Whistle In Liner

[bald4]

We just had a wood insert installed in our house. It is a Yotul 350. The liner is a 6" and is installed in a one story house and goes all the way to the top. So, about 25 feet? We have a spanish style cap on it, or a Cobra wind directional cap. When the wind blows one way and one way only, a screaming whistle is sent down the liner. It stops if we open the door on the fireplace. My husband climbed on the roof and can't hear a darn thing at the top. Here on the Oregon coast, it blows all the time and the noise is driving me nuts. We called the people who installed it, and they put a collar on the fireplace to the liner. Other then that, they say to replace the cap with a different one and sacriface the draw we have now. Any ideas? There is not a back off plate installed, but since it stops when we open the door I figure it is in the liner. I have heard of a "Coke Bottle" effect where the wind blows down and up and as it passes the whistle starts.

Noisy winters!!

 

[KarlP]

I was getting a whistling once in a while when I had a strong draft. A little bit of room air was being sucked into the stove pipe where it enters the stove. I wrapped fiberglass gasket rope around this joint and the noise went away.

 

[DAKSY]

Talk to your dealer & have them call Jotul.
There is a small hole somewhere on that insert which is known as the EPA hole.
I have encountered this "harmonic" whistling a couple of times, & so far only on Regency
or Hampton inserts, but I wouldn't rule it out on the Jotuls.
Good luck, & let us know how you make out...

 

[DAKSY]

Doh! I should add that we've had good luck using hi-temp aluminum
tape to cover the EPA hole & eliminate the harmonic...

 

[bald4]

We tried the fiberglass around the joint and that did not help. But we will call our dealer and see about the EPA hole - here is to hoping!

 

[bald4]

So, we finally got it figured out. The fireplace guy came out. I had found that if I plugged the seconday air, it stopped and if I pluged the back row of holes it stopped. The secondary air intake is about 1" by 2" and our chimney is short. So, we are thinking when the draw is strong, the secondary air intake is too big casuing the air to whistle through. So we plugged some of those back holes with sheet metel and problem solved. Now, most of the air is forced through the front holes. Wahoo, no more whistle. Comes do to design of stove does not match length of chimney.

 

[Wet1]

How is this effecting your secondary burn???

 

[edthedawg]

Um. +1 i guess. tinkering w/ the dainty EPA-conforming bits of a brand new stove seems like a poor solution. Esp if the main symptom only presented itself under certain atmospheric conditions. I kinda figured you'd swap out the cap before blocking 2ndary feed air. A single story house shouldn't have this kind of issue.

And while we're at it...

There is not a back off plate installed...

Another "Um" again. Assuming you mean "block off plate" here? And why is one not installed?

You should get great amounts of heating (rated at 40k btu) and 6-7 hr burn times from this stove - are you feeling it is doing that for you? Blockoff plates - even a softblock using kaowool (or equiv. mat'l) around the liner - are generally necessary to get good performance from an insert like this.

Not trying to come across too critical - just a couple things not really adding up here...