Whitfield Auger issue

[stmar]

Whitfield Profile 15+ years service, auger quit working so I took off the motor and put power, 120 volts, to it and it worked. I disconnected the pressure switch and got a little over 4 volts from those connections/wires, jumped the wires and still not working. Should the wires to the pressure switch yield 120 volts or is the 4 volts a control circuit and correct? Any ideas on what could be the issue since the motor works on the test bench?

 

[heat seeker]

Do you have a hopper lid switch, or other safety in line with the pressure switch? If not, a careful check of the wiring and connectors associated with the switch would be a good idea.

 

[stmar]

No lid switch, will check for a safety in line. Should the voltage reading be 120 at the pressure switch or is the 4 volts normal?

 

[heat seeker]

I don't know, but it seems low. My vac switch (ST Croix) has line voltage on it, but my proof of fire has 5 volts DC. If your 4 volts is DC, just maybe that's normal.

 

[MButkus]

There are two items that will keep a Whitfiled auger from running. See if it's getting power (120V to it), if it does, the control panel is working right.
There is a overheat switch which would rarely die as it never goes off. Then there is the vacuum switch. If that breaks or sees pressure (chimney is clogged) that will break the circuit to the auger, stopping the pellets from dropping and letting it shut down as it cools off.

 

[stmar]

I bypassed the pressure switch and still did not work. Tomorrow I will go through it and see if I can figure it out. First I will see if I can get 120 to the auger motor. Have a feeling it is in the control circuit, whatever lets 120 finally get to the motor.

 

[stmar]

If I am looking at the wiring diagram right the wire to the pressure switch is a neutral so will not have 120. Anybody know any fuses or switches between control board and auger motor that could be problematic?

 

[Stovensen]

Anybody know any fuses or switches between control board and auger motor that could be problematic?

If your Profile 30 is a 2. generation stove ( Profile 30 FS-2 or Profile 30 INS-2 ) there should be a door switch in series with the auger motor. After 15+ years of use this switch is most likely worn/dirty/corroded. From the troubleshooting guide in the manual:

Profile 30 Door Switch:

 

[stmar]

Would the blower motor work if the door switch was failing or just the auger?

 

[Stovensen]

Would the blower motor work if the door switch was failing or just the auger?

The consequence of the auger not feeding pellets due to an open door switch is this: The stove will enter shut down mode, eventually cutting power to the blowers and all, so indirectly you could say that a faulty door switch will prevent the blower from working. But not at start up, though.
This profile 30 wiring diagram below has to be of the 1. generation, since the door switch is not shown in series with the power loop to the auger motor. The other safeties are shown, though.
If we take a close look at the 16 pin Molex connector on the diagram, a quick and precise way to measure the overall ohmic continuity in the auger power loop, is to take a reading with an ohmmeter between pin 7 and pin 15 on the unplugged connector ( the testpins in question have two brown wires attached ). With the door closed, all safety switches in the loop should normally be closed, and the ohmmeter reading will show the copper resistance in the auger motor winding ( 18 Ohms +/- 2 Ohms ). An ohmmeter is needed for this. I hope you have one.
And do take care. Remember to unplug stove from the mains before measuring the suggested resistance on the Molex plug!

 

[stmar]

Thanks for all the help, it was the door switch. Somehow the actuator rod slipped and was not depressing the switch enough, just a minor adjustment and back to normal. Went ahead and cleaned the fire eye and recaulked, so letting that set up. Should be good to go for Super Bowl. Thanks again, sure missed our fire for a day, propane is just not the same, lol.

 

[MButkus]

Forgot about the Profile door switch.

 

[stmar]

So many brands, models and variations it is hard to cover all the possible issues. Glad there is so much knowledge on this forum.

 

[Lake Girl]

The consequence of the auger not feeding pellets due to an open door switch is this:

Good catch Stovensen! Glad to see you back ... it's been a while since we've seen you.

I've had the same issue with the hopper lid switch on my stove. Arm is out just enough to shut it down a careful bend using two needlenose pliers (one to hold; other to bend) and back in business.

 

[Stovensen]

Glad to see you back ... it's been a while since we've seen you.

I've had the same issue with the hopper lid switch on my stove. Arm is out just enough to shut it down a careful bend using two needlenose pliers (one to hold; other to bend) and back in business.

Thanks, Lake Girl. Well, my physiotherapist told me to do some more exercise and not sit so much in front of the computer, so I followed her advice, and it certainly has had a positive effect on my old stiff joints. I may even have lost some weight
These days we have a cold spell with snow and wind, so exercise has to wait till the weather gets milder, so here I am
The good old Whit is faithfully keeping the house warm and cozy

How's winter over there?

Stay warm and safe.