Wood furnace questions

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HatCityIAFF

Burning Hunk
Oct 26, 2011
137
Western CT
Ok gang a few questions for you. Currently, I live in a 1800sqft raised ranch, with a Napoleon 1402 insert in the downstairs, which makes up about 300sqft of that 1800. I'm searching for the quest for better heat. Right now, there is about a ten degree difference between upstairs and downstairs. Usually, the downstairs where the stove is, is 75 degrees, which gives me about 64-65 upstairs, and the bedrooms a little colder. My thermostat is in the upstairs hallway, so around 3am on cold nights, the hot air furnace will kick on. With this set up, Ive burned about 3 cords a yr for the past 3 yrs, and about a tank, tank and a half of oil.

The house was built in '88, well insulated, with electric baseboard heat. In the early 2000's, the previous owner installed a forced hot air furnace in the garage, and ran the ductwork up into the attic, then put vents in every room. I am looking for your input on the correct way to get warm air though out the house. I know the difference between add-ons, and boilers, but i'm thinking a add-on just for price wise. I'd have to put it in the garage (building code permitted??) next to the furnace, so i'd have to run a seperate exterior chimney 25' or so feet, which would already set me back $1500ish. I'm looking into the Tundra line of add ons, which would give me a overall price of $3500 no installed.

I'm basically looking for an add on that my wife can throw wood in, and walk away. She is getting tired of loading the insert at 10pm, and closing the air down in stages, which usually takes 30 or more minutes. And i'm tired of putting in all this work getting and splitting wood, for sub-par heat. We would like it when the thermostat calls for heat upstairs, bingo, heat is flowing. Would the current furnace fan push this through? or would the fan supplied with the unit do that? Also, are there units out there that have this sort "automatic" draft control?? set it and forget it??

If the stove isn't running downstairs, there is only one vent, and the room never gets above 55. So there are thoughts of selling the Napoleon, if i can add a vent and get the temp in the room up, and that could bump my budget by 1000$. So what are your guys thoughts?? Basically how do the lower end add ons work?
 
bump for ya. As I found out, there's not a whole lotta furnace guys here, it seems there are mostly boiler owners on here.
 
Is your attic insulated or do you have those heat ducts up in a cold attic? Do the vents somehow extend from the attic down to the first floor as well?

Do you still have the electric heat installed?
 
(broken link removed)

These people make wood gasification furnaces , and the 200 model looks like an easy install. Its more money than what you would like to spend ,but its the cutting edge in clean burning efficient wood furnace technology .
If you were to direct contact these people they would be happy to advise on your ducting requirements .
 
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Yeah, garage install probably not legal by code and HO ins. Also ducts in the attic probably do not have proper clearances, and, downflow ducts with a wood furnace is a fire hazard too. What about putting the furnace in front of the fireplace where the insert is now, use that chimney? I'd stay away from any of the farm store/big box store add-on wood furnaces except the Tundra, that would fill the bill for ya OK. Like Hobbyheater said, Kuumas are cutting edge, top quality, almost idiot proof, clean burn wood furnaces!
 
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Your house sounds similar to mine. 1800 sqft total, about 1450 upstairs and 350 rec/mud room on a slab. Mine is a tri level, but some think it is a raised ranch. My stove was in the rec room. I added a small blower and duct to blow hot air into the master bath on the far end of the house. That helped even the temps out. I replaced that stove with an Englander 28-3500. It throws off a lot more heat, keeps us >70 deg even when it is 0 outside. The oil only runs to keep the DHW tankless coil hot. I keep the oil (baseboard) set for auto back up anytime we are in the single digits. With my bedrooms above the garage and a 4' overhang above the garage doors, I do not want to freeze those pipes.

My Englander is only 1.5 season old, first fire was late Dec '12. I'm installing a wood boiler so the Englander is of no use to me now. I'm in SE CT, near the casinos.

Plenty of pics & info here: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-28-3500-furnace-install-mods.102100/



My parents in south central PA heat exclusively with a QuadraFire 5100 insert. 2700 sqft brick ranch built in '67. 15 x 45 of the basement is unfinished. The insert is mounted in a huge brick hearth in the other (finished) side of the basement. The upstairs is 30 x 45. That thing BELTS out the heat + with the large brick hearth it is mounted in, it radiates for quite some time after the fire has died down.

Your insert looks pretty nice, hard to believe you load it at 10 pm and it is running out of heat by 3 am. What kind of wood are you burning? Well seasoned? Large or small splits? Lots of variables there. If you are struggling to get seasoned wood, and splitting small, that can make it burn hot but fast (more surface area) as opposed to larger splits for a long burn.

Have you thought about installing a few vents to help get the heat from the downstairs (room with the insert) up to the second floor? It seems like it would be a waste to remove a nice insert to replace it with something else. Allmost seems overkill to add another flue and a wood furnace in the garage to connect to the oil forced air system.
 
I'm right around the corner from you (as well as being a career FF as well) and just finished installing a Max Caddy wood furnace with oil backup in my house. The wiring still has to get completed/corrected, I'm a little perplexed right now and probably need a professional HVAC guy to finish it off but the unit is operational. I've only burned in it once but it appears to put out a large amount of heat and is very user friendly. I would have gotten the wood only model but I didn't have an easily accessible unused flu to tap into so I just replaced the previous furnace. The unit has its own blower which pushes the heated air through the house and it has its own automatic damper control. Cost for the unit as wood only is around $5000. They make a smaller size also called the Caddy. Deans Stove and Spa in Southington is our local dealer. Give them a call.
 
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thanks guys for all the input...the attic is insulated, and i havent researched all the local codes, or figured out HO insurance....mustash29, i like your idea of taking out the insert and putting the furnace in its place, but since the basement is finished, and it would be sitting right next to us, would be awkward.

the heat only kicks on in the middle of the night around 5 degrees, and we had alot of those nights this year!!! Wood is a mix of ash,cherry, black locust, and some pine for the shoulder seasons. Im three years ahead this year, so my meter gives me readings of sub 20% mc on a fresh split...usually i get 7-8 splits in the stove for overnight.

my oil furnace is vented with a power venter, so id have to figure out a way to vent the wood appliance if i remove the furnace.

maybe i need to upgrade to a bigger insert, but that will still give me uneven heat. Jason, you still have your 2400?? Id love to check out your new setup, if you ever called we could have a couple keystones!!!
-gk
 
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