Weather station battery issue

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

We just bought a new weather station to keep track. Our old one died after about 5 years.

The new one is way cooler than the old one. Temp and humidity inside and out, barometric pressure, moon phase, forecast, date and time. All on a high res color display. The outside sensor even has a temp and humidity display.

Here's the problem. The outside sensor runs through the two aaa batteries in 3 days. I suspect that there's something faulty and instead of periodic signals from the remote to the base, it's sending constant signal.

Any ideas on this one?

 

[AbrK]

I have pretty much the exact same unit and I had the same problem when I first bought it now I only use good Duracell batteries in it and it will last about 6 months or so cheap battery’s seemed to last days maybe 5 at most


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[Easy Livin’ 3000]

I have pretty much the exact same unit and I had the same problem when I first bought it now I only use good Duracell batteries in it and it will last about 6 months or so cheap battery’s seemed to last days maybe 5 at most


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Thanks! That was the next thing we were going to try, nice to know it won't be wasted. We have lots of cheap batteries around, and no good ones. Gives you a sense of the difference between the good ones and cheap ones. I'm gonna start using the good ones in my headlamp as well, as that gets dim pretty fast. The cheap ones will be relegated to the remotes.

 

[AbrK]

The difference in good and cheap batterys is night and day so is the price though lol but you pay for quality I suppose


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[VirginiaIron]

I agree with the battery hypothesis. See if the operating instructions recommend a particuler type and start there.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

I agree with the battery hypothesis. See if the operating instructions recommend a particuler type and start there.

I am always a fan of reading the instructions, when all else fails...

That said, the unit did come with batteries, and they are the same brand of cheapies that we have. I think they lasted 5 days. Despite that, upon your advice, Iron, I went back to the book. Lots of advice in the instructions:

- No rechargables, voltage is low;
- Preferably use alkaline batteries which last longer, particularly with low outdoor temps;
- Always use batteries of premium quality, batteries of poor quality may leak and cause damage (recall the unit came with decidedly non-premium batteries).

There are fully three pages devoted to batteries. Mostly safe handling instructions- leaks, explosions, danger to skin, eyes, mucus membrane, children. Who knew AAA batteries were such a hazard? (Thank you, lawyers!)

Finally, from the technical data page:
3 V DC, Type LR3/R3/AAA.

I have no idea what the LR or R means. I'll try not to worry about that.

Yes, it's wet outside. I really should be fabricating the block-off plate, or insulating the attic, or installing the weather stripping and new sweeps to the doors, or,...

 

[Hasufel]

Finally, from the technical data page:
3 V DC, Type LR3/R3/AAA.

I have no idea what the LR or R means. I'll try not to worry about that.

Generally LR signifies alkaline chemistry, R signifies zinc-carbon (older tech). Still AAAs.

FWIW, we got some battery-powered candles that came with AAA batteries. I think they lasted about 2 days. I could tell right off the bat that they felt lighter than normal batteries. I slapped them on the scale and found they weighed only about half of what a "real" AAA should. So the manufacturer was just cheaping out on the batteries to save a few cents. Performance was a lot better once we replaced them!

 

[highanddryinco]

Go with Lithium AAA's for outside batteries where it gets cold.
I have a touchpad lock on my front screen/storm door. If I use regular alkaline batteries, they last about two weeks when the temps really drop. The lithiums will go an entire winter.

 

[peakbagger]

Go with Lithium AAA's for outside batteries where it gets cold.
I have a touchpad lock on my front screen/storm door. If I use regular alkaline batteries, they last about two weeks when the temps really drop. The lithiums will go an entire winter.

The prior poster hit the nail on the head. Switch to Lithium batteries and the problem should go away. If it doesnt I expect you have defective equipment. Return it or replace it.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Update #1- Duracell copper tops didn't last any longer than the cheap ones.

So, we moved the remote so it is hanging from it's hook, in direct line of site, about 12 feet from the main unit, and put a new set of Duracells in. We had it lying down on a table before.

If Duracells only last 3 days, I'm gonna assume the unit is faulty and return it. Even if lithiums last 10 times as long, I won't be replacing batteries once a month.

Hasn't been cold enough to impact life that severely yet.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Update #2: I think we found the solution to our problem. After doing some more Google research, found a review that recommend switching the remote sensor to °c from ° f. The remote sensor has a small digital display that shows outdoor temps and humidity. It does not control the main display, which we left on °f.

We are going on one week without running the batteries down, so I think we solved our problem.

Who knew that converting from celcius to farenheit was so energy intensive? Well, in any event, glad to have found the fix.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Update #2: I think we found the solution to our problem. After doing some more Google research, found a review that recommend switching the remote sensor to °c from ° f. The remote sensor has a small digital display that shows outdoor temps and humidity. It does not control the main display, which we left on °f.

We are going on one week without running the batteries down, so I think we solved our problem.

Who knew that converting from celcius to farenheit was so energy intensive? Well, in any event, glad to have found the fix.

I believe it! The conversion from F to C uses more data and thus causes greater battery drain. For example:
C to F= 1.8x C + 32 (low energy conversion). But the F to C formula is very fuelish!
F to C = - 32x .5555555555555555 (you get the point)6, lol

 

[Sodbuster]

Update #2: I think we found the solution to our problem. After doing some more Google research, found a review that recommend switching the remote sensor to °c from ° f. The remote sensor has a small digital display that shows outdoor temps and humidity. It does not control the main display, which we left on °f.

