Will We Pass WETT?

[threehappypenguins]

We're in a bit of a dilemma... maybe. From the peak of our roof to the chimney pipe we installed is 8 feet. I know that the top of the chimney pipe must be 2 ft higher than the roof that is within 10 ft. But any chimney pipe higher than 5 ft from the roof deck must have a roof brace installed to brace the chimney.

Temporarily, we just stuck a 1' chimney length on for now (so all my measurements do not include this 1' piece). When everything is open tomorrow (we're in Nova Scotia where everything is closed on Remembrance Day), we are probably going to buy an 18" SuperVent chimney pipe (that is the line I'm using; SuperVent), and replace the 1' piece with the 18" one. We calculated that with an 18" chimney pipe, it will be 1' 10 1/2" above the peak of the roof, and 4' 8" above the roof deck. So no roof brace needed, but we are 1 1/2" short of being 2' over the peak (because the peak is within 10').

But if we purchase a 24" inch chimney piece (instead of 18"), we will be 5' 2" over the roof deck (needing a roof brace), and 2' 4 1/2" over the peak of the roof (which will exceed the minimum requirement, which is obviously fine). So my question is, if we went with the 18" chimney pipe to avoid putting on a roof brace, is it likely that a WETT inspector would pass it? I'm not sure just how strict they are with this. I have a picture of what it looks like so far with the 1' pipe on top.

Just for clarification, we measured the distance from the peak of the roof to the bottom of the vinyl siding, and the top of the chimney pipe (without that 1' piece and also excluding the rain cap) to the bottom of the siding, then found the difference between the two, which was approximately 4 1/2". So we just add on 18" or 24" to figure out how much higher the chimney opening will be from the peak of the roof.

 

[AlbergSteve]

I would use the 24'' piece. From the last brace, it looks like your over 5' anyway, so you need a brace. Better to have a little more clearance and draft than be too close to the roof .

 

[maple1]

Likely the only way to get your question answered is to get it inspected. Don't think we can predict what any given inspector will do or say on any particular day - sometimes there's a variation between them in pickyness and sometimes even variation in what one might say from one day to the next. I would likely get it to where it meets required height & clearance requirements, and if that means it needs braced, just add a couple of braces. Which shouldn't be too too difficult, I don't think?

 

[threehappypenguins]

Likely the only way to get your question answered is to get it inspected. Don't think we can predict what any given inspector will do or say on any particular day - sometimes there's a variation between them in pickyness and sometimes even variation in what one might say from one day to the next. I would likely get it to where it meets required height & clearance requirements, and if that means it needs braced, just add a couple of braces. Which shouldn't be too too difficult, I don't think?

We were reading the directions for the "roof guys," and they said that we can't just screw into the sheathing, but have to somehow find the rafters (in our case, trusses), and screw into them. Plus there is the issue of somehow peeling back shingles without breaking them, and the membrane and stuff, and making sure it's done in a way that won't cause leaks. Not the mention the additional $70. But then again, I don't want to have to pay for an inspector twice (once that will fail, possible; then another after we do whatever he says to do).

I guess I was just posting here because I really wasn't sure how strict they are. We have a neighbour with an oil furnace behind us, and their chimney pipe definitely isn't 2 ft higher from parts of the roof within 10 ft. So who knows.

 

[threehappypenguins]

I would use the 24'' piece. From the last brace, it looks like your over 5' anyway, so you need a brace. Better to have a little more clearance and draft than be too close to the roof .

We're definitely not over 5' with the 1' or 18" addition. We measured.

 

[threehappypenguins]

Seems that the universal response from contacting WETT inspectors is that we'll need that 24" addition (not 18"), and then the roof brace. But I'm conflicted about the roof brace installation. The Selkirk instructions don't really specify exactly how it should be attached to a shingled roof; just that it should be screwed into the rafters, and caulking used to seal things up. When I looked up videos, everybody just used caulking and slapped it ON TOP of the shingles. Should it somehow be slid partially under the shingles? Therefore the shingles peeled back to some extent? I just know that, over time, caulking deteriorates. Well, so do shingles, but I'm pretty sure caulking deteriorates faster.

 

[AlbergSteve]

We're definitely not over 5' with the 1' or 18" addition. We measured.

Looks like the top bracket/brace is about 18'' below the soffit. Pretty sure you need a brace/bracket every 5 feet - if those are 3' sections, then you have over 6' of pipe above the last bracket.

 

[threehappypenguins]

Looks like the top bracket/brace is about 18'' below the soffit. Pretty sure you need a brace/bracket every 5 feet - if those are 3' sections, then you have over 6' of pipe above the last bracket.

Oh, I see what you're saying. In the documentation, we could not find anything that said exactly how far below the soffit the bracket should go. Just that it should go "near" it. Because the documentation said that the first bracket needs to be about halfway up the first chimney length, and then every 8' after that, that is why we put the bracket where it is.

The bracket is supposed to be every 8' on the side of a house up a wall. However, the roof brace has to do with how far above the roof deck the chimney is (roof brace needed 5' above roof deck; measured from the higher end of the slope).

