Venting Installation Advice - Installation Order

[Clarkbug]

Good Morning Everyone.

My stove has finally arrived intact (after the first one got mangled in shipping...), so its install time.

I have been thinking through the order of operations, or probably over thinking it is a better word...

My intent is to horizontal vent, with a rise outside. Im using the Duravent kit, which comes with all of the bits and pieces I think Ill need. Im going straight out the wall, so dont need to 45 or anything like that.

My question is that I dont know the best way to get the piping connected properly and have everything lined up. Does it make sense after I have the wall thimble in place to set the stove, pass the venting through and then just push it onto the stub? Or do I put a length of piping on the stove and then try to wrestle the whole thing backwards into place? Might be silly, but I am just wondering how others have handled this step so I dont spend hours re-thinking the best way to make it happen.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Washed-Up]

On the stoves I’ve installed, I used high temp silicone to attach the appliance adaptor onto the tailpipe/stub and let it set up for 24 hrs, then cut the wall and installed the thimble, without securing it t the wall. This way I was able to move the thimble a bit in order to find the necessary height for the piping. Mocked it all up without taping or sealing to make it work. Once it was all in, I took it all apart, numbering each piece from the stove back and then foil taped each joint as I twist locked each piece as I put it back together. The thimble was screwed into the wall once I had the pipe all ready to go.

 

[Mt Bob]

Again,I highly recommend going up then out, in case you ever change out the stove. Up can always go up more on the outside.

 

[johneh]

What Mt Bob said

 

[Clarkbug]

My thought was to go out then up for ease of cleaning later on. With the T outside that keeps any fly ash out there, and makes it easier to run a cleaning brush through it. But that is a good point about flexibility for the future. In my case this is a planned limited-time installation ahead of/part of some other home improvements, so most likely Ill change the wall before I change the stove...

Was thinking of just drilling a big hole in the wall with a hole saw, but the duravent instructions are saying to frame out a section. Might be a little more cutting than I had first planned on.

 

[Ocelot]

The flexibility of changing the stove in the future is definitely correct. I just went through that this year when I replaced our old Englander EP-25 with A Harman P43. The Englander's exhaust was on the left side and the Harman's is in the middle and a bit higher so I had to move the exhaust thimble.

That said, although it was a pain in the butt to relocate the exhaust, I'm still glad I did it that way rather than up and out because there are benefits to out and up and drawbacks to up and out. At least for me anyway. For me, I much prefer the cleanout T on the outside. Much easier for me to clean and no soot and ash inside while doing it. I also prefer the look of no pipe rising inside between the stove and wall and it allows me to have only 3 inches between the back wall and the back of the stove (my stove is 2" minimum clearance) In our living room, that makes a big difference compared to what it would be with the pipe coming up behind the stove which would probably be another half a foot. I also had made up an adapter for my gas leaf blower that connects right up to the cleanout T outside and I was doing that every ton or so. Although, the way the ash path is straight out in the Harman compared to all the twists, turns, and hidden and inaccessible areas the Englander had, I may never need to use the leaf blower on the Harman. It made a huge difference on the Englander and was practically required. The leaf blower before and after difference in the burn quality was huge on the Englander.

Ray

 

[SidecarFlip]

I'm with you Ray, 100% and you can always change the height of the exhaust by adding or subtracting bricks added on top the hearth pad or in my case bricks on bricks because my hearth pad is built into the flooring.

I always prefer the cleanout on the outside and last time I set a unit I attached a straight length of venting, slid the unit to the wall, took a grease pencil and market around the pipe and opened the hole up, then enlarged it for the wall thimble.

Not all that heavy to scoot around to line up, least none of the one's I've set are.

I strive for the minimal amount of venting inside but still allowing unfettered access to the back panel. There is nothing worse than playing contortionist trying to access the rear of a unit when cleaning it. besides, I'm too old to bend that way....

In my case I have 3 foot of venting inside, basically a straight shot to the outside cleanout Tee and with me running corn, the outside Tee is almost a necessity as corn produces quite a bit of fly ash. I have to pop the cleanout cap weekly and empty it. Wouldn't want to be doiing that in a house for sure.

 

[Clarkbug]

Well I got the stove and piping in. I thought I was doing well until I caught the edge of where a stud was, so had to make a bit of a shift and I think Im in good shape. Its not the easiest thing to have to move and adjust and shimmy and all of that other good stuff, but so far so good.

Im getting a big of smoke smell in the house on startup, but not sure if that is just coming in from outside (house is pretty drafty) or if I just need to seal the joints with some tape.

I also think that I have some really crappy pellets in the hopper right now that are not the best to use as a trial run for smoke. Ill burn those up and get something new to try and see if that gives me better results Thanks for the help!

 

[SidecarFlip]

Use the foil tape and tape the joints when warm, not cold. You might want to check to make sure the exhaust plenum is securely fastened to the firebox. I discovered that when refurbishing the 6039 I just finished. The Tek screws the were used to fasten the plenum to the firebox were all loose, got a turn out of each of all 5 used.

Could be it's just stinking a bit too. Stoves are fabbed from sheet steel and lots of times that steel will have what is called 'pickling oil' on it to retard corrosion in storage and when heated by the fire, it will smoke and stink. Last time I did a new stove, I fired it up in the driveway and ran it at maximum feed for an hour or so to 'get the stink out'.

I never taped any of the outside joints, only those inside.

 

[Clarkbug]

Use the foil tape and tape the joints when warm, not cold. You might want to check to make sure the exhaust plenum is securely fastened to the firebox. I discovered that when refurbishing the 6039 I just finished. The Tek screws the were used to fasten the plenum to the firebox were all loose, got a turn out of each of all 5 used.

Could be it's just stinking a bit too. Stoves are fabbed from sheet steel and lots of times that steel will have what is called 'pickling oil' on it to retard corrosion in storage and when heated by the fire, it will smoke and stink. Last time I did a new stove, I fired it up in the driveway and ran it at maximum feed for an hour or so to 'get the stink out'.

I never taped any of the outside joints, only those inside.

Thanks for the advice!

I think I have some high temp tape in the basement somewhere (or I lent it out...hmmmm) and Ill wait until its warm and slap it on there. If it persists, Ill pull a side panel and see if the fasteners are all snug.

I thought it might just be burning off the paint and oil, but it definitely smelled like a wood smoke instead of a paint/chemical smoke. Only get a whiff of it, so might just be taking a second until there is a bit of draft or something.... Ill have to spend some more time and get a few more fires to know for sure.

 

[rickwai]

Well I got the stove and piping in. I thought I was doing well until I caught the edge of where a stud was, so had to make a bit of a shift and I think Im in good shape. Its not the easiest thing to have to move and adjust and shimmy and all of that other good stuff, but so far so good.

Im getting a big of smoke smell in the house on startup, but not sure if that is just coming in from outside (house is pretty drafty) or if I just need to seal the joints with some tape.

I also think that I have some really crappy pellets in the hopper right now that are not the best to use as a trial run for smoke. Ill burn those up and get something new to try and see if that gives me better results Thanks for the help!

If you bought the box store kit you need to seal the joints. Back in the day we use to fill the gap with silicone than twist lock and still a seem leak at times at the ells and tee's. The Pelletvent Pro has a smooth shell and seals w/ orings instead of rope. What you have will work you just have to tinker with it.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Do keep in mind that once you fill the gap with red RTV, the sections will NEVER come apart again, which is why I suggest foil tape instead.

For me, it's imperative that mine come apart so I can clean them and reassemble them. For you, maybe not, but for me it is.