I recently ordered a timber ridge 49trcpm from amfm energy and now I'm looking into vent options. My original plan was to use the Simpson corn vent that they suggest however I'd like to install the stove in a corner and I can't for the life of me find a 45 degree angle adapter that says that it can be used with this system. Any schooling for this wet behind the ears diyer will be warmly welcomed even if it's suggesting a completely different vent system.
vent install advice?
- Thread starter nitrohog
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Owen1508
Minister of Fire
http://www.amazon.com/33045-3Ft-Deg...96617814&sr=1-1&keywords=simpson corn vent 45
here's a link to one on Amazon
here's a link to one on Amazon
if you have your heart set on Simpson, here is the link to their pellet vent products. you will find the catalogs in the literature sections. these will give you part numbers which you can google and find for sale.
(broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/ProductCategory.aspx?c=14)
i have to warn you that Simpson vents can leak if not installed perfectly, so you might have to add high temp silicone to the seams of the joints or high temp foil tape for HVAC.
you can search threads here to find a consensus on Simpson pipe.
i started with Simpson and then went to Excel ICC pipe, which is not a multi-fuel. no matter, because i only burn wood pellets. but if you are going to burn multifuels, then you need something that can handle the corrosive power of corn.
good luck.
(broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/ProductCategory.aspx?c=14)
i have to warn you that Simpson vents can leak if not installed perfectly, so you might have to add high temp silicone to the seams of the joints or high temp foil tape for HVAC.
you can search threads here to find a consensus on Simpson pipe.
i started with Simpson and then went to Excel ICC pipe, which is not a multi-fuel. no matter, because i only burn wood pellets. but if you are going to burn multifuels, then you need something that can handle the corrosive power of corn.
good luck.
This is precisely the helpful information that I sought, thank you gentlemen. I did intend to assemble it with high temperature silicone and I have found that burning corn definitely limits my choices on what pipe I can safely use.
Lake Girl
Moderator
Bio-vent has multi-fuel venting but it is a little pricier. Sealing joints is not a problem as they have silicone gaskets...
(broken link removed) page 31
(broken link removed)
will likely have to call as they don't list multi-fuel piping (just pellet) but the wall kit is for multi-fuel.
(broken link removed) page 31
(broken link removed)
will likely have to call as they don't list multi-fuel piping (just pellet) but the wall kit is for multi-fuel.
I happened across the Simpson bio kit for $118 at lowes and figured I would happily seal it with rtv for that. I also ordered a 45° adapter. The only thing I need to do is build a hearth and install everything. I'm getting pretty excited to eliminate a lot of my heating oil cost and have a nice warm heat to enjoy on the cold winter months all fueled by corn from the family farm.
Lake Girl
Moderator
You've read up on how to screen the corn and additives (ground oyster shells I think)? Side benefit of being able to heat with what you grow
Bioburner from MN burns corn so if you need any pointers...
Make sure you have both smoke and CO detectors. You also want to get a surge protector.
Bioburner from MN burns corn so if you need any pointers...Make sure you have both smoke and CO detectors. You also want to get a surge protector.
I did know that you need to screen out the pieces of cob and stalk but I've honestly never heard of the additives, only of mixing in some pellets. I do have both detectors and need to get a surge protector. The little motors are expensive for how slow they spin haha.
Lake Girl
Moderator
I think the oyster shells are for when you burn straight corn - saw it mentioned in an on-line manual somewhere along the line. Post up some pics when you get the install done How big of a house are you heating? If it's an old farm house, it may still need some help...
How big of a house are you heating? If it's an old farm house, it may still need some help...I'll try to grab some pics of the install and definitely finished pics. I'm only heating a roughly 1200 square foot bungalow with 10' ceilings however, I am being forced to install it at the very south end of the house in what is currently my three season room due to space constraints. Luckily the room is fully insulated, it just simply doesn't have any heat vents in it.
like Lakegirl said, it's always good to post a new thread with pictures and layouts before installing. you will get good feedback and if something is not right, it has a better chance of being mentioned.
Alright, this is currently my three season room. It is fully insulated with reasonably efficient windows in it, it simply doesn't have any heater ducts for whatever reason. The plan is to cut the corner out of the carpet, build a hearth with a cement board base and ceramic tile over it. I'd like to run the chimney out of the wall to the left in the pictures which is an east facing wall. I'm planning on using the rise that the simpson kit comes with to avoid the sooty snow that I have seen with other installations simply for looks and to prevent the dog from coming in covered in soot everyday.
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Owen1508
Minister of Fire
Yeah lake girl is right on the money. Oyster shells (or chicken scratch) helps with clinkers when burning 100% corn. About a handful or two per hopper. You can adjust from there. With a good mix of pellets it's not needed.
I planned on playing with mixing some pellets to experiment with heat output and efficiency as well but a handful of oyster shells surely couldn't hurt either. I believe I read that with an agitator and a cast iron burn pot it isn't necessary but I believe the stove that I ordered has either a stainless or a welded steel pot.
Mt Bob
Minister of Fire
I think you should look at the selkirk dt-m,and have preheated combustion air.Your stove would be much happier.
Alright, this is currently my three season room. It is fully insulated with reasonably efficient windows in it, it simply doesn't have any heater ducts for whatever reason. The plan is to cut the corner out of the carpet, build a hearth with a cement board base and ceramic tile over it. I'd like to run the chimney out of the wall to the left in the pictures which is an east facing wall. I'm planning on using the rise that the simpson kit comes with to avoid the sooty snow that I have seen with other installations simply for looks and to prevent the dog from coming in covered in soot everyday.
Not sure of the layout of the room or the house, but if there is a door way to the room, and how far removed the room is, then you might have trouble moving the heat to the rest of the house, especially if you want to heat the whole home.
My parents have a bungalow, 1250 sq, ranch, early 70s build, insulation is so so. The stove is in the cathedral ceiling living/dining room, and it still takes the ceiling fan moving and a big fan in the hallway to get the heat to the bedrooms in the back. Usually the living room needs to reach 74 degrees to get 67 in the back bedrooms. But 78 in living room is the magical number and the rooms in the back get to 72-74.
good luck.
It definitely is not the ideal location by any stretch of the imagination. This room it's at the far end of the house, has a cathedral ceiling, and the heat will have to travel through a doorway. Luckily the house is full of fans and I have had reasonable luck cooling the house with a window air conditioner in this room in the past.
I received my stove yesterday and two of the 45 degree vent bends ($25 on eBay) the day before. I think I have collected all of the supplies I need to build a hearth, so now all that I need is time and a new fiber board for the stove that got damaged in shipping.
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
Owen1508
Minister of Fire
It looks like a nice stove but customer service leaves a lot to be desired at the moment. I called yesterday about the broken fiber board and waited on hold for 20 minutes before I had to get back to work, I sent them an email over 24 hours ago with no reply, and now waited on hold for 45 minutes only to hear a click and to get disconnected... I'd hate to see how hard it is to get in contact with them during peak heating season.
Give them time, Englander has a very good reputation helping out customers with their products. I am sure they will come through for you.
Did you call Englander or AMFMENERGY?
Also, check the installation instructions on how close you can get that exhaust to the window. You might need to keep it very close to the corner.
Also, check the installation instructions on how close you can get that exhaust to the window. You might need to keep it very close to the corner.
I emailed amfm first and they responded almost immediately. They told me to have Englander take care of it. I never got through on the phone with Englander and it took almost two days to receive an email back but they did say that they would take care of it. I'm becoming more concerned with the vent placement in conjunction with the windows as well I'm wondering if it would be better without a rise or if I should just hug the outside of the corner.
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