Wood splitter - standalone or tractor powered

[spuldup]

Hi All,

First post here.
So my wife and I (late 30s) recently bought 10 acres (about 6 acres wooded, not cut for ~20 years) here in Western PA, large house, like 2500 sqft/cathedral ceilings. Finally our last property until the nursing home.
The home has a Brunco WC 190 beast of a wood furnace, integrated into the ductwork with a heatpump (yuck). I'm running the Brunco for heat, and buying wood this year for the most part, since it's our first year there. There are some standing dead trees which I am taking down here and there. I'm splitting with a maul but it is not fun. I have a new Kioti 25hp compact tractor with 2 rear remotes. What do y'all think about 3ph hydraulic (not PTO) powered vs a standalone splitter with it's own engine? Either would be stored outside most of the time, at least until the Mrs. gets her attached garage 2023/24. Currently the 32'X32' barn is full. This forum seems to think 25-30 ton is appropriate for the species (oak, maple, walnut, hickory, quaking aspen) here. I usually cut to ~18" length in the woods and bring it back a 66" loader bucket at a time. I'd like to get a trailer or just skid the logs back, but the woods is still pretty tight. So for now it will be split basically right next to where stacked. Growing up Dad build a tank of a standalone splitter, which I probably ran 1000s of hours, but I've never used a commercial unit of any kind.

I appreciate considerations in general for the type of machine and any specific models you could recommend.
Thanks!

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

!st if you have a splitter hooked up to the tractor you can't use the tractor to move wood/splits .

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

2nd with a stand alone splitter you could have the tractor bucket either full of rounds or empty and you just pick a round turn and split or split and toss/stack you splits into the bucket ...all at the same height as your splitter table.

 

[Shank]

!st if you have a splitter hooked up to the tractor you can't use the tractor to move wood/splits .

That alone is all I would need to make that decision. Plus I know the argument in the past has been why put hours on your very expensive tractor engine.

 

[spuldup]

While I'm not concerned with engine hours (I know there are 2 camps on this), the utility of having the wood/splits at waist level is attractive. My day basically died of a bad back (complications from surgery), so I do appreciate the whole "minimize bending over" thing.

Local wood dudes around here seem to agree on a stand alone rig, too. Thanks you fellas for weighing in on this. Much appreciated. I've got a few other toys that barely get used so they can go to make room for a full-out splitter.

 

[Mutineer]

My 2 cents- get a standalone, my 30 year old that I got from Northern Tool is rated at 20 tons and handles everything I've ever thrown at it. The one caveat is try to get a splitter with a Honda GX series engine, easy start and they run forever, except when they don't and then parts are reasonable and easy to replace. Burned out the original Briggs & Stratton 5 hp engine on it in about 8-10 years and these sites are littered with warnings about Kohler engine problems. The used GX200 Honda I procured for it has been cranking away ever since.

 

[Shank]

My 2 cents- get a standalone, my 30 year old that I got from Northern Tool is rated at 20 tons and handles everything I've ever thrown at it. The one caveat is try to get a splitter with a Honda GX series engine, easy start and they run forever, except when they don't and then parts are reasonable and easy to replace. Burned out the original Briggs & Stratton 5 hp engine on it in about 8-10 years and these sites are littered with warnings about Kohler engine problems. The used GX200 Honda I procured for it has been cranking away ever since.

Can't beat the Honda's. Always look for them when I am looking for equipment.

 

[Isaac Carlson]

Go electric. I built an electric splitter and love it. It's close to 20 tons with a 4 way slip on wedge and I love it. I used a 3600 rpm 3 hp 220v motor and 11 gpm pump. I could have used a 13 gpm pump, but I had the 11 already. I have a 100 ft cord on it and use it all around the yard. It's quiet, no fumes, no gas, no oil, and it costs pennies to run. I ran it last night and blew right through a pile of oak.

If I was building it again, I would use a 28 gpm pump and a 1725 rpm motor. It would be more of a hum rather than a whine.

