Vermont Castings Encore NC experience (so that others may learn too)

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ICY99

New Member
Sep 29, 2008
86
CENTRAL, NY
I recently found a brand new Encore NC 1450 marked down by $400 so I decided to give it a try. I was fully expecting that this would be a lifetime investment. The stove is beautiful and extremely well-crafted. All of the castings are flawless and fit perfectly. I had it for 3 weeks.

My set up:

15’ of 6” Class A chimney straight up through center of house, plus 5 ft of singlewall stove pipe with 2 45 bends…total just under 20ft

This required the optional 6” flue collar.

Rutland magnetic on center of stovetop just behind the griddle.

To make a very long and EXTREMELY FRUSTRATING story as short as possible. This thing, with medium stovetop temps (450-550) would glow in the back. It was the Inner Back where the hot secondary gasses escape. Well, The manual says that “if any part glows it is an overfire….excessive draft can cause an overfire.” So the problem was the chimney. The manual also says that for 6” chimney the MIN height should be 17 to 18 ft. Heck, I was worried that it wouldn’t draft enough. The dealer suggested a damper, so I tried it. With the damper wide open the stove would smoke into the house when I re-loaded and it would still glow even after adjusting the damper. The inner back glowed once even after I CLOSED the damper (effectively closing the chimney) and I had to stuff a glove in the air intake to shut it down. I did get it to work a few times but it was a science project each time I put wood into it and required constant attention to prevent it from glowing and to prevent the secondary burn system from stalling and thus causing smoke. The dealer continued to insist that it is all my fault and that VC are really good stoves (also would not contact VC for me, nor would they give me a contact number for VC). They even suggested that I was overfiring the stove because I was trying to heat too big an area for it. There was also mention of a butterfly damper in combination with a barometric damper. The most frustrating part is that I followed every instruction in the manual from set up to operation diligently and it still had problems. I was very angry and insisted that I trade it in for something else. I’m now getting a completely different brand.

My evaluation:

For this stove my problem was too much draft. If you are getting one of these stoves do not vent into a 6” chimney even though the manual says its ok. I think that for a given amount of air flow that this stove requires, the 6” causes the flue gases to move at a higher velocity relative to an 8” flue. This causes the hot everburn gases to slam against the inner back before they escape into the chimney (causing the glowing). The 8” collar is a very wide oval which is almost open over top of the everburn exit holes. My guess is that the hot everburn gases with a 8” flue go right up the chimney without slamming against the cast iron back first. Once the butterfly damper was installed it was a game between no glow, and stalling the everburn. I couldn't live like that.

I think this stove would work very well with an 8” flue collar vented into a reasonably tall interior masonry chimney. Before I realized that the back was glowing, the everburn seemed to run flawlessly and I was very happy with it. It would go 4 to 5 hours between loading with no smoke at all. The draft requirements are not published for this stove so how can you know if it will overfire….until…..it overfires. Of course Vermont castings has very few warranty claims on these stoves. They have no contact info so you have to go through the dealer which always blames the guy who bought it. I bet the guy at VC corporate who came up with that system gets a fat check each year.
 
When you say "inner back ... where the hot secondary gasses escape" can you be a little more specific for me? I'm trying to figure out where exactly on my stove that would be. Where did you have to stand and look to be able to see this glow? On my stove I have heat shielding covering the back of my stove so it is rather hard to see much of the back (I also have the optional flue collar heat shield which doesn't help with seeing the back). It is the "inner" part that is particularly throwing me off here I think - are you talking about somewhere inside the stove that you see glowing through the glass? Thanks - I just really am curious if I have the same glow on my stove.
 
Look at the parts list diagram in the manual. The part is actually called the Inner Back. The flue collar itself bolts onto the inner back. If you have the flue collar heat sheild the inner back will be covered and not easily visible. It is not visible looking at the front of the stove. You have to stand behind it to see it. Take the flue collar heat sheild off temporarily and check it out in the dark. If I had the flue collar heat sheild I may never have noticed the problem. It just happened to be on back order and was waiting for its delivery. You may be fine. I just happened to have the incorrect combination of conditions.
 
