I just joined today and need advice which Hearthstone to choose. I had a dealer come out yesterday and he said the Heritage is the largest that would fit in my fireplace. My fireplace is 32X46 and the Equinox would work, except for the 6.5 inch rectangle flue. I talked with someone else and he said that you could get an 8" oval pipe. Is this true? I'm just afraid that the Heritage will not put out enough heat for my 1948 drafty house. I will be heating 1800 sq. ft. downstairs and hopefully another 1200 upstairs, although I like the upstairs cooler, around 65 degrees. The fireplace is located in the center-front of the great room. The great room is 34X25, with the kitchen, dining room 16X33 on one side, and a bedroom 17X23 on the other side. My kitchen is always cold, being on the north side of the house. I plan to use a fan to pull the air into the kitchen. I have a stairway off the great room and one in the kitchen, so the heat can rise upstairs. I also have a glass sunroom on the wall opposite the fireplace that gets cold. The only plus with the glass is when the sun shines and warms the room during the day. I'm really scared to get the Heritage and find out it's not enough heat. It's a lot of money not to work. I really need advice as I've never owned a wood stove and my fireplace uses too much wood and is too inefficient to use all the time. Also, I really like the looks of the Hearthstone and the even heat versus steel or cast iron. HELP?!
WHICH SIZE HEARTHSTONE?
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I have a similar layout. You can see the sunroom doorwalls on the south of the house. The photo from behind shows the kitchen and foyer to the north. I have a second floor that heat has to rise to. It is usually 5-6 dgrees cooler upstairs. The EQ has done everything I have asked it to. I am glad I did not go smaller. I have yet to load it to full capacity. Maybe I will when we hit sub-arctic temps. Good luck with your install.
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Welcome!
The Heritage will be too small to heat all that (drafty) area. What size is the existing flue, 6.5" x ? They do sell oval liners and many folks use them. Depending on what you have for a flue, I'd suggest either the Mansfield or the EQ. Given your fireplace and flue space constraints, the Mansfield might very well be your best bet. Don't get the Heritage, it's way too small!
The Heritage will be too small to heat all that (drafty) area. What size is the existing flue, 6.5" x ? They do sell oval liners and many folks use them. Depending on what you have for a flue, I'd suggest either the Mansfield or the EQ. Given your fireplace and flue space constraints, the Mansfield might very well be your best bet. Don't get the Heritage, it's way too small!
jlow said:
Wow , thats a beautiful room. Nice install. For the OP, I would have someone measure the tile both ways. You can get an 8" flex liner ovalized to 6x10 more or less, with an oval tee and round take off in the fireplace that would plug into the back of an Equinox. Thats a hell of a good stove, for your size area I would make it work. Make any provisions needed to have enough stove sticking out to get the radiant heat benifits and to use the side door. Where in Southern NY?
Wow, that is a beautiful room. I love the dogs. I have cats and a dog, so with the Hearthstone, I don't have to worry about them getting burned if they get too close. I have a Four Seasons sun room on one end and my fireplace is about 25 feet away on the other side. I can't use the Mansfield because of the top flue opening. I agree that the Heritage is too small. The damper opening in my fireplace is 6" X 41" rectangular then opens into a large space going into a round opening. I couldn't get in far enough to measure the other opening, but it looks to be at least 8". I'm in Putnam County, NY. Is there somewhere on-line that I could look at the oval pipe? Thanks
I just got off the phone with the dealer and asked him about the oval pipe (don't you hate it when you have to tell them something?) and he said the big problem with the Equinox is that you have to add extra support to the floor because the stove is so heavy. Did you have to do that? I went down into my basement and the good thing is that the footprint of the block foundation is the same size as my fireplace upstairs plus the hearth, which means that the stone slab actually is sitting over the concrete blocks. I don't see why this wouldn't be enough support. I have no idea what is in the middle and I'm not about to tear anything down to see. By the way, my house is cold today with the wind blowing and it isn't that cold outside. That's with the oil baseboard heat on. That's why oil is costing me $500/month. I think I would save the cost of the stove in a year, plus the tax credit helps.
