Vogelzang 5770 not staying on

[salvatore1]

Hello everyone, I'm having another issue with my vogelzang... I've recently changed the auger shaft and after that the stove would run until the first burn was done, and after that it would shut off and give me a message code of E3, so after troubleshooting, I changed the thermal disc proof of fire) the rep at USSC said to do that as well. So I fired it up and now it's stays on for a half hour, more or less, then shuts off again with the same error code of E3.
I've just changed the auger shaft, and during the winter I had replaced both blowers, the room blower and the combustion blower and now this. I'm not really sure what to do next at this point. I definitely could use some advice from you guys. Thank you

 

[tlc1976]

Is the stove and pipe clean? All the chambers like the exhaust blower, bolted side traps? Air intake? Blowers turn freely and sound normal?

How about the auger motor? Maybe it’s worn out if the auger needed replaced. FWIW I’ve never had to touch my auger in over 5 years and it snaps a lot of long pellets too. Just replaced a couple shear pins I think 4 years ago.

E3 is simply fire out. Or at least the stove thinks it is based on the pof switch. So what happens when you get the error?

Is the pot burned up? That would indicate it’s not feeding properly. Or pellets are burning up too fast. Does it still do it on higher heat ranges? Could be the door switch, that stops the auger when it thinks it is open.

Or is the pot filled up with junk? That would indicate lack of air. Do you have the outside air kit?

After it acts up, maybe run the board test and see what you get. Scroll down the page in the link.

Vogelzang VG-5790

I'd have to know what the auger voltage was and hook up an external supply to push it. Neither of which do I have, though I could probably borrow a supply from work. @IHATEPROPANE: What would you recommend for sealing the gap?

www.hearth.com

 

[salvatore1]

hi, yes the stove pipe is clean, chambers are clean, did a full and thorough cleaning. the blowers turn freely and sound new. the auger shaft needed to be replaced because the bottom of it where the cotter pin goes, had snapped off. as far as the auger motor being bad, i dont think so because because its still feeding pellets up until there's no fire in the burn pot. thats when it shuts off with the error code of E3.
This all started after i replaced the auger shaft, which was a real groan... and was nothing like the video showed. I mean I really had to go through hell to do it... ive had the board tested and there is nothing wrong with it. I have an outside air kit and the door seems fine. The picture below is the compartment where the auger shaft is located, so when I was installing the auger shaft the old shaft would not come out like the video explained, so I figured I could just unscrew the two screws of the compartment, and remove the silicone to make it easier, but it wasn't. The compartment doesn't open. Ive never resealed it with the silicone, could that be the problem ? Because the picture I'm showing you was before I replaced the auger shaft. Thanks

 

[tlc1976]

Why did the auger shaft snap? Did you remedy that first? Can you tell if the auger turns freely when it stops feeding pellets? I wonder if the heat causes something to bind. Or something to heat up in the motor and stop, I’ve seen that kind of thing before. Also see if the wire connections at the auger motor are loose since you had it apart, remove them and tighten them with pliers. They could heat up and break connection. You could also bypass the hopper door switch just to rule that out.

If there was a vacuum leak from it not being sealed, it would be a different error and shouldn’t take a half hour to show up anyway. Well I suppose there’s the possibility it could heat up, open the uncaulked joints, and dilute the hot exhaust air with cooler room air. Whether it’s enough to fool the thermodisc I don’t know. But you could bypass the thermodisc and see if it still runs out of pellets. That would narrow it down for you. Just don’t do it unattended, the stove won’t shut off on its own.

 

[Ssyko]

Hey Sal. does it feed pellets normally? if there was something that jammed the auger shaft, the gears in the auger gear box may have been stripped or damaged and would feed for a bit then quit.

 

[salvatore1]

Hey Sal. does it feed pellets normally? if there was something that jammed the auger shaft, the gears in the auger gear box may have been stripped or damaged and would feed for a bit then quit.

Sorry I didn't know you responded, messages aren't coming to my email even though the option is ticked off, I will definitely fill you in about the auger shaft when I get home from work, thank you so much !

 

[salvatore1]

Why did the auger shaft snap? Did you remedy that first? Can you tell if the auger turns freely when it stops feeding pellets? I wonder if the heat causes something to bind. Or something to heat up in the motor and stop, I’ve seen that kind of thing before. Also see if the wire connections at the auger motor are loose since you had it apart, remove them and tighten them with pliers. They could heat up and break connection. You could also bypass the hopper door switch just to rule that out.

