle to get it to open.

I am hesitant to put too much pressure on the handle less I damage/snap it off with my brute strength.

How much play should loosening that screw give me?

The VC dealer I bought the gasket from in Maine was most helpful and encouraging and hardly looked at me funny at all!

Cheers,
Donna

 

[jharkin]

It could be tight because of a buildup of old cement under the new gasket. When I do replacements, even if the old casket crumbles out, the old cement often stays tightly lodged in the groove. It usually takes a couple hours with a dremel grinding bit to get all the old cement out and down to bare metal. Then the new gasket rope fits down into the channel, not on top of it.

If you cant adjust enough with the screw the guaranteed fix (but a lot of work) is to take the flue collar off so you can get at the b ack of the upper fireback and really grind out the old gasket and glue and redo it. I know its not what you wanted to hear but it will probably do the trick...