Its way easier to get a 6" flue down a chimney but the EQ would give you the heat you need .
It sounds like your dealer is looking for a easy instal . John
It sounds like your dealer is looking for a easy instal . John
I am very happy with my hearstone EQ. I was very suprised at how heavy the stove is. You read the weight but until it comes out of the truck you cant visualize it.There were 3 installers and if I had not been around they could not of got it in. I bought cheap tarps and covered my wood floor then laid a solid path of particle board on the tarps that covered my solid wood floor.
The installer had never sold a HQ. He laughed at my prep work. After we were done he was not laughing any more. He said if he installs any more EQs he has to buy more equipment.
Can you tell how the floor is built? you may need to add some temporary bracing under the delievery area. I would not move across the floor without doing some research. Get some numbers (span & joist size & spacing). Im shure some here will have an opinion on the numbers 3 or 4 people moving the stove could equal 3/4 of a ton in a confined area.
That being said you will love the EQ.
The installer had never sold a HQ. He laughed at my prep work. After we were done he was not laughing any more. He said if he installs any more EQs he has to buy more equipment.
Can you tell how the floor is built? you may need to add some temporary bracing under the delievery area. I would not move across the floor without doing some research. Get some numbers (span & joist size & spacing). Im shure some here will have an opinion on the numbers 3 or 4 people moving the stove could equal 3/4 of a ton in a confined area.
That being said you will love the EQ.
If you look at the pictures I posted earlier, you can see the placement of the stove. It is directly on top of the foundation wall from the basement. The sunroom portion is on a cement slab. No problem with the support. Yours sounds exactly the same. You should be fine.
wellbuilt home said:
Thats the first thing I thought of. Dealer looking for the easy way out. The Equinox weighs the same as 4 men standing together in a circle. You may want to try your next closest Hearthstone dealer
Dogs and cats, people too, love the radiant heat. Major belly roaster and a great stove to sleep in front of.
The heritage is too small and the stone stoves will not put up with you overfiring it to make it work. You really need a larger stove. Square footage near 3000 and in a drafty 1948 (poor insulation) house that puts you into the EQ.
You would be money ahead to take care of the draftiness and insulation too. Those things can also qualify for the tax credit.
The heritage is too small and the stone stoves will not put up with you overfiring it to make it work. You really need a larger stove. Square footage near 3000 and in a drafty 1948 (poor insulation) house that puts you into the EQ.
You would be money ahead to take care of the draftiness and insulation too. Those things can also qualify for the tax credit.
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I love the pictures. What is under the floor? Did you have to add extra support? My hearth is only 7-8 feet from the front door. Will the floor need support for the stove to be carried in? The stone slab in front of the fireplace is on the block foundation in the basement, but it is old, probably built in 1948. I have to confess, this makes me very nervous. Another question. If you use an oval adapter to reduce the stove pipe to 5.5" to come through the damper and then adapt it back to 8" past the damper, will that affect the stove performance? Will creosote gather in the reduced area? Another question. How can you clean the pipe once the stove is installed? There will be no moving the stove to access the pipe from inside the fireplace. I can't use rigid smooth liner because my chimney has a slight bend in it going up. I actually called my chimney cleaner and his wife told me he doesn't like wood stoves in a fireplace, because of the difficulty cleaning. And, finally, if I could make the Mansfield work, do you think it will do the job? It weighs less at 575 pounds giving off 80,000 btu's, which supposedly heats 2500 sq. ft. vs the Heritage at 1900 sq. ft. Sorry for so many questions, but I'm exploring all my options.
Don't worry about the floor or foundation, the stove doesn't weigh that much! As stated above, it only weighs about as much as four men.
You absolutely do not want to reduce the EQ from 8" down to 5.5". Cut the damper, you wont need it anyway.
