Vermont Castings Encore air damper adjustment

[steve37]

I have a 10 year old Encore. While replacing the catalytic converter, realized the Refractory Assembly was damaged and needed replacement. This required removal of the right air plate. Everything is back together and convertor is working as expected. When the stove is cold the air control damper positions fine. When I start a fire and the stove is heating the air control damper will run closed. I looked on the VC site for adjustment procedure, but found none.

Any suggestions?

 

[webby3650]

The air control has a washer on the rod that runs through the side of the stove. Is it still there? That's how I remember it anyway...

 

[steve37]

The air control has a washer on the rod that runs through the side of the stove. Is it still there? That's how I remember it anyway...

I remember a washer on the bypass damper, but none on the air control damper. When I cool the stove, it's cold out there. I will check. Thx

 

[begreen]

Is it possible the thermostat spring got put on in reverse?

 

[webby3650]

The washer I'm referring to sits on the end of the rod, when the side panel gets tightened down it gives tension to your air control.

. The bar on the end of the air control rod need to be level when the panel goes on. This allows the bar on the rod to align with the stop made into the panel.

 

[steve37]

The washer I'm referring to sits on the end of the rod, when the side panel gets tightened down it gives tension to your air control.

. The bar on the end of the air control rod need to be level when the panel goes on. This allows the bar on the rod to align with the stop made into the panel.

Problem solved. I think you have a different damper connecting mechanism. When I removed the air plate I noticed the 2 bolts, holding the air plate to the outside wall were loose. Looks like I overcompensated for expansion contraction. When I reinstalled the air plate I tightened, too much. Now the damper was very difficult to move. The end of the damper rod is just a pressure connection into the stop / air plate. I then loosened the bolts slightly and everything appears to be working fine. Lesson learned, if adjusting the air damper, before removing the air plate, check tightness of the 2 air plate bolts and try adjusting those first.

 

[webby3650]

Problem solved. I think you have a different damper connecting mechanism. When I removed the air plate I noticed the 2 bolts, holding the air plate to the outside wall were loose. Looks like I overcompensated for expansion contraction. When I reinstalled the air plate I tightened, too much. Now the damper was very difficult to move. The end of the damper rod is just a pressure connection into the stop / air plate. I then loosened the bolts slightly and everything appears to be working fine. Lesson learned, if adjusting the air damper, before removing the air plate, check tightness of the 2 air plate bolts and try adjusting those first.

No, same one. I believe there was originally a washer on the end of that rod. The bolts that hold the plate on do have an effect on the rod tension, that's correct. Glad you got it figured out.