I have a jotul castine wood stove and use it as my primary heat source.. We have been using it for about 2 and a half winters this last winter i noticed it really would heat up fast and i had a little trouble controlling the burn as it would over fire according to the temp gauge i have on top...i think that might be my fault but i am always nervous about loading it up with a lot of wood before bed. how do i know when to rebuild?
When to rebuild a cast iron woodstove
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Did you buy it new? I'd suggest now. You may have a problem with seals that's causing the stove to be hard to control and over fire. It could be letting in too much air. I don't remember anyone having problems with that stove around here, but some f3cb's did have some top sealing troubles.
Has the stove always been this way? Check that the door and the ash pan are sealing correctly. Look for debris on the gaskets and sealing edges. If the stove is only 2.5 yrs. old, it shouldn't need rebuilding. However, if it's always drawn hard from the beginning, perhaps it's the setup? How is it installed and how high is the chimney? Maybe it needs a draft damper?
The top sealing problem on the F3CB was installation error. The result was poor, uneven burning and less heat produced by the stove on one side.
The top sealing problem on the F3CB was installation error. The result was poor, uneven burning and less heat produced by the stove on one side.
Sparkey, Keep us updated. Both Warren & BeGreen are correct. I have had the same stove and same results since 2001 when I purchased it. Hopefully I haven't just jinxed myself,but... I'm not planing any rebuilt as of yet going into this season. All I do Is remove top & baffle prior to season to clean stove & pipe and in mid January another outside chimney sweep from the bottom up tee clean-out.
You really should leak test the stove before you get into the major task of a rebuild. After you clean the stove out good put a light inside and turn out the lights to see if you see any of the light leaking out at any seam. Then do the dollar bill test on the door gasket. All around the door put a dollar bill in the seam and close the door. The gasket should give resistence when you try to pull it out with the door closed. If the bill slips out easily, replace the door gasket. Do the same thing with the ashpan gasket.
If you don't find anything then fire up the stove and after it is drawing well, pass a match or any flame around the joints in the castings and if there is a leak the flame will be drawn to it. Just patch the leaking point either inside or outside the stove with furnace cement. Preferably inside but if you do it outside you can wipe unsightly excess off with a wet rag before it dries.
If you don't find anything then fire up the stove and after it is drawing well, pass a match or any flame around the joints in the castings and if there is a leak the flame will be drawn to it. Just patch the leaking point either inside or outside the stove with furnace cement. Preferably inside but if you do it outside you can wipe unsightly excess off with a wet rag before it dries.
Excellent point BB , I assumed most people knew about the dollar bill test. Shame on me. By the way I guess we should remind those that don't know about the bill test that it shouldn't be done during a fire . LOL
adrpga498 said:
I always understood that in Fairfield County, CT that the the butler used dollar bills for the top down method of starting a fire in the stove.
Explain you normal mode of opperations? How much inlet air time you allow before adjustments.
when do you damper it down. Then explain your venting and chimney setup Interior exterior Class A or masonry ect.
I doubt is needs a total rebuild in 10 /12 or so years that might be the case. It could be just adjusting the door latch or ash door or both. Place a 100 watt or greater wattage bulb inside in the dark and walk around the stove and check for leaks. Using a strong flash light check the vent pipe connection to and collar. Many times if not sealed,you will find light leakes in the dark. Is there an ash cleanout door or doors to that flue or to a central bottom chamber? these doors leak. Since there should be no heat around them I seal them tight with common caulking. the light may also expose weak gasketingYou might drop the light down the flue collar and see it light escapes around the door gasket. With the strong flashlight aim it at seams I use the strong flash light to double check after the 100 watt bulb test good luck and repost your setup info and any findings
when do you damper it down. Then explain your venting and chimney setup Interior exterior Class A or masonry ect.
I doubt is needs a total rebuild in 10 /12 or so years that might be the case. It could be just adjusting the door latch or ash door or both. Place a 100 watt or greater wattage bulb inside in the dark and walk around the stove and check for leaks. Using a strong flash light check the vent pipe connection to and collar. Many times if not sealed,you will find light leakes in the dark. Is there an ash cleanout door or doors to that flue or to a central bottom chamber? these doors leak. Since there should be no heat around them I seal them tight with common caulking. the light may also expose weak gasketingYou might drop the light down the flue collar and see it light escapes around the door gasket. With the strong flashlight aim it at seams I use the strong flash light to double check after the 100 watt bulb test good luck and repost your setup info and any findings
To better see the leaks, tape some black plastic over the glass before doing the light test. (and remove it before lighting up the stove.)
PS: Looks like I'll be joining the Castine club next week I hope. We have a blue-black on order.
PS: Looks like I'll be joining the Castine club next week I hope. We have a blue-black on order.
Sparky7720 said:
You might also do a sanity (calibration) check on your temp guage (stove thermometer?). Maybe stick it in your cooking oven if you have a dependable oven thermometer in there, and compare the difference in readings. Or take it somewhere (not sure where) and compare against something else known to be accurate (my b-n-l tested his against calibrated instruments in his chemical process gear at work). Or buy a second thermometer of a different brand. They're only about $15. Cheap compared to the headache of a rebuild and some of the other trouble shooting techniques. Might be a good place to start.
And don't forget to check the suggested temps recommended in your manual to be sure it is actually running too hot. Some of the Too Hot areas on stove thermometers are just guessing at typical heat ranges. Your stove may not agree with the thermometer's Too Hot range.
thanks for all your suggestions...i have built a couple of fires already and it seems to be doing fine...i would like to ask one more question though...i sometimes open the ash pan to get the fire going...i know i am not supposed to but it really gets it buring well and it doesn't take long..i always have the upper door open as well not to create too much upward pressure....thanks again...
So if the question is - Is this OK?, the answer is no, it voids the warranty. There are better ways to start the stove. Stop over to the thread about the cedar super starters. Ask Thomas for a sample. Or slice up a duraflame log and use a chunk to get it going.
FWIW, I have been able to start the stove by just leaving the door open about an inch and using pieces of dry cedar shakes under cabinetry scraps. It only takes about 5 minutes to get a nice blaze started.
FWIW, I have been able to start the stove by just leaving the door open about an inch and using pieces of dry cedar shakes under cabinetry scraps. It only takes about 5 minutes to get a nice blaze started.
yes i guess you are right i have some old lath from my house i should use...i always seem to fall behind on my kindling....need to hit some cabinet shops,....i do go to the truss plant where they have lots of 2x4 scrap...i can't lose this stove it is all we have to keep us warm..in montana winters... thanks....
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