Wood Stove Chimney Liner

[Louis]

Im looking to purchase a wood stove chimney liner. Clay lined mason chimney 8"x8" outter dimension of the clay liner and 6.75"x 6.75" interior dimension. From my research i believe rigid liners would be a great option providing me with the capability to add sections ( or take off if need be ) if needing better draft. Would be insulating it with 1/2" liner wrap insulation and the mesh kit that comes with most kits.

My real question is, are the rigid liners a good choice over the flexible smooth wall liners? as well as where does everyone get their liners from?

I would be doing it myself, have full confidence in installing it and have seen online retailers like rockford chimney and woodland direct being reasonably priced for piecing it all together and free shipping.

Would the 6" liner plus the 1/2" insulation fit proper down the flue without much hassle? the chimney itself is quite straight with little to no clay tiles popping out further then what they should.

 

[begreen]

An insulated 6" liner is not going fit. It will be 7+" OD. I like rigid liners, but bholler does a lot of liners and he doesn't care for them. They are slower to install and remove. Just avoid the 2 ply smooth wall liners. They tend to be problems.

 

[Louis]

An insulated 6" liner is not going fit. It will be 7+" OD. I like rigid liners, but bholler does a lot of liners and he doesn't care for them. They are slower to install and remove. Just avoid the 2 ply smooth wall liners. They tend to be problems.

In that case, what would I do? I was expecting the liner to be a tight fit at just over 6.5” but didn’t realize it would be that thick exterior diameter. Wasn’t expecting to have to, and hoping to not have to break the flue tiles for a liner.
And I don’t mind install or uninstall being a slow go, like the idea of being able to add sections if needed. Where as, as far as I’m aware, the flexible only goes to the top of the existing flue.. and I know I need a few extra feet for draft.

 

[Woody Stover]

I don’t mind install or uninstall being a slow go, like the idea of being able to add sections if needed.

We used rigid at my BIL's house, four-4' sections to get down to the smoke chamber, then a couple elbows, pipe and tee to a rear-vent stove.
We used the top-clamp to hold the dangling chimney while we added the next section to the top, wrapped it in pre-fabbed 1/2" insulation sections, then lowered and repeated. I don't remember exactly how we did it..mighta had a couple of vise-grips on the top edge of the just-added section as well, for lowering the dangling chimney once we loosened the top clamp, then lowered and re-clamped. Easier with a couple guys..

 

[Woody Stover]

You have to drill screw holes just the right size for the screws to go in easily, yet not too big, so that they hold well. Stainless screws, which I think came with the liner.

 

[bholler]

In that case, what would I do? I was expecting the liner to be a tight fit at just over 6.5” but didn’t realize it would be that thick exterior diameter. Wasn’t expecting to have to, and hoping to not have to break the flue tiles for a liner.
And I don’t mind install or uninstall being a slow go, like the idea of being able to add sections if needed. Where as, as far as I’m aware, the flexible only goes to the top of the existing flue.. and I know I need a few extra feet for draft.

Yes you need to break out thevexisting clay. And regardless of the type of liner if you are going to extend it that extension needs to be done out of class a chimney not liner.

 

[bholler]

You have to drill screw holes just the right size for the screws to go in easily, yet not too big, so that they hold well. Stainless screws, which I think came with the liner.

What liner system was that every one i have used called for rivets not screws.

 

[Woody Stover]

What liner system was that every one i have used called for rivets not screws.

Oh yeah, that's right, it was stainless rivets.

 

[Woody Stover]

It was Heat-Fab 304.

 

[Louis]

Yes you need to break out thevexisting clay. And regardless of the type of liner if you are going to extend it that extension needs to be done out of class a chimney not liner.

