What's with my stove??

[cmonSTART]

Ok, here's another question which has me wondering.. What is this whole 35 to 1 thing? We purchased our stove (Englander 12FP) new a couple years ago shortly after we bought our house, but it's not EPA certified. I bought it because it had a damper in the exit, which is what I was used to, not knowing too much about stoves certified air tight stoves and efficiency*. (Buy now, learn later. One of these days I'll learn my lesson.) Anyone have any knowledge of this stove, or what exactly the 35 to 1 thing is? I would appreciate it.

*This coming year, after the winter, we're going to open up the downstairs of our house and purchase an EPA certified stove. $3.00/gal heating oil I'll take all the efficiency I can get.

Thanks again guys!

My Stove: http://www.englanderstoves.com/12-fp.html

 

[Corie]

You'll notice on the website that the 12FP is really designed more so to have a beautiful flame pattern and be a decorative burning stove, rather than a serious heat producer. Unfortunately, these are the constraints of using the 35-1 technology. Essentially 35:1 means that the air-fuel ratio of the stove cannot drop below 35:1 which is quite high, BUT ensures a lively flame pattern and relatively low emissions. For comparison, a non-catalytic secondary combustion stove can operate down around 14:1 and many times lower. This means you get longer burn times and more constant heat output.

If you have operational questions, I'd be happy to give you some tips as to how best to run the stove, but obviously you've probably already realized that running the stove perfectly will still not make it a heating power-house; it was not designed to be one though, so the performance you're seeing is typical of how the stove works. I highly recommend upgrading to the 13NC at the end of the burning season, when Home Depot begins it's end of year mark downs. I think you'll be glad that you did.

 

[cmonSTART]

You indeed have mentioned the model I've been looking at for an upgrade. You also confirmed a lot of suspicions I had about the stove. I would love to hear any tips you have on running the stove. I'm about --> <-- that close to running to Home Depot now.

 

[Corie]

First, I want to make sure you're running with the flue damper open; this means that the brass spring handle on the damper is pointing to the left.

The next thing you need to be certain of is that you have a good heavy ash bed; this is important for a number of reasons I won't go in to.

Load it on a fresh bed of coals, and fill the firebox, leave the overfire air open until you see flames and then close it. You'll still see flames, but they should be slower and more transparent that the standard bold yellow and orange flames you're seeing.

Watch your stack and stove temperatures. If its getting too hot, you have to be careful, because you can't close the air intake to slow it down. In an emergency, you can shut the factory stack damper, but otherwise that damper is only used to prevent downdrafts when the stove is not in operation; it is not meant to modulate the burn rate.

 

[cmonSTART]

Interesting. I've been in the habit of burning it up sort of hot and then closing the stack damper and doing most of the burn with it closed. You're saying to not use the damper and close the intake when burning. Interesting. Should it be closed all the way? And out of curiosity, why is it best to burn with the stack damper open? Is it a matter of creosote deposits in the chimney? We've also been considering the electric blower for the back. Does the same blower fit the 13NC? I just noticed you work for the company. I really appreciate your input, and I'm really glad I joined this forum.

This stove fit our needs when we just needed a supplemental source of heat, but now that we're pretty much reliant on it, it's not cutting the mustard. The bad thing is we can't afford the $739.00 for the 13NC yet.. Time to start scraping pennies together.

 

[Corie]

The stack damper was designed, as I said, to be a downdraft blocker, just like in a factory built zero clearance fireplace. It is not meant to be a burn modulating device. It should be opened when burning and the slider above the door should be used to modulate the burn rate. You can operate on low, because even at the low setting, the stove is still above 35:1 and you should still have active flames.

The blower for the back is the AC-16 and will fit both the 13 and 12, so you could switch it over down the road, if you so choose.

As I said, your best bet would be wait for the end of the year clearance at Home Depot before picking up the 13NC. You will be amazed at the difference. And yes, I do work for the company, however the 12FP was developed before I arrived here, I did not design the stove.

 

[Gooserider]

The stack damper was designed, as I said, to be a downdraft blocker, just like in a factory built zero clearance fireplace. It is not meant to be a burn modulating device. It should be opened when burning and the slider above the door should be used to modulate the burn rate. You can operate on low, because even at the low setting, the stove is still above 35:1 and you should still have active flames.

The blower for the back is the AC-16 and will fit both the 13 and 12, so you could switch it over down the road, if you so choose.

As I said, your best bet would be wait for the end of the year clearance at Home Depot before picking up the 13NC. You will be amazed at the difference. And yes, I do work for the company, however the 12FP was developed before I arrived here, I did not design the stove.

While true, it is a great "cop out" line - "Don't blame me, It's not MY baby..." :lol: While I suppose the 12 does what it was designed for, I look forward to seeing more of your designs coming out as great heaters, not just great lookers...

Gooserider