Which Wood Furnace
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Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
Sorry for all the late replys. I'm out of town right now and I don't get the emails for when there is new posts. I have a hard time using menards website on my cell phone. I was wrong I just checked and I paid $1899 I remember the sale was the week prior and it was $1699, but I missed it. So $1699 is a good deal. The smaller model I believe was $1499 at the time, but I opted for the bigger one.Ok thank you @Wisneaky. Maybe I'll grab one now then. Just wish I lived closer to a menards. I need to have it shipped that's an extra $250
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
Here is a post I did about the shelter furnace last spring. https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/shelter-sf2631-wood-coal-furnace.143153/
Awesome! Thanks @Wisneaky and no problem. I'm up all night anyways and that settles it I'll be ordering mine tomorrow from menards. Only thing that sucks is I gotta wait about a week to arrive. Did you get yours delivered? Just curious if I will need something to unload it, if i do I will just have it shipped to my work where we have a loading dock.
Thanks you guys for all your help and knowledge. I'm really glad I joined this forum before making this purchase.
Thanks you guys for all your help and knowledge. I'm really glad I joined this forum before making this purchase.
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
I picked it up at the closest store. Any questions at all let us know. Another thing menards is really helpful, if you give them a call they should be able to tell you if they have something to unload it with.
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
There isn't an option on the website for shipping to a business. I figured it would be cheaper with a doc. ABF is the shipping company, but I'm sure menards pays them after I pay $255 for shipping lol.
Hey guys I ended up purchasing the shelter furnace model 2631 and I'm glad I did the build quality is 10x better than my fathers USSC stove. Also the blower motor on this thing is huge! I'm going to hook it up this weekend and I want to clean the chimney first I went up and measured the ID of my flue and it's like 10 1/2in x 10 3/4 almost 11in. So I'm just curious on what size brush to buy? I'm assuming you want to get one that is a little bigger so it will scrape off all the creosote but maybe I'm wrong? So do I go with an 11x11 or 10x10. I'm sure they probably don't make a 10 1/2x11.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Just an FYI, you may have problems with that large of a chimney, low draft. I guess you can try it but at 4 times the size of what Shelter calls for, I'm betting it won't work well. May need to think about a 6" liner....the good part is a 6" insulated liner should be a real easy install in that large of a chimney
Yea I was thinking about that. I was going to line it but how do you hook up the liner to the sleeve that goes into the flue threw the chimney wall? I can't reach up that far where the sleeve goes into the flue.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Typical basement chimney arrangement, with a cleanout at the bottom?
Those liner kits have a neat setup for attaching the snout (the part that the stove pipe hooks to) to the body of the tee back inside the chimney. You attach the tee body to the liner and put it in. The tee body has a lip around the hole that the snout fits over and the snout comes with a long SS "hose clamp" attached to it on one side. You feed the clamp around the tee body and then into the screw gear and tighten it up. Don't hafta have access to the inside of the chimney, all done through the breach and snout, pretty slick
Those liner kits have a neat setup for attaching the snout (the part that the stove pipe hooks to) to the body of the tee back inside the chimney. You attach the tee body to the liner and put it in. The tee body has a lip around the hole that the snout fits over and the snout comes with a long SS "hose clamp" attached to it on one side. You feed the clamp around the tee body and then into the screw gear and tighten it up. Don't hafta have access to the inside of the chimney, all done through the breach and snout, pretty slick
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Yup, pretty standard. You'll need to address the clearance to combustibles there though, I assume there is framing right above that insulation
Yea there is. Idk what I'm going to do about that I know you can buy heat heat shields but that might be to close. I was going to put a 45 right out of that sleeve and run the pipe at an angle to the stove. So them liners will work with what I have? How do you take the cap off the bottom of them tees when you go to clean the chimney?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Well, you have options here.
1. Class A chimney pipe has a 2" CTC rating, so you could knock that existing thimble out of there and install a piece of 8" class A long enough to get you in past the problem area, then run the liner snout through that.
2. It looks like that chimney thimble and cement block in that area has been redone recently...I think what I would do would be to go down a block and punch a new thimble through, and it would be easy to install a metal cleanout door below that then. Pretty easy to drill/cut block and mortar in a new pipe or thimble. You can rent a masonry hammer drill and bit pretty cheap if you don't have access to one, that and a 4" grinder with a diamond blade, you can do whatever you want with that wall/chimney
My cleanout door was clear down by the floor so I had the liner supply place make the tee so that I could install a leg, or liner extension onto the bottom of the tee, then the cap that would normally be on the tee is now on the bottom of the extension, right inside my cleanout door
You have lots of options to git-er-dun here!
