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oddodaoddo

New Member
Jan 3, 2018
38
Virginia
Hello, total newbie here.

We got our Englander NC-30 installed on our main floor, stainless steel liner and all.

I got a fire going and it starts out big with lots of yellow flames etc. Is this what is supposed to be happening ALL the time? In other words, is the fire always supposed to be big and yellow? I noticed a bunch of red glowing coals at the bottom of the stove but the no more yellow flames...

Thanks!
 
This is normal. Fires start off showy, and depending on your wood, end in various amounts of coals.
 
How long did the flames last? Are you versed in the operation of the stove?
 
No. You won't see flames the whole time. Your stove will go through a cycle. For my 30nc, active flames are only present for 2-4 hours. After that, it's glowing coals. This part still puts off decent heat. If you need to accelerate the process, open the air a bit and or drag the coals to the front of the stove.

Also, be sure you're not over-firing the stove. If I have "big and yellow" flames in my fire box after the stove gets going, I would also have a stove with a glowing spot on the top. After 30-45 minutes of closing the air down in stages, you should have mostly secondary flames.
 
Hmm. OK - I must have moist wood or something else going on. The stove has been going on for an hour with air control fully open AND door slightly ajar. If I close the door, the flames die off and I can see the wood glowing but no flames :(
 
Hmm. OK - I must have moist wood or something else going on. The stove has been going on for an hour with air control fully open AND door slightly ajar. If I close the door, the flames die off and I can see the wood glowing but no flames :(
You have wet wood.Is this your first fire?
 
Your wood may be an issue. How long and under what conditions has it been stored? And to know for sure, many here (myself included) recommend buying a moisture meter so that you can know for sure, if your wood is dry enough.

I find that my 30nc (basement install, insulated exterior chimney) is difficult to get going from a cold start. Shut the door too quickly, and I get what you get; dead flames and wood that is just glowing.
 
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You will need a moisture meter so this does not happen again
Well, the manual says that if the handle for air control is fully pulled out (towards me), the air inlet is fully open. I understand after a while I am supposed to close it bit by bit....
Well, the manual says that if the handle for air control is fully pulled out (towards me), the air inlet is fully open. I understand after a while I am supposed to close it bit by bit....
Thats correct.
 
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Must have overlooked the part about the door being open for an hour. As others have said, the most likely problem is unseasoned wood.
 
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Your wood may be an issue. How long and under what conditions has it been stored? And to know for sure, many here (myself included) recommend buying a moisture meter so that you can know for sure, if your wood is dry enough.

I find that my 30nc (basement install, insulated exterior chimney) is difficult to get going from a cold start. Shut the door too quickly, and I get what you get; dead flames and wood that is just glowing.

Hello, I do have a moisture meter, the logs are oak and cherry (bought them from someone) and they show (probes on surface) moisture anywhere from 8 to 25%. I have not split one yet to test the middle.
 
Listen up Grasshopper...:) You must bring a split in overnight and bring it to room temperature and split and test on the face of the fresh split in order to get a correct reading...your actual reading are much higher than you actually tested
 
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The best way to figure out if this is the issue is to pick up a package of the kiln dried wood at the local supermarket or convenience store.
 
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Hello, I do have a moisture meter, the logs are oak and cherry (bought them from someone) and they show (probes on surface) moisture anywhere from 8 to 25%. I have not split one yet to test the middle.

You need to warm a piece to room temperature and then split it and test the middle.
 
Listen up Grasshopper...:) You must bring a split in overnight and bring it to room temperature and split and test on the face of the fresh split in order to get a correct reading...your actual reading are much higher than you actually tested

:) Yes Sir, planning on doing so tomorrow. I like the suggestion with buying kiln dried wood also to test the stove. Thank you all!
 
:) Yes Sir, planning on doing so tomorrow. I like the suggestion with buying kiln dried wood also to test the stove. Thank you all!
Be sure also to test the kiln dried. Some folks report it's not very dry inside, and surmise that it's just warmed enough to kill off any bugs that may be inside.

The compressed sawdust blocks work well, so long as you let them burn up and don't crumble them in your stove. Tractor supply is a good source for them.
 
Wood can be the biggest frustration. I ended up using free pallets to get me through my first season burning.
 
:) Yes Sir, planning on doing so tomorrow. I like the suggestion with buying kiln dried wood also to test the stove. Thank you all!
In this part of the country...Indiana...Kiln dried means absolutely nothing except that it does not have bugs in it! My buddy runs a firewood/logging business and the kilns only bring the temps up enough to kill bugs..it does nothing to bring the moisture content down! Scrounge up some scrap untreated 2x4s or go to your local TSC,Rural King or whatever farm store you have and get some of the compressed saw dust logs...I have seen them marketed as Greenheat,Bio Blocks,Enviro log....you do not want to get what they call starter logs...report back...
 
It does sound like you have a bit of wet wood, but one thing to note. A stovetop thermometer is your friend in running your new stove. Steel stoves stovetop readings of around 350-700 degrees should/will keep you comfy and burning clean. Congrats on your new stove. Wood is always the biggest variable in success/happiness with any stove. Good luck..
 
Thank you all. Eventually (after an hour or so), I closed the door to the stove and closed the air intake to 1/2. I started feeling that the stove was getting heated up as it was radiating heat much better everywhere and the ambient temperature started climbing. I will test my wood tomorrow and will also go out and get a stove thermometer.

One odd thing - the smoke alarm keeps coming on - it is about 8 feet away from the stove in the corridor next to the room the stove is in. I can see no smoke with the naked eye. The smell of that first burn paint though.....
 
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Thank you all. Eventually (after an hour or so), I closed the door to the stove and closed the air intake to 1/2. I started feeling that the stove was getting heated up as it was radiating heat much better everywhere and the ambient temperature started climbing. I will test my wood tomorrow and will also go out and get a stove thermometer.

One odd thing - the smoke alarm keeps coming on - it is about 8 feet away from the stove in the corridor next to the room the stove is in. I can see no smoke with the naked eye. The smell of that first burn paint though.....
You should not under any circumstances have to leave the door open for 1 hour! Is that a combo alarm?
 
Paint curing can set off smoke alarms, and it can happen a few times each time the stove reaches a new high temperature.

Just as a safety reminder, do you also have a carbon monoxide detector installed?

Finally, if you end up needing to turn to a compressed wood product and you’re anywhere near Richmond, check out Liberty Bricks. They’re cheaper and better than the ones from Tractor Supply in my experience.