Vermont Castings Defiant - 2013

[Elle Barrasi]

I had a new Defiant installed in January 2013. It has never held a temperature consistently from day one. Typical burn is 2 hours max, from 575 degrees to 450. I shared this issue several times with the shop owner who sold it to me and he was little help. Spoke to the installer as well. Initially there was a gap between the oval-to-round converter (which was sealed but didn't make a difference in burn time still). Assuming I am running the stove properly (because I read the manual inside and out several times, along with much research, and I've had other stoves before), and assuming that the stove is air tight and in perfect working order (will give VC the benefit of the doubt here), what other reason or reasons cause the Defiant not to hold its temperature for 2 hours, let alone the 10-14 people boast about? I have very good draft. If it makes a difference, I have a 6" stove pipe through a large center chimney. Thank you.

 

[webby3650]

How exactly do you define a burn time? The temp will peak out and then slowly fall throughout the entire burn. A burn time usually is from the time you strike the match until it's burned down to embers.

 

[begreen]

Which model number stove is this? Is the bypass being closed once the stove is burning well?

 

[Charles1981]

If it is a new model from 2013 it is a 2n1 or flex burn models.

Are you saying you have a stove full of wood and then within 2 hours it is coals only and you have to reload again?

Where are you taking the temperature of the stove (The top access griddle, stove pipe, else where).

What kind of wood are you burning? Hardwood or softwood? What species do you know?

Do you ever run the stove all day and night? Sometimes if you only fill the stove up once or half way and light one fire and let it go out the stove doesn't really get a chance to to heat up itself, then heat of the surroundings, and then really start feeling the heat output. If can feel like the stove is behaving very differently if running continuously rather than have one fire a night.

As already asked and are important questions 1) you are letting the stove get up to temperature and then closing the left handle correct?

 

[Elle Barrasi]

How exactly do you define a burn time? The temp will peak out and then slowly fall throughout the entire burn. A burn time usually is from the time you strike the match until it's burned down to embers.

 

[Elle Barrasi]

How exactly do you define a burn time? The temp will peak out and then slowly fall throughout the entire burn. A burn time usually is from the time you strike the match until it's burned down to embers.

Perhaps burn time is the wrong term. Once the temperature has reached 450 approximately (this could take no more than 30 minutes if rolling stove), and the catalytic converter has been engaged, the "time" it reaches 575 and then back down to 400, is typically no more than 2 hours but of course it depends upon when I engaged the catalytic. I've tried engaging at 400, 500, 575 with various air flows many, many times to find the right balance. Once it is back down to 400, it will stay there for another hour max, then go to 350. At this point, if I'm around, I have to open up air all of the way to bring back to 400 at least; or if sleeping then it runs with catalytic engaged with temps at 350 most of the night, which isn't good of course. Basically it seems the stove needs constant attention, and puts out little heat. If it could run at 550 for 6-8 hours I would be thrilled. Is this impossible?

 

[Elle Barrasi]

Which model number stove is this? Is the bypass being closed once the stove is burning well?

This is the 1975 and the catalytic (?bypass) is closed at approximately 450 most of the time. If I close at 400, it can stay there for awhile, but then it seems there is very little heat for such a large stove. I've had more heat from smaller stoves.

 

[Elle Barrasi]

If it is a new model from 2013 it is a 2n1 or flex burn models.

Are you saying you have a stove full of wood and then within 2 hours it is coals only and you have to reload again?

Where are you taking the temperature of the stove (The top access griddle, stove pipe, else where).

What kind of wood are you burning? Hardwood or softwood? What species do you know?

Do you ever run the stove all day and night? Sometimes if you only fill the stove up once or half way and light one fire and let it go out the stove doesn't really get a chance to to heat up itself, then heat of the surroundings, and then really start feeling the heat output. If can feel like the stove is behaving very differently if running continuously rather than have one fire a night.

As already asked and are important questions 1) you are letting the stove get up to temperature and then closing the left handle correct?

There is plenty of wood left in box after two hours, but I would have to add more anyway at that point and be careful not to over fire by keeping air open at only 50 percent or less. Closing off air much more than that will smolder fire and reduce temp to 350 faster.

Taking temp at top, middle of access griddle.

Burning Home Fire Prest Logs and seasoned oak.

I'm trying to run the stove all day and night but it needs refueling or more air every two hours to maintain 450-550.

 

[Charles1981]

With my encore (same flex burn design just a smaller firebox) I reliably have to let the stove top griddle temp get to 500-550 and there really isn't to big of a problem letting it creep to 600 before I close the bypass damper (left handle).

The stove will cruise for a good 4-5 hours @ 550-600 if I leave the right air control handle open all the way (pulled forward) and will really pump out heat. However from time to reload to the time I am left with coals will be the 4-5 hours.

Are you seeing the catalyst fire off in the back of the stove? You can frequently see a very bright yellow/orange line around the cover plate and tell the Catalyst is active.

If reload the stove, let the griddle get to 550-600 or so and then back the stove down to say 3/4 closed over 10 minutes or so the stove will quickly come down to 450-500 and cruise there for 6-8 hours no problem (from full firebox down to 3-4 inches of coals). Without having to touch it.

I really feel like you should get similar results as do many others.

If anything these stoves default is to run extremely hot, and run away from people, and accumulate damage due to overheating than anything.

To me, it sounds like the firebox and catalyst chamber are having great difficulty maintaining combustion temperatures. This is why the temperature of the griddle drops so markedly in short periods of time and the fire starts to smoulder.

To me, it sounds like you have unseasoned wet wood possibly and while you can get the stove up to temperature upon reload, when you close the bypass and try to cut down the air the stove temp drops and the catalyst stalls, otherwise your stove should cruise like a beast.

I also don't know how these type of stove are at burning firelogs either

I would try purchasing some scrap untreated lumber at the big orange or blue box store and reloading the stove with that wood for a load or two (shouldn't cost you more then a few bucks). I would expect this wood to burn very hot and the stove to maintain its temperature very well. If it does it would suggest your wood is moist and having difficulty burning.

Other Ideas:
1) Is the stove located in a room with cathedral ceilings or a basement?
2) You could have a poor draft and this type of stove really needs a good draft. Your chimney is lined with a stainless steel liner correct? all the way to the roof? It isn't just halfway up the chimney is it? You seem to be happy with your draft however.
3) There could always be an issue with the stove manufacture wise but this would be the last resort I would come to.