We are going on one week without running the batteries down, so I think we solved our problem.

Who knew that converting from celcius to farenheit was so energy intensive? Well, in any event, glad to have found the fix.

You nailed it! C = Canadian, and they are used to paying more for everything. Put it back on the F for frugal, and you're all set.

 

[VirginiaIron]

C=
Costs more
Causes more frustration

 

[St. Coemgen]

Who knew that converting from celcius to farenheit was so energy intensive?

Well, I did. I work in IT. But I just saw this post. Any number crunching is going to take more power than not and will always drain a power source more rapidly.

But, while I am here.... I personally prefer analog. Let the dog out in the morning. If he comes in fast, it is cold. If he stays out, it is warm. If he comes in white, is is snowing. If he comes in wet, it is raining.

For generic predictions and current conditions, still find the analog barometer in the house and the thermometer outside the window sufficient

For fine grained details and predictions, accuweather.com or its app is where I go.

 

[St. Coemgen]

I believe it! The conversion from F to C uses more data and thus causes greater battery drain. For example:
C to F= 1.8x C + 32 (low energy conversion). But the F to C formula is very fuelish!
F to C = - 32x .5555555555555555 (you get the point)6, lol

Actually, the formulae are:

C to F = °C * 9/5 + 32
F to C = (°F - 32) * 5/9

So the chip (or software) should optimize to do integer math when and if it can, and will often follow the order of operators (i.e. multiply by 5 before dividing by 9, so a floating point approximation of 5/9 as 0.5555555555....6 need not be used at all).

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Well, I did. I work in IT. But I just saw this post. Any number crunching is going to take more power than not and will always drain a power source more rapidly.

But, while I am here.... I personally prefer analog. Let the dog out in the morning. If he comes in fast, it is cold. If he stays out, it is warm. If he comes in white, is is snowing. If he comes in wet, it is raining.

For generic predictions and current conditions, still find the analog barometer in the house and the thermometer outside the window sufficient

For fine grained details and predictions, accuweather.com or its app is where I go.

I thought I was just kidding with that comment, but it seems that it actually was the problem.

I feel the same about preferring analog, generally. But I suppose our days are numbered.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

We use rechargeable batteries in everything we can. That way, a shorter battery life isn't such a problem as you can just rotate them through a charger.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

We use rechargeable batteries in everything we can. That way, a shorter battery life isn't such a problem as you can just rotate them through a charger.

Sounds like a good idea to me, although the instructions specifically say not to use rechargables, for some reason.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

Sounds like a good idea to me, although the instructions specifically say not to use rechargables, for some reason.

Interesting....I wonder why. I'm sure someone here can chime in with the theory behind that.

 

[Hasufel]

Interesting....I wonder why. I'm sure someone here can chime in with the theory behind that.

There are several possibilities, but only the manufacturer can say for sure why they warn consumers not to use rechargeables:

1) Not enough voltage. NiMH batteries deliver ~1.2V vs 1.5 for disposables. The difference can be pretty significant if the device uses several batteries in series.
2) Conversely, rechargeable batteries are capable of delivering higher current (amperage) that could damage sensitive electronics.
3) Disposable batteries are better for low-drain applications because they maintain their voltage better over time. Rechargeables tend to lose their charge over a matter of months, even if they're just sitting unused...although some rechargeables that are marketed as "low self-discharge" are better at maintaining a charge over time.
4) Disposable batteries can be damaged if they are discharged too far or if they are subjected to environmental extremes.
5) There are some concerns that rechargeable batteries are more likely to overheat or catch fire. I think this is more likely to be an issue with lithium cells than with NiMH, but in our litigious society the manufacturer might just be applying an "overabundance of caution."

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

There are several possibilities, but only the manufacturer can say for sure why they warn consumers not to use rechargeables:

1) Not enough voltage. NiMH batteries deliver ~1.2V vs 1.5 for disposables. The difference can be pretty significant if the device uses several batteries in series.
2) Conversely, rechargeable batteries are capable of delivering higher current (amperage) that could damage sensitive electronics.
3) Disposable batteries are better for low-drain applications because they maintain their voltage better over time. Rechargeables tend to lose their charge over a matter of months, even if they're just sitting unused...although some rechargeables that are marketed as "low self-discharge" are better at maintaining a charge over time.
4) Disposable batteries can be damaged if they are discharged too far or if they are subjected to environmental extremes.
5) There are some concerns that rechargeable batteries are more likely to overheat or catch fire. I think this is more likely to be an issue with lithium cells than with NiMH, but in our litigious society the manufacturer might just be applying an "overabundance of caution."

Thanks! I knew someone here could give some insight into that.

 

[zrock]

About the best disposable battery is the energizer ultimate. I used to run a GPS tracking on my ATV. With just standard energizer i would get max 3 months out of a set of batteries, Duracell i would be lucky to get 2 months, with the ultimate i would get 6 months before low battery indicator poped on and another 2 months before they were totally dead to the point it would not transmit. They are way more expensive but by the time you figure out the cost of the others it works out cheaper