1. Class A chimney pipe has a 2" CTC rating, so you could knock that existing thimble out of there and install a piece of 8" class A long enough to get you in past the problem area, then run the liner snout through that.
2. It looks like that chimney thimble and cement block in that area has been redone recently...I think what I would do would be to go down a block and punch a new thimble through, and it would be easy to install a metal cleanout door below that then. Pretty easy to drill/cut block and mortar in a new pipe or thimble. You can rent a masonry hammer drill and bit pretty cheap if you don't have access to one, that and a 4" grinder with a diamond blade, you can do whatever you want with that wall/chimney
My cleanout door was clear down by the floor so I had the liner supply place make the tee so that I could install a leg, or liner extension onto the bottom of the tee, then the cap that would normally be on the tee is now on the bottom of the extension, right inside my cleanout door
You have lots of options to git-er-dun here!
Might be easier to put a new chimney up :/ by the time I buy the liner and put a new thimble in it would be the same amount of money to put a class A chimney up threw the wall. Worst part is I was already at the hardware store and purchased everything needed to put up a class A chimney, 15ft of pipe, threw the wall kit all the brackets and I took it back because I was going to try and save $800 by using the existing chimney.
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
I'd say you would still be cheaper lining this one, depending on how tall it is. Not really that much work IMO.
It will draft better than a Class A external chimney too, especially if the liner is insulated. (flue will stay warmer)
I guess it depends if you want to keep this chimney available for another appliance or not...
You would need to pop a hole in the wall for the class A chimney too
Ok guys so I have been burning my wood furnace for about two week now and I love it! Keeps my house nice in warm, to warm actually so I have a few questions. How and where is everyone running the fan limit controls at? From factory shelter had the set at 100off 150on 200off. I ended up turning the 100 down to 85 because I noticed its about 15 degrees off ( it was actually shutting blower off at 115-20 instead of 100). I ran it like this for a while and the blower was on all the time and the temp would hold around 120. I don't know if it was a coincidence but I noticed ALOT of creosote build up in my firebox so much that it was actually dripping. The house was around 76-77 degrees with them settings (im shooting for 70-72). So I talked to my father who owns a wood furnace and he told me to set the fan limit to 130off 180on and 220off. Once I did this I noticed the creosote build up was gone but the house is still way to hot. Even with me only burning two pieces of wood and just keeping hot coals in the firebox I can get it to cool off in house. So this is what im asking because a friend of mine told me to set up my fan limit switch so im constantly blowing warm air all the time his limit switch is set at 80off 100on and whatever the highest his t stat goes for the high off. Im worried if I do this my electric bill will be through the roof and ill get that bad creosote in the fire box from running it so cold. Any help would be greatly appreciate for this first timer. I have a damper on my stove pipe so I can control the fire temp better.
Next question is my furnace is directly in the middle of my house right underneath the living room. My living room is always the hot room and my end rooms and chilly. How can I get more air to my end rooms especially my bedroom because the wife is complaining. I have the registers almost closed in the living room and the kitchen which are the shortest runs off the plenum trying to push has much air to the end rooms as I can. the only other thing I can do is shut them all the way. Right now my blower motor is set to medium I can try low but afraid it wont have enough to make it to the end rooms.
I guess what it all boils down to is do I set this furnace up to run like my forced hot air oil furnace which blows hot air once in a while or do I set it up so it blows warm air all the time like radiant heaters?
Thanks for the help guys, sorry for the long post I just really want to get this thing figured out.
Next question is my furnace is directly in the middle of my house right underneath the living room. My living room is always the hot room and my end rooms and chilly. How can I get more air to my end rooms especially my bedroom because the wife is complaining. I have the registers almost closed in the living room and the kitchen which are the shortest runs off the plenum trying to push has much air to the end rooms as I can. the only other thing I can do is shut them all the way. Right now my blower motor is set to medium I can try low but afraid it wont have enough to make it to the end rooms.
I guess what it all boils down to is do I set this furnace up to run like my forced hot air oil furnace which blows hot air once in a while or do I set it up so it blows warm air all the time like radiant heaters?
Thanks for the help guys, sorry for the long post I just really want to get this thing figured out.
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