Whitfield Cascade Upper Auger Bushing

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mrmojo182

Member
Oct 18, 2009
59
East
All,

I'm completely rebuilding a stove my father has had since 1995. He has not done anything to it other than door gaskets. My question is regarding the upper auger bushing. How is that replaced? There looks like a piece of sheet metal that has been caulked in the hopper to act as a pellet deflector over the flat top of the auger housing. I'm assuming I can remove that to access the bushing so I can punch it out. Any ideas or thoughts? And before I get the question as to why do I have to replace this bushing, my answer because I want to!

Thanks for any insight.

Jon
 
Also, I'll post a new thread once I learn how to post pictures of the process. The only thing I'm not replacing is the pressure switch and original auger (which looks fine). Most everything else will be new, and I'm hoping to separate the hopper and firebox and repaint both.
 
Got access to it, the top deflector is just caulked on, remove it and you have access to the top bushing. I"m guessing mine is just pressed in there from age, but I do need a chisel to get it out. I'll post some pictures today of the process.
 
Sounds like you have this under control! Sorry I missed the post as I usually check unanswered and new posts...

To post pics, use the upload a file below. Usually use thumbnail option... Waiting for the pics!
 
So I've some pictures but not a ton of the process. I replaced the following:

  1. New auger motor, lower bearing, new neoprene end plate gasket, new upper bushing
  2. New hi-temp and low temp snap disks
  3. New blower motor and fans with new gaskets
  4. New bolts and nuts for all bolt on items including interior sheilds
  5. New upper fire box baffle
  6. New ceramic board (the old one was the original fiber type one)
  7. New gaskets including the slide damper gasket
Additional work include sanding all metal including the interior plates and clips, and re-painting. The only place I didn't paint was the bottom of the stove and the interior of the ash pan holder. I still need to replace the silicone hose that connects the pressure switch to the exhaust fan box. I ordered a replacement but it was too short. I will probably use something from the automotive store.

The only issues I had were breaking off some of the self drilling bolts that has been in there for 20 years. I used a small pneumatic right angle drill and was able to drill them out pretty easily

Also I added the little rubber bumper for the auger motor. Pretty sure my dad's never had one. The stove is running so quiet now it sounds awesome.

This was so easy to work on its been great. I'm so happy to have done this. I do have to drill out and replace the hopper cover hold open arm rivet on the pivot point. It's loose and the cover can fall down some times.

Outside of that we will see how the stove works in my installation. I have an L shaped ranch, and the stove is on one side of the L. The wood stove always did so well here. But the pellet may be challenging.

Jon
 

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Nice job! I know Snowy Rivers has kept her Whitfields going for a long time and since she has the expertise, set up a new control system to better suit her needs since she burns nut shells rather than pellets. Time will tell on the heating capacity for your home ...

Have you met clearances on your hearth? Looks a little shy on the sides due to the configuration. Do you have a block off plate in the fireplace?
 
Nice job! I know Snowy Rivers has kept her Whitfields going for a long time and since she has the expertise, set up a new control system to better suit her needs since she burns nut shells rather than pellets. Time will tell on the heating capacity for your home ...

Have you met clearances on your hearth? Looks a little shy on the sides due to the configuration. Do you have a block off plate in the fireplace?

The picture is deceiving, well over 2 ft to combustibles on the side and about 3 ft up to mantle. And I have the 6in to the front and sides. The block off plate is installed, but has the hole for the old six inch stove pipe, I'm filling that in tomorrow.
 
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