I'd go with the EQ if you can make it work, but the Mansfield would obviously be your next best choice if the EQ wont work for one reason or another... assuming you want to stick within the HS lineup.
You absolutely do not want to reduce the EQ from 8" down to 5.5". Cut the damper, you wont need it anyway.
I'd go with the EQ if you can make it work, but the Mansfield would obviously be your next best choice if the EQ wont work for one reason or another... assuming you want to stick within the HS lineup.
You did notice that this is the heritage right? It looks pretty much just like the EQ but about half sized and only 500#. To that 500#s you need to add the tile and mortar weight (at least 50#), the 2 layers of durock (200#) and then you should consider the max wood load weight which is like 50# and then if some fat chick wants to stand next to the stove and warm her rolls maybe another 250.
I did add extra support. It's hard to notice but the stove sits where a fireplace once sat. My old style construction, 1962, was big beams on 5 foot centers and then 1.5" tongue and groove decking running perpendicular to that. The stove would set between two of the beams so I built a 2x8 frame and supported it against the floor decking with 2 new beams and concrete supports. The cool adjustable pier pads. Click on my OAK link in my sig to see the supports from under the stove. I probably didn't have to do it but it was cheap and I feel better.
The raised hearth is made of steel studs and was done to provide the required R-value for the hearth. We actually like the raised hearth.
For crying out load, cut the damper out of your fireplace. This is how it's done. You still might need to "ovalize" or smash the liner a bit to get it through. All bends, or restrictions add head loss to the draft of the chimney. If the length of the chimney is above the minimum then I wouldn't worry about those relatively minor fittings and shape changes.
You clean the pipe by standing on your roof and shoving the brush all the way into the stove. If the restriction at the flue is too severe then you might have a tight spot there. Try to avoid that tight spot. I've never tried to shove an 8" round brush through a 5.5" oval section so I can't comment on if it will fit. Perhaps you will need to brush with two sizes of brush or unhook from below to brush the last bit. Ug. Try and have the installers bust out clearance for the 8" liner.
The mansfield is undergunned. Figure that the heat will be trying to escape up to the upstairs. The stove room will be warm but heat will have a hard time warming other rooms downstairs.
I did add extra support. It's hard to notice but the stove sits where a fireplace once sat. My old style construction, 1962, was big beams on 5 foot centers and then 1.5" tongue and groove decking running perpendicular to that. The stove would set between two of the beams so I built a 2x8 frame and supported it against the floor decking with 2 new beams and concrete supports. The cool adjustable pier pads. Click on my OAK link in my sig to see the supports from under the stove. I probably didn't have to do it but it was cheap and I feel better.
The raised hearth is made of steel studs and was done to provide the required R-value for the hearth. We actually like the raised hearth.
For crying out load, cut the damper out of your fireplace. This is how it's done. You still might need to "ovalize" or smash the liner a bit to get it through. All bends, or restrictions add head loss to the draft of the chimney. If the length of the chimney is above the minimum then I wouldn't worry about those relatively minor fittings and shape changes.
You clean the pipe by standing on your roof and shoving the brush all the way into the stove. If the restriction at the flue is too severe then you might have a tight spot there. Try to avoid that tight spot. I've never tried to shove an 8" round brush through a 5.5" oval section so I can't comment on if it will fit. Perhaps you will need to brush with two sizes of brush or unhook from below to brush the last bit. Ug. Try and have the installers bust out clearance for the 8" liner.
The mansfield is undergunned. Figure that the heat will be trying to escape up to the upstairs. The stove room will be warm but heat will have a hard time warming other rooms downstairs.
jlow said:
Jlow,
You should post those pics every few days or so.
Beautiful layout.
How big are the labs? That is a big stove, and the dogs look like they could carry it away.
Dave
It seems lately that I have posted the pics alot. Threads seem to warrant it (log storage, location, and whight bearing) Appreciate the compliments, but, I think I would have been a little lost withoutthis forum.
