I'm using an 8hp log splitter, I split for about 2 hours and it worked great, then It started to sputter a bit so I figured it was running out of gas. I grabed the gas can and filled the tank , but the engine stopped just as I was filling it up. When I went to restart it, I used no choke cuz the engine was warm,.....it would not start on the first pull, and the pull rope was very slow to wind back up. I tried about 20 times more each time waiting 2 minutes for the pull cord to wind back up. it sputtered a few times but I could not get the dang thing started. I really hope I didn't break it cuz I borrowed it from a friend. Any Ideas what I'm doing wrong?
Who can fix it? 8hp log splitter stopped running cant restart it
- Thread starter Mr.Burns
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Mr.Burns said:
I think initially, I'd be willing to assume that the slow retracting and the engine problem isn't related, if you're able to turn the engine, and it's not yanking the rope out of your hands, you should be OK on that front. Sometimes jiggling the rope a bit against the spring will speed the retraction up though. 2 minutes is a long time though, so maybe the spring is shot, or the whole mechanism is binding somewhere. Still, if things are moving freely, I wouldn't be looking at this as a the cause of the engine not running.
These small engines tend to be pretty straightforward. They need 3 things to run: fuel, spark, and air, so the first step is making sure all three are present. Is the carb getting gas? Is the air filter entirely plugged up? Is there a good strong spark on the plug?
Many small engines have a breather hole in the gas cap. I'd start by making sure this isn't plugged and causing the engine to suck on a brick wall to get fuel. try loosening the cap a bit.
-Hal
Also, make sure the gas that was in it wasn't bad. If the gas was bad you'll have to clean the carb.
When my log splitter does this (about 2 times a year), it is because of water in the fuel. Take the 4 min. to drop the bowl off of the carb and clean it out. Betcha she fires right back up. I also agree that the pull start issue is probably a whole seperate issue from the engine not running. As said above, these things are pretty straight forward. Not alot of "high tech" involved.
thanks Hal... tugging the pull cord a bit is exactly what I had to do to get it to recoil, I just had no idea why it was doing that. It sounds like the problem is within one of your other suggestions. I will try them tonight when I get home from work. Thanks again. Its great I can rely on this forum so much info. its AMAZING THE AMOUNT OF INFO THATS IN HERE
Mr.Burns said:
I find when I run a vehicle completely out of gas so that I've drained the float bowls, I need to choke it to start it back up. Have you tried that yet?
Jiggle the rope and choke it, like the others have said, should get you back to splitting.
A tip for the future - attempting to fill a running engine with gasoline is never a good idea. One small spark or backfire from the already sputtering engine and you could suddenly have a very large fireball on your hands. Even if you don't spill a drop, the vapors in the 'empty' tank are displaced when you fill it up with liquid gas and they have to go somewhere.
Corey
A tip for the future - attempting to fill a running engine with gasoline is never a good idea. One small spark or backfire from the already sputtering engine and you could suddenly have a very large fireball on your hands. Even if you don't spill a drop, the vapors in the 'empty' tank are displaced when you fill it up with liquid gas and they have to go somewhere.
Corey
Mr. Burns,
Most small engines have an inline fuel filter in them just before the fuel bowl. You may have to replace it since it can get filled with crud that has been sucked off the bottom of the fuel tank during refueling.
Most small engines have an inline fuel filter in them just before the fuel bowl. You may have to replace it since it can get filled with crud that has been sucked off the bottom of the fuel tank during refueling.
Good point Corey....
Now I don't know how true this next one is: I do remember an "old timer" who ran a small engine shop saying never to fill it while running for different reasons. Said that the fumes getting sucked into the engine starved the mixture and smoked the rings. Don't know if I'd believe it either...but when it comes to "old timers" I listen attentively. Even if they sound crazy..."they often can teach you a thing or two.."
Good luck with your splitter...Let us know how you make out....
You could try some starting fluid ( I know, not a good idea on a small engine ) just spray a SMALL amount on the air filter ( not into the carb ) and see if you can at least get it to pop.
problem solved. came home and put a little oil on the spring so the pull cord stops getting stuck, then pulled 2x with choke 1x no choke and presto!. Someone told me today sometimes those smaller engines can get too hot and just shut down for no real reason, is that true? I don't understand why the damn thing wouldn't start back up yesterday, cuz I didn't do anything different to start it back up today, except mess with the pull cord. anyway YIPPEE!....... now I can continue to work my as- off again splitting wood......oh wait a minute
They don't even have to be running to be a problem when you hot fuel'em. Years ago I shut down my trusty ProMac-610 in the woods and fueled it. Pulled the rope, it fired and so did all of the vapors. Set the saw and my shirt on fire instantly. Imagine every movie of somebody running engulfed in flames you have ever seen. I dropped and rolled finally and put out the shirt but got the priviledge of clearing the dry leaves away from around that saw and peeking around a tree as it melted into a puddle.