I'll have to take a look - I too have the 6" adapter installed (still trying to figure out what to do with the original 8" oval collar). Thus my setup may be more similar to yours than you think. I'll take a look at the parts diagram and then see how I may be able to look at the part. Will be interesting to see. I've certainly had the back (area around flue collar) very hot at times during normal operations, if your "gasses slamming against back" theory holds then it would seem very likely I would see issues as well.... funny how the reputation of these stoves keep the anxiety levels up eh?
 
Icy,

Your set up is pretty much identical to mine. In the past I too would get the occasional glow at the back. I believe I have solved it by carefully sealing the gap around the flue collar, covering the air intake 50% with aluminum duct tape & on reloads I put the two/three larger ones away from the shoe & stuff couple small ones or couple 2' branches right against the shoe. Also I only empty the ash pan every say four days (24/7 burns) which allows me to restart my fire even after 12hrs with no problem.

Another thing...the wetter the wood the harder the everburn has to work to accomplish a clean burn...the higher the temps!

Oh yeah, originally when I started reading this forum I thought that there were stoves out there that you load & forget!!! And that frustrated me...was I the only person/idiot who had to monitor (babysit) the stove for hour or two after realods (especially for overnights). But now after three yrs. of reading other posters experiences & their different stoves & have concluded that there are no such stoves "load & forget"

Hang in there!!
 
ICY99 said:
I think this stove would work very well with an 8” flue collar vented into a reasonably tall interior masonry chimney.

I believe some people here have the 8" flue set up. As for the masonry chimney (unlined) I don't ever think you would get the everburn going!

Also, get a second thermometer for the flue pipe (ideally internal) this will help you monitor the operation i.e shut the damper before she goes into thermonuclear!!
 
I agree. Woodstoves must be tended to. I thought the stove was running great until I noticed the glow. I would have no problems with it if it weren't for the glow and the fact that the glow = overfire. If the manual had said that the back ocasionally glows and that is why the heat sheild is needed, that would have been ok too. I don't use wet wood, my flue collar was tight and the stove pipe was sealed with cement to the collar. Factoring everything in, I just would never be happy with it. I'm sure it works fine for many people.
 
By all means, if you are not happy with something & are able to replace it DO IT! Just before you get the second/different unit get input from guys here ;-)
 
Same stove purchased this summer with a similar set up. I installed a flue damper and thought seriously about rigging a control for the secondary intake underneath, but have had no need. I have found that even on the coldest nights (-10 so far) and what I assume is a super draft, I can control the temp with the primary and flue damper rather quickly. I also find that I am nervous for the first hour and a half after reload and do watch it for overfire/run away. Why some glow and others don't is a mystery to me. The idea of dryer vs wettter wood is interesting as I am using mostly kiln dried with naturally dried mixed in and have not had the problem. If I was having the glowing problem and getting little support from the dealer I would seriously consider returning if that was an option however.
 
Northern NH Mike said:
Same stove purchased this summer with a similar set up. I installed a flue damper and thought seriously about rigging a control for the secondary intake underneath, but have had no need. I have found that even on the coldest nights (-10 so far) and what I assume is a super draft, I can control the temp with the primary and flue damper rather quickly. I also find that I am nervous for the first hour and a half after reload and do watch it for overfire/run away. Why some glow and others don't is a mystery to me. The idea of dryer vs wettter wood is interesting as I am using mostly kiln dried with naturally dried mixed in and have not had the problem. If I was having the glowing problem and getting little support from the dealer I would seriously consider returning if that was an option however.

Perhaps a barometric damper would have fixed the glowing, but at the same time caused increased creosote build up. There must be many factors involved in the glowing, but it must utimately come down to draft and airflow. A thermostatic type of air control which responds to everburn in some way might be the solution.
Any way that I looked at it, it just seemed my best option was to trade it in.
 
The latest VC NC units seem to be very finicky about conditions and the everburn technology seem less than well developed from all the various issues people have had with the stoves.

You're not alone here the glowing issue seems to be a common problem with this series of stove as does runaway conditions. Best advice is when buying a VC stove stay away from the everburn models until the kinks are worked out.
 
TMonter said:
The latest VC NC units seem to be very finicky about conditions and the everburn technology seem less than well developed from all the various issues people have had with the stoves.

