We burn about 6 cords a year in this stove. We love it. Vents below with fans blow air out the top. It came with the house we bought 8.5 years ago. Trying to identify it to find the manual. Thanks in advance.
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What Fisher stove is this?
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We burn about 6 cords a year in this stove. We love it. Vents below with fans blow air out the top. It came with the house we bought 8.5 years ago. Trying to identify it to find the manual. Thanks in advance.
Can't be sure until you count bricks on the sides. It SHOULD be a Fisher Fireplace Insert, but the legs could be cut off a Grandma with step top installed into the fireplace. You can tell looking inside at the "roof" if it is flat from front to rear. The Insert has no step top. The Insert should have a chain or lever controlled damper on the right. Can't tell in your pictures.
If it's an Insert, it's not a stove.
I don't see the required deflector above the air slot at top that directs heat away from mantle.
The Insert will have a slot on the bottom under ash fender for blower to push air in below the firebox, up the back, around the outlet at top and out the top slot. This is convection heat from the firebox directly vented into the room instead of radiant heat radiating into hearth to be extracted by your blower which is much less efficient.
https://www.hearth.com/images/uploads/fishinsertmanual.pdf
You can still get the spring coil handles you're missing from Woodman's Parts Plus nickel (silver) or brass plated.
Below is a typical full size Insert with blower; This one was black and has hand painted doors that were not original.
If it's an Insert, it's not a stove.
I don't see the required deflector above the air slot at top that directs heat away from mantle.
The Insert will have a slot on the bottom under ash fender for blower to push air in below the firebox, up the back, around the outlet at top and out the top slot. This is convection heat from the firebox directly vented into the room instead of radiant heat radiating into hearth to be extracted by your blower which is much less efficient.
https://www.hearth.com/images/uploads/fishinsertmanual.pdf
You can still get the spring coil handles you're missing from Woodman's Parts Plus nickel (silver) or brass plated.
Below is a typical full size Insert with blower; This one was black and has hand painted doors that were not original.
Thanks of the reply! Couple of notes I may have mislead you on the blower. The fans are in the lower part of the redstone on left and right and the blower blows out the top louvers of the redstone above the stove. They blower is not part of the stove. It is an insert it has a flat top. There are wood handles on the flue and the door handles not the spring coils, they are in good shape. Maybe walnut. There are 6 bricks lining each side. Looks like 5 on the back. Hard to tell while it's full and cranking. Thanks for your fast reply. You mention not a stove. Isn't this a stove insert? Thanks!
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No, a freestanding heating appliance is a stove or Fireplace Stove when you can view the fire. This is a Fireplace Insert.
Yes, a fireplace radiates heat directly forward from the flames and also the heat was absorbed into the mass, then into the room moving the air by convection, attempting to keep it in the building. The problem was the heat also rises in the mass through the roof, so the theory was extracting as much as possible. The Insert is built to remove the heat from between the firebox and outer air jacket without the loss into the masonry. This air space is under the firebox where cool air from the floor is drawn into the slot and forced toward the back, up the back and around the hottest part which is the vent outlet. By extracting the heat before it can heat the masonry mass, you are heating the air in the room with less loss through the masonry. If your fireplace is inside the building, like up the middle of the structure, it is much better than the back wall being outside where more heat absorbed would be wasted.
You need to make sure your outlet is connected to a flue the same size as outlet all the way to the top. This would be a chimney liner and is normally insulated to keep the inside of flue hot with the least amount of heat loss possible. It is no longer legal to install the appliance as shown in the installation instructions without a direct connected liner. This also allows all creosote when cleaning to drop into Insert and prevents removing the Insert each time chimney is cleaned.
The early Inserts first made in 1979 had a chain control for damper on the right, later models had the lever. Yours should have a damper in the outlet which becomes your only control during open door burning with screen in place. If you have an efficient chimney the same size as Insert outlet, preferably insulated, you learn to close the damper partially since you need less heat to make the more efficient chimney work. That gives you more usable heat, cutting back fuel usage as well.
The mantel is not shown in your pic, but if wood, is it uncomfortable to keep your hand on it while in operation? That deflector is a very important part and can be made easily if you don't have one. It deflects heat out away from the hearth face and mantel.
Here is a thread showing the different blower styles as well as homemade. These blowers have become almost collector items and are no longer found cheap. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/made-a-blower-for-my-fisher-insert.117672/#post-1600025
Some side shrouds have slots for the side blowers to push air into, they all circulate out the top. Yours is bottom only without those slots.
Yes, a fireplace radiates heat directly forward from the flames and also the heat was absorbed into the mass, then into the room moving the air by convection, attempting to keep it in the building. The problem was the heat also rises in the mass through the roof, so the theory was extracting as much as possible. The Insert is built to remove the heat from between the firebox and outer air jacket without the loss into the masonry. This air space is under the firebox where cool air from the floor is drawn into the slot and forced toward the back, up the back and around the hottest part which is the vent outlet. By extracting the heat before it can heat the masonry mass, you are heating the air in the room with less loss through the masonry. If your fireplace is inside the building, like up the middle of the structure, it is much better than the back wall being outside where more heat absorbed would be wasted.
You need to make sure your outlet is connected to a flue the same size as outlet all the way to the top. This would be a chimney liner and is normally insulated to keep the inside of flue hot with the least amount of heat loss possible. It is no longer legal to install the appliance as shown in the installation instructions without a direct connected liner. This also allows all creosote when cleaning to drop into Insert and prevents removing the Insert each time chimney is cleaned.
The early Inserts first made in 1979 had a chain control for damper on the right, later models had the lever. Yours should have a damper in the outlet which becomes your only control during open door burning with screen in place. If you have an efficient chimney the same size as Insert outlet, preferably insulated, you learn to close the damper partially since you need less heat to make the more efficient chimney work. That gives you more usable heat, cutting back fuel usage as well.
The mantel is not shown in your pic, but if wood, is it uncomfortable to keep your hand on it while in operation? That deflector is a very important part and can be made easily if you don't have one. It deflects heat out away from the hearth face and mantel.
Here is a thread showing the different blower styles as well as homemade. These blowers have become almost collector items and are no longer found cheap. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/made-a-blower-for-my-fisher-insert.117672/#post-1600025
Some side shrouds have slots for the side blowers to push air into, they all circulate out the top. Yours is bottom only without those slots.
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