Venting a Pellet Stove Through a (sealed) Door Transom

[scelder]

I've been researching hearth.com for a long while to try and find a good solution to my heating woes. Here's my plan -- ANY thoughts are much appreciated!

I live in a 3500 sq ft solid brick 1830 Greek Revival home. The home is a square, two rooms on either side of a large central hallway which has exterior doors on each end. I have 12' ceilings, and an open stairwell to the second floor in the hallway. There is a fireplace (four total) in each room, on the exterior wall.

I'm looking to supplement my heating with a pellet stove. From my research, running 45" of 4" chimney pipe would cost at least $500-750 in materials (plus installation). I'm VERY wary of busting out through the back of one of my existing fireboxes for a direct vent (14" of solid brick!), and given the location of each chimney, it would not be an optimal set-up for heating a large area.

HOWEVER, the central hallway would be a very good location for heat distribution. There is an exterior door at each end of the hallway, surrounded by a transom and side-lights set in a wood frame. I understand that codes & manufacturers recommend against install near doors/windows due to back-gassing and CO2 dangers.

My thought: a semi-permanent winter-only installation of the pellet stove. I would "seal" the door (lock, remove doorknob, etc., effectively turning it into a wall. The sidelights are sealed and not designed to open, so no danger of CO2 (do they still count as windows for code purposes? I live in the country, may not matter either way . . . ).

I would remove the transom window and fill in that space with a "wall" of two exterior-grade OSB sheets, insulation, and a thimble in the center. I would set the pellet stove in front of this door, and run the pipe through the thimble and out of the house. If necessary, I could drill a smaller hold in the bottom of the door for an OAK.

Does rendering the door inoperable and utilizing the thimble in this direct-vent scenario take care of any potential problems with this set-up? Am I missing anything crucial?

 

[scelder]

Additionally, I'm looking for the largest pellet stove heating capacity for the least cost -- looks like the $999 to $1250 Lowes / Home Depot machines fit that bill, but any other recommendations are appreciated.

I'm hoping to pay cash for a stove and do the install myself to save on money -- otherwise I would be looking at a prettier Harmon for a longer-term heater. I don't need any bells and whistles right now, just a reliable heater and an install that is both safe and reversible.

 

[johnpma]

Anything is doable but probably would not pass with a building inspector. Be sure there are no windows above the exhaust point.

 

[Owen1508]

IMO the side light since they do not open aren't an issue. The door if sealed, would then become non opening. You plan on using the transom window above the door for venting. The termination should be at least 1 foot above any door or window (NFPA 211 10.4.5). Some owners manuals state an opening door/window. If the transom is large enough to accommodate the one foot all the better. it could be an ok install. Before I would do it I would check with the local code enforcement or the agency that would have to approve the install first. The more info and drawings/photos you bring the better. if you know the stove you want copies of the owners manual would be advised as well. Other will chime in in a few I hope. I'd like to hear some of the others ideas on this as well. I'm sure a pic of the door in question would help.

Edit: as Johnpma said the min. is 4 feet below and either side of any window as well.

 

[scelder]

Attached are interior & exterior pictures of the doorway in question. From the exterior, it's somewhat difficult to tell, but the second-story window would be at least 4' above the termination of the pellet chimney.

As for "approvals" and "code inspectors" -- I'm not entirely sure that rural Indiana has such things. When I installed a wood insert in one of the old chimneys, I called my insurance asking what sort of inspections they needed. He only asked : "Did you build the stove yourself? No? Ok, you're fine."

 

[TimfromMA]

I would suggest getting the smallest stove that will still heat the area you want. Since stoves are more efficient the hotter they are, you would be better off with running a small stove on high vs a large stove on low.

 

[scelder]

Another picture:


The transom itself is about 1 1/2', with an additional 4 inch sill between the top of the door and the bottom of the transom glass. So -- if the thimble were exiting at the topmost part of the transom (where the arrow points), I would already be 1" above the door, whether it was functioning or not. And again, most likely 4" away from the bottom of the window directly above.

I'm willing block up both the door and the window above, however, if necessary (as mentioned above, build a panel of OSB with studs & insulation, basically a panel of a modern wall) to accomplish the best install & not drill through brick.

This winter was COLD and the wood stove doesn't burn when I'm not there throwing wood on it!

 

[Owen1508]

based on everything, as long as you follow the OM and check clearances it should be good to go. Love to see pics when done.

 

[scelder]

Thanks for the input, Owen -- it's clearly an usual situation, and I want to make sure I have the right idea before I go about hacking into an historic home.

 

[Owen1508]

Yeah it's an different install but I have seen much much worst and crazier. You might want to make a template of the stove you'd like and set it on the floor with all the clearances. Just to see how it would effect the passage around and by the stove. It's good that you investigated it first. So many people just go into HD, Lowes and TSC and buy a unit , never read the instruction and install it all jacked up then call when it doesn't work as they thought. On new self-installed stoves almost all the issues are bad installs. This one is far from one of those. looking forward to an update.

 

[Papelletman]

Personally I do not think that is a good idea for more than one reason. What if you needed to exit that door in an emergency and there is no way to open it? My house is cinder block with stucco on the outside and plaster walls inside, my hammer drill went right through it no problem. If you don't have one you can rent one, or pay a concrete guy to drill the hole for you.

 

[Mt Bob]

I would suggest getting the smallest stove that will still heat the area you want. Since stoves are more efficient the hotter they are, you would be better off with running a small stove on high vs a large stove on low.

Tim where did you come up with that?Some stoves may be as you say,but most should not be run on high for extended periods.Harmans and other stoves are very efficient at lower settings.

 

[railfanron]

Code will require two exits to the house. If you block the one will you still have two?
Ron

 

[Mt Bob]

Are those baseboards electric?

 

[Owen1508]

Code will require two exits to the house. If you block the one will you still have two?
Ron

That is a valid issue
From what he has said in the post and the photos, he has a least 3 other exits.
It would be my last choice of a location for a stove, but he lives there and I guess it suits his needs best. Like the OP said unusual situation

 

[scelder]

Bob -

Those are older (c. 1950s) hot-water copper finned baseboards. The whole system for 3500 ft only has two thermostats and the fuel oil boiler is shot (not to mention several leaks in the lines) so those are out for the time being. I'm keeping them in place for now in case an OWB ever becomes an option for me.

Owen & Ron --

I have three exit doors now, and would have two following the install. I also have seven 8-ft windows for egress on the first floor.


I spoke with a local fire marshal & code enforcer (though not the one for my particular county), explained the issue, and he said he would have no problem approving it if it were in his city jurisdiction.

I've also laid out the set-up for a local chimney installer who thought it reasonable as well.

So, looks like I'll be going for it. Thanks to everyone for their input -- I'll certainly post pictures once I complete the install.