With the stove running during the day with a half full load max (I'm here so I can monitor every 1/2 hour or so), my Jotul Oslo burns at about 350 degrees with the damper 1/2 open. If I choke the damper down (half load max), shes runs at about 250. What are others running at? What is considered an efficient burning termp? Given current outside temps in the 40's, this provides the heat I need. When it gets colder I suppose I will put more wood in.
What's your cruising temp.?
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I have an Olso also, placement may be key for my reasons to run a bit different than others, the stove is in the basement.
On cool days, 30s and low 40s, I'll run it hot (500) in the morning until the first floor warms up, 1-2 hours depending how cool it got in the house overnight. Then I'll add 3 medium splits with the damper more than 1/2 way and cruise at about 425 for about 1 - 1 1/2 hours. It will drop down to 250 after 2 1/2 hours and just some red coals will be present. By then it is lunch and the sun is up high. If it starts to cool a bit in the house, I'll add 3 more splits and let it go at 425 again. I seem to get much more heat at 425 than 350, so the bursts of 425 work better for me when I am home. Also, with the stove in the basement, I don't get blown out with heat like one would with an Olso running at 425 in an average sized living room.
And at night I stuff it full at 10pm and bring the damper back to below 1/2. The heat in my house stays steady until 2am. It dwindles slowly down from there until I do it all over again the next morning.
On cool days, 30s and low 40s, I'll run it hot (500) in the morning until the first floor warms up, 1-2 hours depending how cool it got in the house overnight. Then I'll add 3 medium splits with the damper more than 1/2 way and cruise at about 425 for about 1 - 1 1/2 hours. It will drop down to 250 after 2 1/2 hours and just some red coals will be present. By then it is lunch and the sun is up high. If it starts to cool a bit in the house, I'll add 3 more splits and let it go at 425 again. I seem to get much more heat at 425 than 350, so the bursts of 425 work better for me when I am home. Also, with the stove in the basement, I don't get blown out with heat like one would with an Olso running at 425 in an average sized living room.
And at night I stuff it full at 10pm and bring the damper back to below 1/2. The heat in my house stays steady until 2am. It dwindles slowly down from there until I do it all over again the next morning.
'Only have lodgepole pine to burn. Cool nights: 375. Cold nights: 575. All-nighter: reload on top of coals, peak at 600, go to 25-30% primary air, cruises in 450 range for an 1.5 -2.5 hrs, then gradual cooling all night. 150 to 200 in the morning.
Jotul Firelight CB
Dexter
Jotul Firelight CB
Dexter
80s Burnout said:
Where are you measuring these temps (stovetop, stove pipe surface, Flue gas temp)? That makes all the difference in the world.
My cruise temps:
stove top = 550F
Flue gas temps = 450F
Edit: stove top temp of 250-350F ain't even hot enough to light off my secondary burn.
The Castine ran about 350 to 550. The T6 hasn't been opened up yet, but for shoulder season burning it has been running between 400 and 550 with shorter fires.
250-350 seems pretty cool. If the stove is getting good secondary combustion, maybe check the thermometer?
250-350 seems pretty cool. If the stove is getting good secondary combustion, maybe check the thermometer?
i burn mostly spruce and very little birch in my osburn 1600. here now its about 15-20 below at night and about 0 during the day. i adjust mine to burn at around 400 and about 500 when i put a new log in to get it going better. i meassure mine with a magnetic thermometer on the top of the stove about 3 inches foward of the stack which is roughly in the middle of the top. thats what i watch mostly but i do have one on my stack about 18 inch's above the stove. it never gets above about 400 no mater what i do mostly becuase it isnt in the air flow just magneticly stuck to the pipe so i pay more attention to the one on my stove and that one hasnt seen over 600. it burns worm and clean around 400 though with the air control barely open i would say at about 1/10 inch or less open for about 2 hours or so if its loaded with 2-3 small split logs (about 1/2 to 3/4 full).
In the morning I restoke on top of coals and get to 600, turn it down and it levels off at 500. When I get home 9 hours later its usually at 350. i repeat my morning routine run it up to 650 with a full load, gradually turn the thermostat down and it cruises at 500. Gotta love the Pricness, load it twice a day and top floor of house is at 78-81 when its way below zero.
Temperature is based on stove top reading. Readings on flue collar tend to be about 100 degrees less.
Stove top grittle temps with a normal burn for me is between 450 and 600.
I reload at 300, let it warm back up and engage the cat. I have never loaded the stove
over 1/2 way --- it always seems to run away and over heat to much with more wood.
I just burn nights and weekends so I can keep an eye on it.
I reload at 300, let it warm back up and engage the cat. I have never loaded the stove
over 1/2 way --- it always seems to run away and over heat to much with more wood.
I just burn nights and weekends so I can keep an eye on it.
