Salutations,
I've been pouring through a lot of your forum as of late trying to get my stove back working normally.
My Whitfield Profile 30 stove recently began having troubles, it is older so I’m not entirely surprised. My wife said it wasn't working recently and when I started looking at the stove the convection blower fan wasn’t spinning and I found it hard to rotate. Took that apart and cleaned it up, if I power direct 120v it runs fine. Still watching it now though it doesn't spin with the voltage provided.
Seems like the board is not putting out enough power, the auger will fill the bucket and the igniter will glow but it doesn’t start smoking quickly and watching the fans spin they are not moving fast. The Comb fan is getting 78V, the convection fan 90v and when powered the auger is only 106v. The convection fan is barely turning at this point. I pulled and checked the igniter and it appears to get 120v when disconnected, also it ohmed comparable to a new one. It seems though like the igniter is now too far from the pellet box to get them heated quickly, I have a new igniter (I was at work when my wife first told me the stove wasn't working and I suspected the igniter, had a new one on the doorstep immediately). This seems to be a secondary problem now though, when I hit start she still glows but doesn't get the pellets hot enough (I wasn't able to measure the voltage when it was live as the connectors are insulated but I jumped the power completely to 120V and still it glows but doesn't get pellets hot enough). Do the igniters wear down in physical dimension over time? It doesn't look adjustable and yet the resistance still looks good. .
I bought the stove used and had seen the stove cycle power power during start up at times, I read about issues with the C10 470uf cap and measured mine at less than half so I replaced it and have not seen that particular issue of the control panel cycling during startup.
I'm at the point to start changing other board components as I can but with RS now out of business I cannot easily pick the parts up in town. C1 C2 C4 look good, C3 is good but C13 C12 C11 C5 I cannot get a measurement with my Fluke. Of those they are all small ceramic capacitors (0.1 & 0.01uf) except for C13 which is a 25V 22uf.
Stove exhaust was cleaned, I don't think that is an issue. I feel as though I've circled back over the issues now and might be frustrating myself, circuits class was a few years ago now but I'm too cheap to want to send it to be replaced just yet. As the stove was used a new board is more than what I paid for the entire stove.
I've been pouring through a lot of your forum as of late trying to get my stove back working normally.
My Whitfield Profile 30 stove recently began having troubles, it is older so I’m not entirely surprised. My wife said it wasn't working recently and when I started looking at the stove the convection blower fan wasn’t spinning and I found it hard to rotate. Took that apart and cleaned it up, if I power direct 120v it runs fine. Still watching it now though it doesn't spin with the voltage provided.
Seems like the board is not putting out enough power, the auger will fill the bucket and the igniter will glow but it doesn’t start smoking quickly and watching the fans spin they are not moving fast. The Comb fan is getting 78V, the convection fan 90v and when powered the auger is only 106v. The convection fan is barely turning at this point. I pulled and checked the igniter and it appears to get 120v when disconnected, also it ohmed comparable to a new one. It seems though like the igniter is now too far from the pellet box to get them heated quickly, I have a new igniter (I was at work when my wife first told me the stove wasn't working and I suspected the igniter, had a new one on the doorstep immediately). This seems to be a secondary problem now though, when I hit start she still glows but doesn't get the pellets hot enough (I wasn't able to measure the voltage when it was live as the connectors are insulated but I jumped the power completely to 120V and still it glows but doesn't get pellets hot enough). Do the igniters wear down in physical dimension over time? It doesn't look adjustable and yet the resistance still looks good. .
I bought the stove used and had seen the stove cycle power power during start up at times, I read about issues with the C10 470uf cap and measured mine at less than half so I replaced it and have not seen that particular issue of the control panel cycling during startup.
I'm at the point to start changing other board components as I can but with RS now out of business I cannot easily pick the parts up in town. C1 C2 C4 look good, C3 is good but C13 C12 C11 C5 I cannot get a measurement with my Fluke. Of those they are all small ceramic capacitors (0.1 & 0.01uf) except for C13 which is a 25V 22uf.
Stove exhaust was cleaned, I don't think that is an issue. I feel as though I've circled back over the issues now and might be frustrating myself, circuits class was a few years ago now but I'm too cheap to want to send it to be replaced just yet. As the stove was used a new board is more than what I paid for the entire stove.
