What kind of liner

[tiwvr1]

I am getting a new insert for my fireplace in a few days. The existing chimney is straight up 21' with no bends, meaning I could drop a straight pipe straight down the chimney into the fireplace. The dimensions of the chimeny are 12X12 I believe and the dimensions of the firebox are about 33X33X24 (yes, I know, way to huge) so I have plenty of room to work. The chimeny runs up a outside wall of the house and is constructed of brick. The whole wall that the fireplace is in is concrete block with no combustables. Could I just use standred 6" black stove pipe wrapped with insulation for a liner? I really don't want to buy a flexable one or spend the money on ss. Thank you

 

[edthedawg]

I predict a resounding NO in your future. Sorry - not trying to be rude But you can't use black stovepipe for a liner - gonna need to drop the $$ on a real liner kit. See this thread today (https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/31804/) about the ForeverFlex liner kit.

What stove are you installing?

 

[Pagey]

Another "NO" vote, sorry. You should not proceed with the installation if you are going to use single wall stove pipe. Just spend the extra and know that you have a safe, up to code installation with a limited lifetime warranty on the materials.

 

[gpcollen1]

$400 for a liner kit is quite reasonable and the way to go for the least $$. I am doing Duraliner over Christmas/new years in my second fireplace for my Jotul. Cost was manageable b/c of a nice guy on here that sold me some for cheap.

 

[BrotherBart]

The problem with using single wall stove pipe is corrosion both from the gases inside and the condensation outside of it. If you use quality single wall pipe like Simpson Dura Black the pipe alone is going to cost you two hundred bucks and then you need a connector for the stove, top plate for the chimney and a cap. All the while you could buy a stainless liner kit off of a vendor on eBay for around $400 and have a safe secure installation that is not only legal but one that you only have to do once.

What looks the cheapest up front isn't most of the time.

 

[tiwvr1]

Sorry guys, I was up in the mountains and didn't have time to replie. I got a new englander 13-nci. Now I got a few other questions, With the stove sitting in the old masonary fireplace there is a 10" gap from top of stove to old fireplace and about 4" on either side. These gaps do get covered with the outside plates that bolt on the the insert, and I am guessing they are ok to leave void, but the instructions are very vauge. Also the instructions state to stuff a non-conbustable material, such as fiberglass, around the stove pipe where it goes into the chimney. That way you are sucking draft from the stove, not around it. Is fiberglass really ok right against a non-insulated stove pipe? And thanks for all your help with the liner. I don't think I need one right now, after I got the old fireplace all removed I could see that there is a 8X8 clay square liner.

 

[tiwvr1]

Answered one of my own questions, I am just gonna make a metal heat shield to go around the stove pipe where it enters the flue then caulk it with stove caulk

 

[weezer4117]

tivrw1

i have a ss liner that i want to sell. it is a kit, 25' flex pipe 6", top plate, tee, tee cap, rain gaurd. let me know if you are interested! WG

 

[weezer4117]

tiwvr1

forgot to say its brand new in the box!!

 

[offroadaudio]

Just because you have 8 x 8 clay tile does not mean you are ok - the tiles could be cracked or the entire chimney could not be built to code - most are not.
It would still be cheaper to buy the flex kit, than pay for the level 2 inspection AND still need a liner anyway.

 

[tiwvr1]

Chimney was built in 1979, chimney is clean as a wistle and no cracks and the whole 15' wall the chimney goes up the out side of is brick on the inside and out with cement block in between, so I really don't think there would be a problem.