 

[begreen]

Seems that the universal response from contacting WETT inspectors is that we'll need that 24" addition (not 18"), and then the roof brace. But I'm conflicted about the roof brace installation. The Selkirk instructions don't really specify exactly how it should be attached to a shingled roof; just that it should be screwed into the rafters, and caulking used to seal things up. When I looked up videos, everybody just used caulking and slapped it ON TOP of the shingles. Should it somehow be slid partially under the shingles? Therefore the shingles peeled back to some extent? I just know that, over time, caulking deteriorates. Well, so do shingles, but I'm pretty sure caulking deteriorates faster.

I'm in agreement with the inspectors. You will benefit from some additional chimney. Maybe consider adding a 3' section instead. The roof braced sits on top of the shingles. Mark the hole locations for the lags bolts, then predrill. It gets lagged to the roof rafters with a dab of silicone or roof tar on the hole before the brace is placed and then anchored with 1/4" x 2" lag bolts.

 

[threehappypenguins]

I'm in agreement with the inspectors. You will benefit from some additional chimney. Maybe consider adding a 3' section instead. The roof braced sits on top of the shingles. Mark the hole locations for the lags bolts, then predrill. It gets lagged to the roof rafters with a dab of silicone or roof tar on the hole before the brace is placed and then anchored with 1/4" x 2" lag bolts.

Any reason to add a 3' section instead of 2'? We will be 28 1/2" (2' 4 1/2") above the roof peak with a 2' section.

 

[begreen]

Better draft in milder weather.

 

[AlbergSteve]

I disagree with most on here regarding muounting the braces. I don't want any holes in my shingles. Lets say you just reroofed your house for $15k and 35 year shingles and you want to rely on a dab of silicone to keep the water out for the next 35 years?
You can mount the bracket on a rafter but tuck the angle bracket under the bottom edge of the shingle, or add backing under the sheathing and mount at the edge of a shingle joint.

 

[threehappypenguins]

I disagree with most on here regarding muounting the braces. I don't want any holes in my shingles. Lets say you just reroofed your house for $15k and 35 year shingles and you want to rely on a dab of silicone to keep the water out for the next 35 years?
You can mount the bracket on a rafter but tuck the angle bracket under the bottom edge of the shingle, or add backing under the sheathing and mount at the edge of a shingle joint.
View attachment 251212

I totally agree. But how would you lift the shingle enough to get a lag bolt through without cracking/breaking the shingle? Ours are from 2012, but are not in the greatest shape because our house was previously shaded with trees and we had a ton of moss that covered the roof (we have since removed the trees and moss). We bought in 2016.

 

[begreen]

I disagree with most on here regarding muounting the braces. I don't want any holes in my shingles. Lets say you just reroofed your house for $15k and 35 year shingles and you want to rely on a dab of silicone to keep the water out for the next 35 years?
You can mount the bracket on a rafter but tuck the angle bracket under the bottom edge of the shingle, or add backing under the sheathing and mount at the edge of a shingle joint.
View attachment 251212

Looks neat, but it is not necessary. The brace feet on our roof were placed 13 yrs ago. 50 yr shingles. They are fine. No issues at all and yes, the silicone is covered by the foot of the brace, sees no sunlight and I expect it will be sealing until the roof is replaced. The tar of the shingles itself acts as a sealant around the small hole. The silicone or roofing tar is just extra insurance.

 

[AlbergSteve]

I totally agree. But how would you lift the shingle enough to get a lag bolt through without cracking/breaking the shingle? Ours are from 2012, but are not in the greatest shape because our house was previously shaded with trees and we had a ton of moss that covered the roof (we have since removed the trees and moss). We bought in 2016.

A heat gun or hair dryer could work, use gentle heat and a putty knife.

 

[maple1]

I disagree with most on here regarding muounting the braces. I don't want any holes in my shingles. Lets say you just reroofed your house for $15k and 35 year shingles and you want to rely on a dab of silicone to keep the water out for the next 35 years?
You can mount the bracket on a rafter but tuck the angle bracket under the bottom edge of the shingle, or add backing under the sheathing and mount at the edge of a shingle joint.
View attachment 251212

Somewhere under there, there is at least one shingle with at least one hole in it.

 

[threehappypenguins]

A heat gun or hair dryer could work, use gentle heat and a putty knife.

Genius! If only we would have done this in the heat of the summer. Oh well. Lol

 

[carg3]

If your roof was done in 2012, it likely has something called ice and water shield on the bottom three, or perhaps six feet from the bottom. It's designed to seal around all the nails, and not allow ice to work it's way underneath. You're actually better off lagging your bracket through the top of the shingles in this location, rather than lifting them and trying to lag underneath. Silicone won't last forever, but check it as part of your routine when you clean your chimney and you'll be fine.

 

[begreen]

Agreed. The silicone is just an insurance policy, could be roofing tar as well. Silicone out of sunlight (under the foot of the bracket) will probably outlast the chimney. The exposed silicone on our chimney storm collar still looks good after 13 yrs.