Vent Liner question or problem?

[Gary134]

I am waiting on my new wood insert to arrive in a few months. Backordered ! I am a DIY person on everything I possibly can my 60 years. I am gathering all the information I can on installing my SS Liner when it warms up in NC b4 the insert arrives. My fireplace is very large 32x47 at the front with a flue system the same. I will be able to remove the damper and push handle easily with no demolition. All bolted in. I can see all the way to the top easily when getting in the firebox. It looks like the liner is 10x10 at least. I have not been on the roof yet to confirm. Insert calls for a 6 inch liner. The damper gap is 6 and 1/8 clearance when removed. I could do a little grinding and gain another 1/4 inch without damaging the original damper setup.
Now for my problem...the top of my chimney is capped with as you can see in attached pictures. I do not think I can get the liner in from the top. Will a flexible one make that tight angle under the cap ? I am guessing it's around a 18 inch hole height.
With as much of a straight shot it is looking up the chimney, has anyone ever put a liner in from bottom up (backwards) ? It is 27 feet to the top. There is no way I am going to pull the cap off. Any help, direction, education would be much appreciated.

 

[begreen]

Yes, bottom-up can and has been done. It helps to have 2 people doing the job. The liner should be insulated, but there's plenty of room. It might be tricky getting the top plate in place. This is what holds the liner and seals out the weather. If the side hole is 18" it should fit, but this is one of those measure twice situations. A cardboard mockup should help if it's close.

 

[Gary134]

Yes, bottom-up can and has been done. It helps to have 2 people doing the job. The liner should be insulated, but there's plenty of room. It might be tricky getting the top plate in place. This is what holds the liner and seals out the weather. If the side hole is 18" it should fit, but this is one of those measure twice situations. A cardboard mockup should help if it's close.

Thanks for input.
My chimney is exposed all for sides in the house to the ceiling. Only the part above the roof is exposed to temperature swings. Do you think I would be ok not being insulated outside the creosote advantages of insulated?
Insert coming is a Osburn 2700 Matrix.
I am in NC so it’s not nearly the cold temperatures that you have in your area.

 

[bholler]

Thanks for input.
My chimney is exposed all for sides in the house to the ceiling. Only the part above the roof is exposed to temperature swings. Do you think I would be ok not being insulated outside the creosote advantages of insulated?
Insert coming is a Osburn 2700 Matrix.
I am in NC so it’s not nearly the cold temperatures that you have in your area.

Does your chimney have the required 2"of clearance between the outside of the masonry structure and any combustible materials? If not (which most don't) you need to insulate the liner

 

[Gary134]

It’s a post and beam construction Hearth Stone house.
I believe there is 3 inches airspace near the roof beams on both sides like pictured with fire board too.
If insulated is best I will go that way not trying to really short cut but the insulated liner will be tough bottom up with 6 3/8 space max at the damper after some grinding.

 

[EbS-P]

Make sure you get the flue good and clean bed the liner. I would insulate if you have the space and use the wire mesh net to pull liner up with rope and maybe a make shift well crank. A loop of rope for the top cap. Solid rod through both ends of the loop under the top plate and wind the pulling rope around the rod.

I had one small offset. It took me my sister up too and my 67 year old father pulling from the bottom to get it through my 12x12. FWIW

Evan