Gas went first, oil lit off second and the aluminum went last. White hot.
Gas went first, oil lit off second and the aluminum went last. White hot.
To quote Brother Bart:
Close call you were lucky...
Did you "have to change your shorts" once you got back to the house?
Close call you were lucky...
Did you "have to change your shorts" once you got back to the house?
I agree with all the other posters, it is a BAD idea to try refueling a running engine on ANYTHING... Especially a small power engine where the gas tank is mounted on the engine only a short distance from the hot exhaust and carbs.
I'd agree it could be a thermal shutdown - I'd consider pulling the shrouds off and cleaning the cooling fins, or at least giving it a good working over with an air compressor hose. Look for crud on the screen by the recoil. Typically small power engines have a bunch of fins on the flywheel that act as a centrifugal blower for forced air cooling - air comes into the center of the flywheel at the screen over the recoil, and then gets blown out through the shrouds to cool the engine. If the shrouds are damaged or full of dirt, you can use the airflow and overheat the engine. The mfgr also makes a guess about the temp range you are likely to be using the engine at, and designs the shrouds accordingly, so an engine intended for a snowblower may run hot if used in the summer... I've also heard that Briggs engines tend to be better "summer" engines, and Tecumseh engines are better for cold weather, but I don't know how true this is.
At any rate, I've often found that if a small engine doesn't want to restart after going through a tank of gas, it will often do better if one lets it cool down for a while.
Another point on small engines that is a good reason to shut down when refueling is that they tend to use a moderate amount of oil, so it is very important to check the oil at EVERY fillup. Indeed my first thought on hearing the OP describing symptoms was that he might have run the engine out of oil. The single bangers are usually "splash lubed" which means they need to have the right amount of oil in them, but often will run a LONG time with little oil - but tend to overheat.
Gooserider
I'd agree it could be a thermal shutdown - I'd consider pulling the shrouds off and cleaning the cooling fins, or at least giving it a good working over with an air compressor hose. Look for crud on the screen by the recoil. Typically small power engines have a bunch of fins on the flywheel that act as a centrifugal blower for forced air cooling - air comes into the center of the flywheel at the screen over the recoil, and then gets blown out through the shrouds to cool the engine. If the shrouds are damaged or full of dirt, you can use the airflow and overheat the engine. The mfgr also makes a guess about the temp range you are likely to be using the engine at, and designs the shrouds accordingly, so an engine intended for a snowblower may run hot if used in the summer... I've also heard that Briggs engines tend to be better "summer" engines, and Tecumseh engines are better for cold weather, but I don't know how true this is.
At any rate, I've often found that if a small engine doesn't want to restart after going through a tank of gas, it will often do better if one lets it cool down for a while.
Another point on small engines that is a good reason to shut down when refueling is that they tend to use a moderate amount of oil, so it is very important to check the oil at EVERY fillup. Indeed my first thought on hearing the OP describing symptoms was that he might have run the engine out of oil. The single bangers are usually "splash lubed" which means they need to have the right amount of oil in them, but often will run a LONG time with little oil - but tend to overheat.
Gooserider
I didn't realize aluminum burned; magnesium, yeah.
I wonder how good those low oil shutoffs are? It works on oil level, right, not pressure since most little engines don't have pumps.
I wonder how good those low oil shutoffs are? It works on oil level, right, not pressure since most little engines don't have pumps.
velvetfoot said:
AFAIK, they work on level not pressure since a splash lube engine doesn't have any pressure. Never had any experience with them, but I would expect that how well they would work might depend on the application, and how level the engine itself was. Applications where the engine was moving (ie a snowblower or lawnmower, etc) might have problems due to the engine tilting, and / or the oil sloshing around due to the movement. A stationary application, especially one where the engine is probably going to be in a very level position (like a generator) would probably work pretty well. A splitter might be somewhere in the middle since it might or might not have the engine very level when running, and there might be more shaking than with a generator.
Gooserider
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