I didn’t realize the liner wasn’t allowed to come out of the existing chimney as an extension.. that kind of ruins the whole plan lol. I thought I had done more research then I needed but will need to get back to looking more into it. Nothing I came across mentioned class a pipe being the only thing that is allowable to use, outside of the chimney. and I’m not calling your bluff, just surprised is all. Thought I’ve seen numerous builds with the liner extending a few feet out of the existing chimney, now I’ll have to re check and see if what I saw was decieiving. Thank you.

 

[Louis]

We used rigid at my BIL's house, four-4' sections to get down to the smoke chamber, then a couple elbows, pipe and tee to a rear-vent stove.
We used the top-clamp to hold the dangling chimney while we added the next section to the top, wrapped it in pre-fabbed 1/2" insulation sections, then lowered and repeated. I don't remember exactly how we did it..mighta had a couple of vise-grips on the top edge of the just-added section as well, for lowering the dangling chimney once we loosened the top clamp, then lowered and re-clamped. Easier with a couple guys..

That’s how I would’ve done the install as well, using the top clamp and going section by section. But for as much research as I felt I have done, I didn’t realize I wasn’t able to extend the liner a few feet out of the existing chimney to gain height. Changes the plans a bit. Thanks for your reply.

 

[bholler]

I didn’t realize the liner wasn’t allowed to come out of the existing chimney as an extension.. that kind of ruins the whole plan lol. I thought I had done more research then I needed but will need to get back to looking more into it. Nothing I came across mentioned class a pipe being the only thing that is allowable to use, outside of the chimney. and I’m not calling your bluff, just surprised is all. Thought I’ve seen numerous builds with the liner extending a few feet out of the existing chimney, now I’ll have to re check and see if what I saw was decieiving. Thank you.

You can use rigid to extend it. But it gives you really poor results. Without insulation that peice is a creosote magnet

 

[Louis]

I know I’m dealing with a slightly larger flue then needed for the stove I have.. it’s also a mason chimney lined with clay so it stays much cooler then a SS liner would be, of course.

From where the stove pipe goes into the thimble and makes that 90° to starts it’s ascend up the chimney I believe I have 14 foot to the top of the last clay tile out the chimney. With the installation of a SS liner being able to heat up faster, hold that heat, and would indeed increase my draft... would height still need to be added or is that one of those questions where I won’t have an answer for until I do it and see how everything goes.

 

[Louis]

You can use rigid to extend it. But it gives you really poor results. Without insulation that peice is a creosote magnet

Is it an option to add class a pipe to the rigid liner? The extra 2-3 feet out the chimney where it would be exposed.

 

[Woody Stover]

I didn’t realize I wasn’t able to extend the liner a few feet out of the existing chimney to gain height.

How much height do you have from stove top to the top of the chimney, and what stove will you be running?

 

[bholler]

Is it an option to add class a pipe to the rigid liner? The extra 2-3 feet out the chimney where it would be exposed.

Absolutely or it could be added above flex as well either works

 

[Louis]

How much height do you have from stove top to the top of the chimney, and what stove will you be running?

Englander 30-nch
On the pedestal.. wondering if the 6 inch legs would drop it any further closer to the floor.. 9 inch legs came with the stove.

And my set up is kind of awkward.. who ever build the chimney put the thimble quite low. As the stove sits it has only a very short run until it hits a 45° angle to a two foot straight section into another 45 going into the thimble/chimney. About 3.5 feet from stove top to wall. Very terrible set up but unfortunately have to work with it for now. Bought the house in March of 2018.

 

[Louis]

Absolutely or it could be added above flex as well either works

Hope this isn’t a dumb question, but what would be used to connect the two different peices.. would I connect the liner the terra-cotta top plate that you would seal and screw to the clay tile and then add the class a to that? If so, how would that attach I’d imagine the class a would be completely different mounting wise from liner parts

 

[bholler]

Hope this isn’t a dumb question, but what would be used to connect the two different peices.. would I connect the liner the terra-cotta top plate that you would seal and screw to the clay tile and then add the class a to that? If so, how would that attach I’d imagine the class a would be completely different mounting wise from liner parts

A transition anchor plate.