Auger replacement success - Harman PC45

[jp99]

On my "to do" list for the last few years was an auger replacement for my PC-45. The stove is about 18 years old now. I bought the new assembly of auger and bearing earlier this year, and waited for a good time this summer to work on it.

Overall it went well. From the pictures you can see the old one was heavily worn at the leading edge. I think burning a lot of corn in the early years wore it faster, but I'm not sure. The old bearing was still decent, but had some front-to-back play and grease was oozing out, so it was a good time to replace it.

The main problem was getting the direct drive feed motor off the auger shaft. It certainly didn't wiggle off like the YouTube video showed. Penetrating oil and some vise-grips were needed to break it free.

Overall a good project to do over a couple of days. At 68 getting up and down from the floor isn't much fun anymore, and with a full clean and feed system check after I was done, it was a six hour job from getting the tools to when everything was put away and I was done. Stove is cleaned, spruced up, and ready for the burning season!

I've replaced a number of parts on the stove, but surprisingly the combustion blower is still chugging along just fine. I have the replacement ready to install but no sign of needing it. Probably waiting until next winter's minus (something bad) degree day.

 

[Whitenuckler]

On my "to do" list for the last few years was an auger replacement for my PC-45. The stove is about 18 years old now. I bought the new assembly of auger and bearing earlier this year, and waited for a good time this summer to work on it.

Overall it went well. From the pictures you can see the old one was heavily worn at the leading edge. I think burning a lot of corn in the early years wore it faster, but I'm not sure. The old bearing was still decent, but had some front-to-back play and grease was oozing out, so it was a good time to replace it.

The main problem was getting the direct drive feed motor off the auger shaft. It certainly didn't wiggle off like the YouTube video showed. Penetrating oil and some vise-grips were needed to break it free.

Overall a good project to do over a couple of days. At 68 getting up and down from the floor isn't much fun anymore, and with a full clean and feed system check after I was done, it was a six hour job from getting the tools to when everything was put away and I was done. Stove is cleaned, spruced up, and ready for the burning season!

I've replaced a number of parts on the stove, but surprisingly the combustion blower is still chugging along just fine. I have the replacement ready to install but no sign of needing it. Probably waiting until next winter's minus (something bad) degree day.


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I'm glad to see the quality of those parts. I wanted to swap out my combustion blower wheel last year, but could not get the set screw out. Will try this year with a better tool. I too bought spare parts just in case, but no failures so far.

 

[jp99]

I'm glad to see the quality of those parts. I wanted to swap out my combustion blower wheel last year, but could not get the set screw out. Will try this year with a better tool. I too bought spare parts just in case, but no failures so far.

It is unlikely you could remove the fan wheel. The set screw and fan often bond together and to the motor shaft. The business where I purchased my Harman told me after 10 years the only way to take it apart is by cutting it out. It would be difficult to cut just the fan wheel off due to limited area for a cutting tool.

I tried flooding the set screw and shaft/fan with penetrating oil but nothing budged, even after 3 days.

The store owner told me the best way is to loosen the combustion fan, pull it backwards, and use a sawzall to cut the exposed motor shaft. The fan and cut shaft can be removed from the inside, and the motor can be unbolted the rest of the way on the backside.

 

[Whitenuckler]

It is unlikely you could remove the fan wheel. The set screw and fan often bond together and to the motor shaft. The business where I purchased my Harman told me after 10 years the only way to take it apart is by cutting it out. It would be difficult to cut just the fan wheel off due to limited area for a cutting tool.

I tried flooding the set screw and shaft/fan with penetrating oil but nothing budged, even after 3 days.

The store owner told me the best way is to loosen the combustion fan, pull it backwards, and use a sawzall to cut the exposed motor shaft. The fan and cut shaft can be removed from the inside, and the motor can be unbolted the rest of the way on the backside.

Last season I put some WD40 on it. I only tried the "key" type allan wrench. Now I have the 1/4: ratchet type. I will try in October. I have a spare fan so I'd like to put it on and clean behind ect. If I ever get it off I will use antiseeze and remove each year.

 

[Washed-Up]

I’ve never had to cut one off…PB Baster overnight and at least 8 have come off

 

[Whitenuckler]

I’ve never had to cut one off…PB Baster overnight and at least 8 have come off

Ok good to know. I will try again. Last year I just tried a key type, this year I have the proper tool. Once I get the factory one off I'll be OK.