It has no problem with knotty or hard wood. I don't miss the gas motor at all. I have a gas splitter, but rarely use it. I used it last month to split some wood away from the house, and it burned about $30 worth of gas in a day, the fumes burned my nose/throat, and I couldn't hear myself think. You don't realise how much air/noise pollution there is until you get away from it and then go back to it. It's crazy.

I have a corded chainsaw that I use on smaller wood just to avoid the noise/smell/vibration of a gas saw. All my saws are ported, and I love running them, but there is somerhing nice about breathing clean air and not needing muffs.

 

[spuldup]

Go electric. I built an electric splitter and love it. It's close to 20 tons with a 4 way slip on wedge and I love it. I used a 3600 rpm 3 hp 220v motor and 11 gpm pump. I could have used a 13 gpm pump, but I had the 11 already. I have a 100 ft cord on it and use it all around the yard. It's quiet, no fumes, no gas, no oil, and it costs pennies to run. I ran it last night and blew right through a pile of oak.

If I was building it again, I would use a 28 gpm pump and a 1725 rpm motor. It would be more of a hum rather than a whine.

It has no problem with knotty or hard wood. I don't miss the gas motor at all. I have a gas splitter, but rarely use it. I used it last month to split some wood away from the house, and it burned about $30 worth of gas in a day, the fumes burned my nose/throat, and I couldn't hear myself think. You don't realise how much air/noise pollution there is until you get away from it and then go back to it. It's crazy.

I have a corded chainsaw that I use on smaller wood just to avoid the noise/smell/vibration of a gas saw. All my saws are ported, and I love running them, but there is somerhing nice about breathing clean air and not needing muffs.

That sounds awesome. Sadly, time is tougher than money right now, so I'm looking for an off-the-shelf solution. Electric off-the-shelf units are tiny, low, and underpowered (restricted to 120V, as you know). Glad to know there another electric nerd burning firewood. Rode my ebike to work today, btw!

 

[brenndatomu]

My 2 cents- get a standalone, my 30 year old that I got from Northern Tool is rated at 20 tons and handles everything I've ever thrown at it

Yup, anything over 20 ton should do fine 99.9% of the time, as long as it has a decent wedge design...and Honda engines are always good...but I'd buy one with a different brand engine if the deal was right...heck, my Champion 23 ton has been 100% fine the last 10 years.
I can see how an electric powered one would be nice if you split close to a power source.
Which speaking of electric splitters, there are a few "big boy" options out there...I know Supersplit offers them both ways...with a very easy swap if you want to switch power sources...I read of someone here that bought one with both an engine and a motor.
(broken link removed to http://www.supersplit.com/home/index.html)
(broken link removed to http://www.supersplit.com/videos_oper/index.html)

 

[spuldup]

Yup, anything over 20 ton should do fine 99.9% of the time, as long as it has a decent wedge design...and Honda engines are always good...but I'd buy one with a different brand engine if the deal was right...heck, my Champion 23 ton has been 100% fine the last 10 years.
I can see how an electric powered one would be nice if you split close to a power source.
Which speaking of electric splitters, there are a few "big boy" options out there...I know Supersplit offers them both ways...with a very easy swap if you want to switch power sources...I read of someone here that bought one with both an engine and a motor.
(broken link removed to http://www.supersplit.com/home/index.html)
(broken link removed to http://www.supersplit.com/videos_oper/index.html)

Yeah, if 20T wont I'm looking at a Landwords 20T right now for only $700. Newer model but reviews look promising: Amazon product ASIN B099BCVFP9$700 AMZ, $1000 TSC
If that won't split a log, the log can go to the fire ring.

The log catcher isn't really one but that can be easily rectified. The engine I recognize as a Lifan 7MHP, a Honda clone. I have the 6.5 HFT Predator version on a Horse tiller and it is really smooth and starts on the first pull after all winter in storage.

