What's dry enough for you to burn?

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mattinpa

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Oct 25, 2008
91
Western Pa
Seasoning time aside, what moisture percentage is your cut-off for burning? Not talking about outdoor furnaces.
Indoor only, please.
 
I don't have a moisture meter and never had an urge to buy one. I can tell just by the weight if it's going to be too wet. If I'm picking through dry wood, looking for select pieces for starter, I will feel it with my bare hands and smell it.
 
Adios Pantalones said:
I don't have a meter either, so I wait until it's as dry as a popcorn fart in the desert. I keep one by the pile for reference.

How the heck do you catch it for comparison??? A net surely wouldn't work.
 
Adios Pantalones said:
I can't wait to see your "Lark" scooter when you get old.

I'm just trying to figure out if it will have NOX or a blower.
 

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madrone said:
Jags said:
Adios Pantalones said:
I can't wait to see your "Lark" scooter when you get old.

I'm just trying to figure out if it will have NOX or a blower.

carbon filtration.

Well played.

Now back to "how dry does the wood have to be...."
 
Even though we only have softwood to burn. I still like to be at 20% or slightly less. Seems to work for me.

EG-clean glass once a month,that`s it!!

CREOSOTE is EVIL!!!!
 
Jags said:
Adios Pantalones said:
I can't wait to see your "Lark" scooter when you get old.

I'm just trying to figure out if it will have NOX or a blower.
Nice scooter with the pink seat. Does it run on popcorn farts (methane)?
 
Just tonight I bought a cheap moisture meter from harbor gone bad freight and I tested it on a few splits.

Some oak that I have been having problems getting any heat out of tested at 25%

Some ash that has been marginal tested at 19%

Ash from my storage site that has been split for three years test at 10% and it burns the best.

I paid $15 for the meter and it seems to operate in direct comparison of how my wood burned. The wet stuff was terrible. The 19% burned OK but the 10% really put out the heat.

I have some ash outside that is from a tree I cut down this summer that has been split since I brought it home and I will test some of those pieces to see what they read tomorrow.

I do not buy into that split ash and burn it three months later after the reading I got tonight from the marginal stuff as it had been seasoned for 6 months.
 
The moisture meter is a good guide.. It is not the be and end all.

Discussion on a different post. smoke still coming out of the chimney. well, you may split a dozen or so pieces and they may all measure 20% moisture or less.. doesn`t mean that a piece or two may not sneak into the stove/insert that is well above that reading.

Mostly, when you get to know the wood you are burning and how much it weighs wet as opposed to dry-that is your best guide.

Nothing wrong with moisture meters, I have one and wouldn`t be without it. but it is not a panacea..

It is simply a tool to help you get to the right place--that is all it is..
 
mattrookie said:
Seasoning time aside, what moisture percentage is your cut-off for burning? Not talking about outdoor furnaces.
Indoor only, please.

No idea. I've never worried about moisture content. Fir needs 4 months in the woodshed, maple needs a year. The end.
 
Zen question of the week. If you burn fires and window stays clean, does that mean you are burning seasoned wood?
 
carl spackler said:
Zen question of the week. If you burn fires and window stays clean, does that mean you are burning seasoned wood?

on a related note, can a split be wet and not hiss/sizzle/foam like a rabid dog?
 
carl spackler said:
Zen question of the week. If you burn fires and window stays clean, does that mean you are burning seasoned wood?

No. It just means that you have the temp of the stove high enough to keep the glass clean.......Oooohm!
 
I burn what i know is season the most frist and so on!
 
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