Hello all you knowledgeable Hearth.com folks!
Searched here quite extensively, but couldn't find my answer, so I registered and here it goes.
I bought a lightly used Resolute Acclaim over the summer. Paid a little more since it was near new condition (or so I thought). It is the flat black cast iron model, not enamel coated.
Put it in last night and fired her up. Ran BEAUTIFULLY. Warmed up our entire 1800sq/ft home very nicely using scrap wood from outside that wouldn't stack well. Great draft, no overfiring (held at a consistent 500-550 griddle temp).
About three hours in, I hear a "PING!". Go to investigate to find that the door hinge on the top is now free. The pin didn't snap, the round piece of cast iron protruding from the side of the inside of the front panel where the hole for the pin sits broke off completely. Luckily, the door still held a seal and I was able to finish the burn overnight without an issue.
It looks like the previous owner broke it, had it brazed poorly using a yellow metal (either brass or bronze perhaps?), then hit it with a coat of stove black. I checked the function of the big heavy door when I bought it and it seemed solid and had no evidence visible of the repair. I researched here for a while and found mention that a too tight latch may result in this situation on the VC Resolute Acclaims.
So now I am with a single use broken stove that needs to be welded. I hear cast iron welding is difficult, but unless I can get a cheap replacement front panel, I see no other option. No matter what I'll have to pull the top plate off. I printed the instructions from VC and have a general idea of how to get it off. My neighbor has a stick, MIG and TIG welder. Odds are a nickel alloy with the TIG welder would be the best way to do it. I'd love to do it in place also as I just hauled it up the stairs from the basement. A 110v welder should do the trick since it's not very thick and being cast iron it can't be welded using high amperage anyways.
Are there any steps I can/should skip since this is not a rebuild, but just a means to gain access to the top of the piece to be welded? The gaskets are all VERY decent condition and I can't imagine the stove was used more than 10x.
I was hoping to pull the flu-exit off the stove, take out the 4 bolts on the underside of the top plate and hopefully it will be able to be removed. Will this work?
Thanks for the help!
Searched here quite extensively, but couldn't find my answer, so I registered and here it goes.
I bought a lightly used Resolute Acclaim over the summer. Paid a little more since it was near new condition (or so I thought). It is the flat black cast iron model, not enamel coated.
Put it in last night and fired her up. Ran BEAUTIFULLY. Warmed up our entire 1800sq/ft home very nicely using scrap wood from outside that wouldn't stack well. Great draft, no overfiring (held at a consistent 500-550 griddle temp).
About three hours in, I hear a "PING!". Go to investigate to find that the door hinge on the top is now free. The pin didn't snap, the round piece of cast iron protruding from the side of the inside of the front panel where the hole for the pin sits broke off completely. Luckily, the door still held a seal and I was able to finish the burn overnight without an issue.
It looks like the previous owner broke it, had it brazed poorly using a yellow metal (either brass or bronze perhaps?), then hit it with a coat of stove black. I checked the function of the big heavy door when I bought it and it seemed solid and had no evidence visible of the repair. I researched here for a while and found mention that a too tight latch may result in this situation on the VC Resolute Acclaims.
So now I am with a single use broken stove that needs to be welded. I hear cast iron welding is difficult, but unless I can get a cheap replacement front panel, I see no other option. No matter what I'll have to pull the top plate off. I printed the instructions from VC and have a general idea of how to get it off. My neighbor has a stick, MIG and TIG welder. Odds are a nickel alloy with the TIG welder would be the best way to do it. I'd love to do it in place also as I just hauled it up the stairs from the basement. A 110v welder should do the trick since it's not very thick and being cast iron it can't be welded using high amperage anyways.
Are there any steps I can/should skip since this is not a rebuild, but just a means to gain access to the top of the piece to be welded? The gaskets are all VERY decent condition and I can't imagine the stove was used more than 10x.
I was hoping to pull the flu-exit off the stove, take out the 4 bolts on the underside of the top plate and hopefully it will be able to be removed. Will this work?
Thanks for the help!