If there was a vacuum leak from it not being sealed, it would be a different error and shouldn’t take a half hour to show up anyway. Well I suppose there’s the possibility it could heat up, open the uncaulked joints, and dilute the hot exhaust air with cooler room air. Whether it’s enough to fool the thermodisc I don’t know. But you could bypass the thermodisc and see if it still runs out of pellets. That would narrow it down for you. Just don’t do it unattended, the stove won’t shut off on its own.

Sorry TLC, I didn't know you responded messages aren't coming to my email I will fill you in after I get home from work thank you so much !

 

[salvatore1]

Hey Sal. does it feed pellets normally? if there was something that jammed the auger shaft, the gears in the auger gear box may have been stripped or damaged and would feed for a bit then quit.

hi Jim how are you man ?, it feeds pellets up until the fire goes out from the first initial burn, i wonder from what your saying if the auger shaft snapped because of the auger motor to begin with, and if something got jammed. how would i know if the auger motor is bad even though its feeding pellets

 

[salvatore1]

Why did the auger shaft snap? Did you remedy that first? Can you tell if the auger turns freely when it stops feeding pellets? I wonder if the heat causes something to bind. Or something to heat up in the motor and stop, I’ve seen that kind of thing before. Also see if the wire connections at the auger motor are loose since you had it apart, remove them and tighten them with pliers. They could heat up and break connection. You could also bypass the hopper door switch just to rule that out.

If there was a vacuum leak from it not being sealed, it would be a different error and shouldn’t take a half hour to show up anyway. Well I suppose there’s the possibility it could heat up, open the uncaulked joints, and dilute the hot exhaust air with cooler room air. Whether it’s enough to fool the thermodisc I don’t know. But you could bypass the thermodisc and see if it still runs out of pellets. That would narrow it down for you. Just don’t do it unattended, the stove won’t shut off on its own.

I'm not one hundred percent sure of why the auger shaft snapped but i did run the unit with the back panel off for a few weeks after i replaced one of the blowers because the new blower did not fit exactly the same as the original, so i left it off until i got around to cutting the metal off the panel, not sure if thats the reason though...
I will bypass the thermal disc like you recommended but i forgot how to do it. and will check the connections on the auger motor too. thank you

 

[salvatore1]

Hey Sal. does it feed pellets normally? if there was something that jammed the auger shaft, the gears in the auger gear box may have been stripped or damaged and would feed for a bit then quit.

Hi Jim, just to give you an update on what's going on with the stove.. I've checked the connections to the auger motor and changed the thermal disc, but it's still shutting down after the first initial burn is done, and is not feeding pellets like it should, also everything is blackened up more than it should be. With all of the things that I have mentioned and everything else ruled out, do you think it's safe to say that it's the auger motor ? Thanks

 

[Ssyko]

Its possible. Take it out and plug into an outlet try to hold the main shaft see if it stops

 

[tlc1976]

Have you tried bypassing the thermodisc? Unplug it and connect both wire ends together. Don’t let it short against anything. That would rule out if it’s tripping due to cooler air leaking in from the uncaulked seams. Like I said don’t leave the stove unattended while doing this.

 

[salvatore1]

Its possible. Take it out and plug into an outlet try to hold the main shaft see if it stops

That one I don't know about, with my luck I'll fry myself and get thrown into next year,lol but I have to bypass the thermal disc, I'll try that first

 

[salvatore1]

Have you tried bypassing the thermodisc? Unplug it and connect both wire ends together. Don’t let it short against anything. That would rule out if it’s tripping due to cooler air leaking in from the uncaulked seams. Like I said don’t leave the stove unattended while doing this.

Thanks for that I'll try bypassing it and stay with it, btw do I need to put a piece of wire in-between the connectors ?

 

[tlc1976]

Yes just make sure the wire doesn’t touch anything else or you’ll fry the board. Hopefully it will start up without reporting an error.

Reason you don’t want to leave the stove unattended this way, is if the fire really does go out, it will keep feeding pellets until the hopper is empty. And if it keeps feeding pellets you’ll know it’s not the auger motor.

If this makes your stove run better, then I think you either have another bad thermodisc, or you need to caulk the seams where you disassembled it because it’s pulling in cool air and fooling it into thinking the fire is out.