You're not alone here the glowing issue seems to be a common problem with this series of stove as does runaway conditions. Best advice is when buying a VC stove stay away from the everburn models until the kinks are worked out.

They should send us all a check for doing important engineering research for thier next generation of stoves. My rates start at $10k per stove model per month.
 
i am still having the same problem guys.....

i built a 90 degree elbow with a foil "cap" to keep the secondary air in control....

however, even with the sec. air 75% closed my external stack temps are about 300-350, and i will still have the glow on the same inner panel. those temps are at 12 inches off the stove top. no other parts of my stove get any where near hot enough to turn red. if my stack temps fall below 200-250 it stalls and smokes. keeping this stove between 250 and 300 at the stack is more work than it's worth.

i've contacted the business i bought this off of and they emailed "tech" with my problems, who initially said it was my door gaskets, or my stove was dropped and cracked. i checked those "possibilities" out and said NO. I further explained my problem and "tech" said my stove "may" be missing an important piece that was meant to protect my inner back or grate back. hmmmm that makes me suspicious! any way, i am having my installer come out and inspect my stove and report back to the vendor who will talk to "tech" again.

this is very frustrating! VC needs to pony up and recall these stoves before someone's house burns, possibly killing people or pets... if this happens to me... you will all see me on the news as " A mad man holds CEO's hostage"
 
Draft is going to vary dramatically depending on the flue and the outside temps. A good stove must be able to deliver good results under these variables. I'm sad to see that this problem continues with the NC stoves from VC. At heart it seems to be a classic case of a lab tested stove that was not subjected to a lot of variables that represent normal installations. The end result is a stove that works well in situations that match the lab conditions, but often perform poorly in the real world.
 
this is my favorite part of the manual. yeah so overfiring CAN BE a user caused problem.... but in our case... i feel it's a design flaw and therefore, "CFM's" neglect has had lead to a failure of some of their products thus causing the user to void their warranty unknowingly.... WTF

ARE THERE ANY LAWYERS ON HERE???


2. This warranty does not cover misuse of the stove.
Misuse includes overfiring, which will result if the stove
is used in such a manner as to cause one or more of
the plates to glow red. Overfiring can be identified later
by warped plates and areas where the paint pigment
has burned off. Overfiring in enamel stoves is identified
by bubbling, cracking, chipping and discoloration
of the porcelain enamel finish. CFM Corporation offers
no warranty on chipping of enamel surfaces. Inspect
your woodburning stove prior to accepting it for any
damage to the enamel
 
trailblaze said:
this is my favorite part of the manual. yeah so overfiring CAN BE a user caused problem.... but in our case... i feel it's a design flaw and therefore, "CFM's" neglect has had lead to a failure of some of their products thus causing the user to void their warranty unknowingly.... WTF

ARE THERE ANY LAWYERS ON HERE???

Trailblaze...... I feel your pain. Believe me. The draft requirements should not balance on the head of a pin. Thats the problem with these corporations. They get their lawyers to write up documents so that its never their fault and deny any wrong doing. VC KNOWS there's a problem with the glowing. Sickening and dishonest to say the least....
 
trailblaze said:
i am still having the same problem guys.....

i built a 90 degree elbow with a foil "cap" to keep the secondary air in control....

however, even with the sec. air 75% closed my external stack temps are about 300-350, and i will still have the glow on the same inner panel. those temps are at 12 inches off the stove top. no other parts of my stove get any where near hot enough to turn red. if my stack temps fall below 200-250 it stalls and smokes. keeping this stove between 250 and 300 at the stack is more work than it's worth.

Blaze,

Are these temps taken with a magnetic thermo. placed on a single wall pipe?
 
That is what I thought. I have my thermo. placed on the oval connector right above the flue collar (9" up) that was the only place I could put it (double pipe after that). The experts will say that neither reading is accurate. We s/b using internal thermo. to get the true picture of what is going on inside the pipe.
I find if I shut the damper at around 400* (using my magnetic thermo 9" above the collar) then I will have a nice controlled burn regardless what the outside conditions are (cold/warm/windy/high press./low press......). But f I let it spike to say 600* then I will have a much harder time controlling the burn.
 
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