Whole new chimney liner install

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farmwithjunk

Member
Sep 19, 2022
140
PA
Currently have an older wood furnace that I planned on swapping with a newer wood stove. Current liner is 6x9 rectangular single wall corrugated stainless. Prior owner mentioned he replaced it not that long ago (which could be 10-15, who knows). Visually things looked good aside from heavy creosote buildup which I planned to remove.

After talking to the one Stove shop and sending them pictures they said to yank out the pipe because if its old it probably has old and was cheap to begin with. He said we can replace it with double wall 6". I dont disagree that this would be better than what I have and give me some peace of mind knowing its done right.

I've already started pulling it apart and have it down to just the T and coil pipe. The downside is that approximately halfway up I can see the entire cavity is full of vermiculite. The chimney does not have a clay liner, its just the outside brick then at some point at the bottom it has some brick/block narrowing it down to 6x12 approximately.

I'm trying to do due diligence before buying anything from someone who is ready to take my money.

Would I just rip out the pipe/vermiculite and replace it with doublewall, T and stub through the chimney and block wall? The inlet is 4' off the floor in the basement so no combustibles for 4' around. Would it still be a good idea to surround the T with vermiculite so its set solid and cannot move?

Top of the chimney is 49x16" outside with a 12x12 hole in the middle. Its framed in with brick and has an aluminum cover. I plan to concrete top since stainless is so expensive vs a $7 bag.

The owner has been in biz 30 years and dont think hes in it just for the money but I want to be informed that his suggestion is the correct one. He isn't even talking stoves/prices until I get it all ripped apart.

If I really wanted to be cheap I think the current liner would have been fine after a cleaning or couldn't I have dropped a 6" down inside of it? The cost of new doublewall would be worth knowing it was done right with new parts.
 
Currently have an older wood furnace that I planned on swapping with a newer wood stove. Current liner is 6x9 rectangular single wall corrugated stainless. Prior owner mentioned he replaced it not that long ago (which could be 10-15, who knows). Visually things looked good aside from heavy creosote buildup which I planned to remove.

After talking to the one Stove shop and sending them pictures they said to yank out the pipe because if its old it probably has old and was cheap to begin with. He said we can replace it with double wall 6". I dont disagree that this would be better than what I have and give me some peace of mind knowing its done right.

I've already started pulling it apart and have it down to just the T and coil pipe. The downside is that approximately halfway up I can see the entire cavity is full of vermiculite. The chimney does not have a clay liner, its just the outside brick then at some point at the bottom it has some brick/block narrowing it down to 6x12 approximately.

I'm trying to do due diligence before buying anything from someone who is ready to take my money.

Would I just rip out the pipe/vermiculite and replace it with doublewall, T and stub through the chimney and block wall? The inlet is 4' off the floor in the basement so no combustibles for 4' around. Would it still be a good idea to surround the T with vermiculite so its set solid and cannot move?

Top of the chimney is 49x16" outside with a 12x12 hole in the middle. Its framed in with brick and has an aluminum cover. I plan to concrete top since stainless is so expensive vs a $7 bag.

The owner has been in biz 30 years and dont think hes in it just for the money but I want to be informed that his suggestion is the correct one. He isn't even talking stoves/prices until I get it all ripped apart.

If I really wanted to be cheap I think the current liner would have been fine after a cleaning or couldn't I have dropped a 6" down inside of it? The cost of new doublewall would be worth knowing it was done right with new parts.
What does he mean by double wall? If he is talking about the 2ply smooth wall crap don't do it. What stove is going in?
 
What does he mean by double wall? If he is talking about the 2ply smooth wall crap don't do it. What stove is going in?
Insulated double wall rated for 0 clearance.

Prior deciding to re-do the chimney I had decided on a Regency F5200 for my 8" flue. I like the Green Mountain 80 but its not available this year. Now, going to 6" I could do the F3500 or another brand.

He sells Lopi, Osburn but the Lopi are not tax rebate eligible.
 
Insulated double wall rated for 0 clearance.

Prior deciding to re-do the chimney I had decided on a Regency F5200 for my 8" flue. I like the Green Mountain 80 but its not available this year. Now, going to 6" I could do the F3500 or another brand.

He sells Lopi, Osburn but the Lopi are not tax rebate eligible.
Well pre insulated can be made with several different inner liners. And the quality varies allot
 
What would your suggestion be? From floor to cap is probably 20'.
I would recommend either a midweight or heavy wall liner they will last much longer than a regular light wall. Pre insulated is good but you can also just insulate yourself as well
 
Are you talking about the non smooth flex liners?
Mid weight and heavywall are smooth flex liners. They just are made differently than the 2 ply smooth wall crap
 
I’m trying to under the dimensions. You have one section where the narrow’s to 6x12”. And you are wanting to get what size of insulated liner through that section?
 
I’m trying to under the dimensions. You have one section where the narrow’s to 6x12”. And you are wanting to get what size of insulated liner through that section?
Top is 12x12 opening and other tight spot would be above the T but I can't tell until I pull the old liner out. I should have enough room for 8", so 6" insulated.
 
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