Is there some danger in having a flue pipe consistently at above 400? I have an older stove I am trying to get to run slower. It would easily go to 600 quickly and beyond if left open. What bothers me is that I have a fairly short run that slopes about an inch or so from the turn of the outgoing pipe to the chimney. The other day the stove ran at near 400 for about a half hour and when I got up and felt the ceiling above the pipe it was too hot to touch.. The pipe is about 18 inches from the ceiling which is the minimum recommended. I am concerned some may not realize how much heat they may be exposing the homes framing too? If I put a small load of say 5 medium to small pieces the current stove wants to run at a minimum of 350 which according to this discussion would be fine, but it bothers me that the stove has to be shut down air wise to even get it to slow that much. I fixed some air leaks and am going to look for more today.
Smoky,
I agree! I am not sure why at that temperature the heat would be so intense at the ceiling above the 3 foot run that is slightly sloped. I did take the pipe down and shorten the upright run about a inch to help keep the heat moving.. I am wondering if the heat is getting sort of trapped in that run due to the couple turns it takes in the wall and the slight slope to the pipe. I am hoping the little increase in slope will help but not sure yet. Its been rather mild here so testing is limited. I think I am getting a bit better control, but easily to go to 400 which is where many people say they run their stoves. If the stove is going to keep tending to overheat the pipe and the ceiling keeps getting too hot I am going to change the run to flexible elbows which would allow a steeper slope to the chimney which should direct the heat away from the ceiling quite a lot. I have run many stoves here and usually don't get that overheated effect. I have a ceiling fan near the stove which could be used t help cool off the ceiling should I get too hot a fire going. It happened before on yet another older air leaking stove. The ceiling was very hot, but running the fan in reverse did help to take some of the heat off.
I agree! I am not sure why at that temperature the heat would be so intense at the ceiling above the 3 foot run that is slightly sloped. I did take the pipe down and shorten the upright run about a inch to help keep the heat moving.. I am wondering if the heat is getting sort of trapped in that run due to the couple turns it takes in the wall and the slight slope to the pipe. I am hoping the little increase in slope will help but not sure yet. Its been rather mild here so testing is limited. I think I am getting a bit better control, but easily to go to 400 which is where many people say they run their stoves. If the stove is going to keep tending to overheat the pipe and the ceiling keeps getting too hot I am going to change the run to flexible elbows which would allow a steeper slope to the chimney which should direct the heat away from the ceiling quite a lot. I have run many stoves here and usually don't get that overheated effect. I have a ceiling fan near the stove which could be used t help cool off the ceiling should I get too hot a fire going. It happened before on yet another older air leaking stove. The ceiling was very hot, but running the fan in reverse did help to take some of the heat off.
Larry have you thought about maybe installing Double Wall Stove pipe. I would freak out if I couldn't put my hand on any combustable surface in my home.
I know it might be a little more expensive, but how much is your safety worth?
I know it might be a little more expensive, but how much is your safety worth?
450-500 seems to be the key temps for a successful fire for me. Any lower and it dies out too soon. Higher and it gets out of control.
I have considered to add some extra piece of split regular pipe and sort of fashion a hood above the existing pipe for the horizontal run. I think if it were cut to fit over the top 1/3 of the pipe it would deflect enough of the radiated heat to prevent the hot surface. I really don't want to do that if I can avoid it. I have had wood stoves off and on in the same flue with similar pipe runs and don't usually get that hot an effect. Although I don't know how often I get up there and really touch it either. I will keep an eye on it. The stove has a check damper in the flue and after I freed it up I tested it and it dropped the flu by 100 degrees when I opened it. But thats only good if you are here and know you need to do it.. I don't know if I could run the stove with that damper open all the time, it would cool the pipe for sure, but would it cause creosote if used regularly? I think maybe only if it keeps the chimney too cool? If it persist I will have to make the change in layout to a steeper slope. I just hate to do that because the added two sections of flex pipe just never look right, but I too want it safe.. A double wall pipe wouldn't work too well trying to go into a stainless steel 6" lining either would it? I am trying to keep it from looking too weird. .
I like my stove top at about 450*. I can get a 6 or 7 hour burn during the day out of this and it keeps the area at a comfy 75*.
When I set it up at night I close all the vents and the stove top hovers at about 300-350*...for the most part. I think it may fall below that when I'm not looking, though. It's an old stove so the temps will vary and I have to adjust the vents periodically to keep the temp at a consistent spot.
I can't complain. The house is more comfortable than it has ever been and my oil consumption has drop dramatically. Would a newer stove been more efficient? Of course. But, so far, the VC is performing better than I had hoped.
When I set it up at night I close all the vents and the stove top hovers at about 300-350*...for the most part. I think it may fall below that when I'm not looking, though. It's an old stove so the temps will vary and I have to adjust the vents periodically to keep the temp at a consistent spot.
I can't complain. The house is more comfortable than it has ever been and my oil consumption has drop dramatically. Would a newer stove been more efficient? Of course. But, so far, the VC is performing better than I had hoped.
i'm curious where your temp meter is vic 99 .i have an older hearthtone 82' our meter is 6" away from stove we run her at 250 -350 . keeps us warm, little build up in the chimney but have noticed over the past 5 years the enamal is failing. could be just old age. wonder if they can be reenameld.
8nrider said:
Would you mind explaining this. Something doesn't sound right. Is this 6" up on the pipe?
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