wall clearances again-sorry!!!

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sparkey

New Member
Aug 29, 2008
6
Puget sound, WA.
thank you in advance for your replys.
rebuilding a hearth and flameable woodstove wall behind,
the wall part is issue, all musurements just meet min.
quadrafire 3100act.
have read all about the 1 inch airspace and durock and spacers.
my question is becuse of my close to min. specs., is the durock wall and spacers considered a flamable wall",
bucuse by the time i build the durock wall, add spacers, airspace and 3/8 inch thick marble tile i will be under
allowable spec by allmost 2 inches.
is mesurement taken to the real wall that has the wood studs in it whch is really the flameable wall ignoring the firesafe wall i would like to add??.

is what i want to do acceptable???
 
What's the current measurement to the wall from the back corner of the stove? I don't have the ACT manual, but this is from the ACC manual. The distance you are looking at is E in the chart, to the heat shield. But check the ACT manual to confirm the mfg recommended minimum distance.
 

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The manufacturer's chart is the guideline. There isn't any leaway there except to exceed specs. You can put a double-45 offset on the stove flue to bring it out from the wall. That's what I had to do when I went to the top exhaust T6.
 

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when i removed the stove, i found quite a bit of "wiggle" room when i slid the stove foreward on the pad, with the double wall pipe still connected.
can the pipe be out of plum and still be acceptable, this would give me the 2-3 inches i need to be within min spec. but the pipe would be a few degrees off plum, probabally enough to see and notice if you were looking for it.
 
Normally you want the stove flue plumb, especially if this is double-wall pipe going to a ceiling support box. What is the distance you currently have? What is the manual recommended minimum?

It would help to see the problems. Can you post a picture of the setup and the issues of concern?
 
sparkey said:
...is the durock wall and spacers considered a flamable wall...

No. Your durock/tile sandwich and its attendant airspace are non-combustible.

sparkey said:
...is mesurement taken to the real wall that has the wood studs in it whch is really the flameable wall ignoring the firesafe wall i would like to add?

In a way, yes it is. The addition of the non-combustible heat shield between the stove and the combustible wall allows you to reduce the required minimum clearance. How much of a reduction you're allowed depends on the materials used in the construction of the heat shield. A shield of appropriate construction will allow you to reduce the required clearance by as much as 66%. This means that if your stove requires, say 36" from the rear wall without the shield, then putting the shield in place would allow you to go down to 34% of 36", or just 12"...measured the same way as before...from the stove to the combustible wall, as if the heat shield wasn't there. That make any sense? Rick
 
spec sheet on back of stove says 8.5'' with double pipe from stove to back to wall.
I belive the stove previously sat at about 6.5.
I have removed the 8'' tall pedistal hearth the stove originally sat on, it was inproperly constructed and the morter was toast( cracking).
had a covering of 1'' brick over a plywood box. hearth heat is minimal with my stove model as it is a pedistal type, hearth surface is not an issue, it currently is torn down to a 3 to 6 inch slab of concrete and will be covered with a sheet of durock and tumbled marble tile.
the brick i removed from the back wall was hung on sheetrock, it was also cracked and the cheetrock crumbley, bebind that owens corning 3.5 fiberglass insluation, also showing signs of too much heat, a toasted kind of look to the foil.
I think i will cover that part of the wall with durock and do the 1 '' air space shield in front of that, the saving grace will be the double 45 BeGreen suggested.

now is a double 45 available in class a double wall 6'' pipe???
is there a short piece of pipe between the 45's to adjust the offset???, only a few inches will give me enough to give over min specs. and paece of mind.
I will post pictures tommorow, thakns, john
 
ok , i see the short piece of pipe in BeGreen's picture to adjust the offset.
but the picture dosn't look like double wall pipe!!! is it single wall or double???
 
Good plan. I think there is some confusion about the connecting pipe from the stove to the class A at the ceiling support box. The connector is not class A, it's double-wall flue pipe. The difference is the temperature rating of the pipe.

The picture I posted is Simpson DVL double wall pipe and it does come in 45 deg, 6" elbows. Note that I have a short 6" connector pipe in between to achieve my clearances. You may not need this. If you use a 45 deg., elbow to elbow combo, it will give you a 5 3/4" offset. That seems like it may be enough to achieve the clearances you need.
 
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