My two boys are 10(73 lbs.) & 7 (78lbs.). They like laying around when the stove is goin' strong. I thought it may be too warm for them, but, I was wrong.
My two boys are 10(73 lbs.) & 7 (78lbs.). They like laying around when the stove is goin' strong. I thought it may be too warm for them, but, I was wrong.
Well, just when you thought you had it all figured out, I went to another dealer yesterday and actually saw the Equinox and Mansfield in person. I took my measurements with me and measured the stoves. I think the Mansfield won't work because it will have to be placed all the way in my fireplace to get the flue straight up my chimney because of the top flue. That means only 10" will be outside the fireplace. Seems like major heat loss. As far as the Equinox goes, about 5 inches will be inside. Where the top of the stove is, I have 20" for the hearth and another 14" inside to the back of the fireplace because of the slant from the bottom-back wall. What this means is about 5" of the Equinox will be inside the fireplace and I won't be able to use the side door and the fireplace will probably absorb a lot of the heat. I'm not sure if this thing will fit. I have a total of 34" front to back at the top of my fireplace opening. The opening is 30 3/4" high X 46 3/8" wide X 34" deep. Will the Equinox work? The brochure doesn't give the dimensions with from the leg front to the back with the pipe installed in the rear. Does anyone have the Equinox with the rear pipe and can you give me the dimensions from the front of the legs to the back of the pipe? The leg dimensions front to back are 25 5/8". How much more do you add for the rear pipe? If this doesn't work, what do you guys thing of the Jotul Firelight? It's comparable size-wize to the Mansfield and it will fit on my hearth. The guy at the store kept taking me over to it to look at and it only weighs 465 pounds. I think he liked it better than the Hearthstone.
jug- as someone who has been going through the same process with the same stoves- here are my thoughts-a firelight would be a challenge unless you can get the stove far enough out on the hearth so that the side door can open more than 90 degrees- less than 90 and you can't really load correctly- but i would want more to lessen the real chance of burns from the door. I have owned a firelight and I think that using it as a front loader would be miserable- the door's are awkward and the ash would spill- if you really loaded it
Have you looked at a t-6? the convection might deal well with being back in the cavity- similar insertion to mansfield- note if you have a combustible mantle that they will not quote a safe clearance to it-I asked
Both the mansfield and equinox offer rear shields- I had not thought about them but I saw them at the factory and they were recommended by the sales guy I talked to there- they are somewhat different from the rear shields I am used to in that they rise a bit over the top of the stove and angle to the front directing the warm air forward- too, you can get a blower. I don't think that they would be unsightly as they would sit back in the cavity relatively high.
I believe you would add about 10 to 11 inches to the depth of the eq to the back of the stove pipe-depending on the elbow
Have you looked at a t-6? the convection might deal well with being back in the cavity- similar insertion to mansfield- note if you have a combustible mantle that they will not quote a safe clearance to it-I asked
Both the mansfield and equinox offer rear shields- I had not thought about them but I saw them at the factory and they were recommended by the sales guy I talked to there- they are somewhat different from the rear shields I am used to in that they rise a bit over the top of the stove and angle to the front directing the warm air forward- too, you can get a blower. I don't think that they would be unsightly as they would sit back in the cavity relatively high.
I believe you would add about 10 to 11 inches to the depth of the eq to the back of the stove pipe-depending on the elbow
yes -last week I had to be in Stowe for business and found out my meetings were only about 15 miles from the factory- they are not really set up for visitors (or really even the public phoning in) but i found them to be quite nice and helpful once I arrived
the rear shield on the eq with the quiet blower would work.the air comes out 2 inches off the top of stove. The front load would be fine. Hearthstone would not sell the side lockout if it didn't. You may want a little shorter logs. Look at the firebox size and the glass size.this stove is beautiful. Get it right. I don't think it would be a big deal for a mason to square out the front. Add in some soapstone on the remodel and it may tie all togather. Be creative if your staying in the house a long time.
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