What brand flu thermometer
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Heard they were good.It will be on my vertical pipe about 3 ft from stove.Do i just drill horizontally into my double wall or should i angle it slightly so as not to fall out.Don't want that glowing thing fallin on the floor.Also what temps should i look for?I have read other posted reviews but everybody has a diff setup etc.3/16 through double and1/4 through outside i hear.
I like the SBI probe, it's similar to the Condar but has black and silver zones. Drill it straight horizontal, they have a magnet to hold it there. Instructions should be on the package.
+1 instructions on the package, but yes, I think I went up 18" (whatever the package said) and yes 2 bit sizes. The inner and outer pipe will expand and contract at different rates.
I like the Temp Point. Can be calibrated and comes with it's own mounting clip, so it doesn't
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turn or sag. Easy to see at a quick glance.
turn or sag. Easy to see at a quick glance.
Happy with my Condar probe thermo . . . straight drill . . . you will need two different size bits. There is a magnet . . . I have yet to hear of anyone who has had one of these fall out of the flue. My normal range temp is 400-900 degrees F.
blwncrewchief
Burning Hunk
I got the SBI probe also because of the black and silver face. Very happy with it and I am pretty sure it is made by Condar.
......i'm cheap...i just use a magnetic meter on the pipe. its within 10-20 degees when checked with my IR handheld. So, thats close enough for me. when it starts creeping to the red, i close down the draft or the damper. thought about one of the probes, but haven't taken the plunge.
cass
cass
I sure appreciate the replies.It is odd about the magnetic part though cause i have read that the magnetic stove top therm will drop when hot but there would be more heft with the megnetic not protruding into the pipe.Sure is nice to have the help we do here.
i've been using a magnetic one for years...on the vertical stove pipe....never had one drop.....never poked a hole for a screw for it either. Wives tales i say....Wives tales 
.
cass
.cass
The magnetic ones on stoves and/or Single wall will drop, or lose magnetism.
But on double wall (why you need a probe). The pipe doesn't see the very high external temps. That and there is a probe stuck through the hole. So it takes very little magnetism to keep it there.
I have a Condar probe also. Actually 2 of them. One 18" up from stove top and another inside the horizontal section leading to the thimble. Both read within 50° from one another
But on double wall (why you need a probe). The pipe doesn't see the very high external temps. That and there is a probe stuck through the hole. So it takes very little magnetism to keep it there.
I have a Condar probe also. Actually 2 of them. One 18" up from stove top and another inside the horizontal section leading to the thimble. Both read within 50° from one another
Duane, we like the ones that Woodstock sends with the new stove. We've tried others but they all vary so much and are not even close to the real temperature (as measured with a IR gun). They aren't expensive and we've had ours (2) for over 5 years with no problems. They both still work.
Have two magnetic therms. One (condor) on vertical pipe at 15 inches above stove top, store guy screwed it on. One (rutland) in middle of stove top which is the one I seem to care about. When initial evening fire gets roaring to about 600 or 700 per stove top therm, the one on the pipe goes off the charts, probably because wood is a bit high in center. When things settle down and cruise, both therms in middle of range. Stove guy at cleaning said I was burning correctly based on what he saw. Good enough for me. I again expressed a concern about my possibly overfiring this steel stove with brick lining, and he (like other stove guy) said that would be really difficult to do. Like, don't worry about it, things looked fine.
Bub, we just bought another thermometer from Woodstock and have that on the flue. We have a horizontal flue straight out the wall then up. We tried other thermometers but none could match the Condars.
Bub, knowing the flue temperature really helps a lot. For example, sometimes the stove top will be up to temperature but looking at the flue we see maybe 250 so we know to not engage the cat just yet. A few more minutes and the flue temperature rises and all is well. For sure when we get at least 400 on our thermometer the cat will light off right away. Lower and things don't always work out right. Not sure if there is a good way to tell on the double wall without a probe but that would be a good question to ask of Woodstock.
I find that I rely more on my probe thermo in the double wall more than I do the stove thermo . . . I wouldn't run my stove without it.
Thanks guys,can engaging the cat too early hurt it or it just wont burn clean? Also i noticed ya have to be quick to turn the stove down when reloading on a bed of hot coals.I have warmed the flue up pretty fast and heard it snapping and burned some of that new smell off of the pipe because i haven't had a fire yet over 400 and i just cleaned my chimney.It's just the sound of the pipe expanding.What temp is too hot for a flu temp? I also heard that the difference between stovetop and flue is around 200
.Don't quote me on that last part.
.Don't quote me on that last part.
Engaging too early once in awhile shouldn't hurt the cat but it may stall on you or if you do it often it could become coated with creosote and plug up.
Flue probe is a good tool for a Woodstock stove. I have found while in the bypass flue temps can really get away from you if your not watching closely.
Flue probe is a good tool for a Woodstock stove. I have found while in the bypass flue temps can really get away from you if your not watching closely.
Well the plus too all this,,,having a stove that drafts well. The opposite would be a real headache with smoke spillage. I noticed my first year with the Fireview,,,, it can be almost out of coals, move them to the front and the new load still takes right off. I'm all for that and watching that the flue temps don't run away,,,, to me it's like having a turbo start system
,,,,, I'll take that! Most of the time once I see some good flames I can just leave the draft at one and once I'm reading 250 stove top,, I just close the bypass. I think that's a little easier on the stone then to have a quick blazing reload. Most of the time I'm just under or near 250 on a reload so it doesn't take long to get some new wood charred. Just being respectable of what the stone goes through.
Thanks guys,can engaging the cat too early hurt it or it just wont burn clean? Also i noticed ya have to be quick to turn the stove down when reloading on a bed of hot coals.I have warmed the flue up pretty fast and heard it snapping and burned some of that new smell off of the pipe because i haven't had a fire yet over 400 and i just cleaned my chimney.It's just the sound of the pipe expanding.What temp is too hot for a flu temp? I also heard that the difference between stovetop and flue is around 200
Engaging the cat too early will hurt if the wood is not dry enough. But if the flue temperature is up to 500 internal then it should be okay to engage then as that is the temperature needed to get the cat to light off. As for the difference in temperature between stove and flue, that can vary a lot. Get that stove top to 650 and there will be more than a 200 degree difference. Same thing with a 250 stove top. There will be less then. I really don't worry about temperature differences and to tell the truth, once the stove is going I rarely look at the flue temperature and only if I get cool or hot do I look at the stove top temperature. If I happen to be walking past the stove though I might look just out of curiosity but most times I could care less so long as the house is at a comfortable temperature.
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