 

[brenndatomu]

Yeah, if 20T wont I'm looking at a Landwords 20T right now for only $700. Newer model but reviews look promising: Amazon product ASIN B099BCVFP9$700 AMZ, $1000 TSC
If that won't split a log, the log can go to the fire ring.

The log catcher isn't really one but that can be easily rectified. The engine I recognize as a Lifan 7MHP, a Honda clone. I have the 6.5 HFT Predator version on a Horse tiller and it is really smooth and starts on the first pull after all winter in storage.

That looks like a pretty light duty unit to me...and it only has 20" capacity, so since I cut to 20", that wouldn't work out well for me...

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

That seams small..
Were are you from... are the the usual big box stores or a Tractor supply near by ?

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

Is a shelf/log cradle an option ?

 

[spuldup]

That seams small..
Were are you from... are the the usual big box stores or a Tractor supply near by ?

Yes there are a 2 TCSs within 20 miles or so. The standard orange 25T model seems popular around here. TSC has a Champion 25T on sale now for $1400 online. Having the ability to split horizontally would save the Big Johns from the fire ring, I guess.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

Black Friday sales ?

 

[spuldup]

Black Friday sales ?

I can see myself now on that Friday morning, online, sipping coffee while buying a log splitter before heading up to deer camp.

 

[gzecc]

Stand alone vert/horizontal 25T. Will maintain its value if you take care of it.

 

[vbu]

That landworks splitter you posted looks like a toy to me IMO. It's super small, and it looks like the hydraulic oil tank is really really small. You want a lot of hydraulic oil, or it'll overheat. My northstar holds 9 gallons I believe.
Another thing to consider, if you're still thinking about using your tractor, is that you may want to look at the GPM of your tractors hydraulic oil pump. You may end up with a slow machine if the GPM on that pump is low. I believe my 30 ton Northstar has a 16GPM pump, but don't hold me to it

 

[Isaac Carlson]

Tank capacity is not as important as people think. My tank is 4 gallons and I can put my hand on it after running it for hours. It feels good in the winter. I made my tank from a 20 lb propane cylinder and the fluid spins to remove any air and help cool the incoming fluid. It works great. I could probably have a 2 gallon tank and run just as cool, but the propane tank was just laying there....

 

[vbu]

Tank capacity is not as important as people think. My tank is 4 gallons and I can put my hand on it after running it for hours. It feels good in the winter. I made my tank from a 20 lb propane cylinder and the fluid spins to remove any air and help cool the incoming fluid. It works great. I could probably have a 2 gallon tank and run just as cool, but the propane tank was just laying there....

If I run mine hard/fast, it gets hot, even with 8 gallons of fluid and the engine idling down when the wedge returns. On a hot day I'd guesstimate around 135-140 degrees

 

[Eman85]

I have a splitter that hooks to my tractor and it works good for me. One more small engine to maintain wasn't what I wanted. My tractor is a Ford diesel and the cycle speed is fast enough for me. Engine is far away and exhaust is too another plus for me. Another bonus is no one will ask to borrow it.

 

[Isaac Carlson]

If I run mine hard/fast, it gets hot, even with 8 gallons of fluid and the engine idling down when the wedge returns. On a hot day I'd guesstimate around 135-140 degrees

You probably have some restrictions in the system. 90° fittings are a source of heat. A worn pump will make heat as well. How hot does your pump get? My old pump used to get pretty warm because it was worn. No idea how many hours were on it, but it was used/abused when I got it. My new pump was used as well (because it was almost free), but I went through it and it seemed to be pretty good. If/when I need a new one, it will be brand new, and a bit more flow.

 

[spuldup]

I have a splitter that hooks to my tractor and it works good for me. One more small engine to maintain wasn't what I wanted. My tractor is a Ford diesel and the cycle speed is fast enough for me. Engine is far away and exhaust is too another plus for me. Another bonus is no one will ask to borrow it.

What model Ford are you using? I used to have a 1500. Good old machine!

 

[Eman85]

What model Ford are you using? I used to have a 1500. Good old machine!

I have a 2600 3cyl diesel